Cut veneered boards

[grogg]

I will need to cut a large number of veneered boards into smaller pieces, about 100x50mm. The boards are approximately 3mm thick with maple veneer on both sides. It is important that the cuts are clean without any chips or similar on the edges, neither on the top nor the bottom side. "Exact" measurements +-1 mm. No post-processing like sanding should be required.
What saw should be used for this? Can you stack several boards on top of each other and cut them at the same time to save time? There are over a hundred boards in total.
If I'm not going to do it myself, what type of company could I hire for the job? Furniture workshop? Any tips on what to search for or if anyone knows of a company or individual in or around Örebro County.

 

[Svante Svenson]

A sacrificial board underneath and then a good plunge saw on a rail will solve this, but it won't be super fast. It will be quicker with a table saw that you build a sled for. Regardless, you need to have the correct saw blade and it must be really sharp.

 

[grogg]

A sacrificial board underneath and then a good plunge saw on a track will solve this, but it won't be super fast. It will be faster with a table saw that you build a sled for. Either way, you need to have the correct saw blade and it must be really sharp.

Thank you for the answer! What does the correct saw blade mean in this case, and do you have any examples of a suitable table saw?

 

[prototypen]

Svante has probably turned the sacrificial board upside down, even a plunge saw mostly cuts upwards. Correct saw blade, fine-toothed and sharp. Tear-out on one side is almost impossible to avoid.

Fine table saws have existed, a small blade before the normal one that rotates the other way, cutting a shallow groove to keep the fibers together.

Protte

 

[Bernieberg]

Water jet cutting came to mind. Would yield a prime result but I don't know what it might cost. Cheaper than a premium table saw anyway.

 

[Svante Svenson]

Svante has probably turned the sacrificial board upside down, even a plunge saw usually kicks upwards.
Protte

No. I count on the rubber strip on the rail to counteract upward kicks.

 

[Svante Svenson]

Thank you for your response! What does the correct saw blade mean in this case, and do you have an example of a suitable table saw?

The correct saw blade is fine-toothed, sharp as heck, and clean. I don't have examples of suitable table saws. I would go so far as to say almost anything with good tracks will work. Tracks that the sled you need to build should run in, that is. Without a sled, I would say it's hopeless on a table saw (at least if you're not going to spend a fortune).

 

[prototypen]

No. For upward cuts, I count on the rubber strip on the rail to counteract.

On one side yes, but what about to the right of the blade?

Protte

 

[Svante Svenson]

On one side yes, but to the right of the blade then?

Protte

That side I thought you would discard. So first you rough cut and then bring it down to the exact measure and discard the difference.

 

[grogg]

Thanks for all the answers!
It will probably have to be water cutting instead of sawing to get the best finish.

 

[Bernieberg]

Would be interesting to know what you have to pay for it? I'm in contact with the method partly at work but then it's series-produced machine parts, so I don't have a good sense of the price for a little wooden puzzle