Ytong floor slab best solution ?

[MackanM]

Hello

Sitting and thinking about what is best to attach the wooden floor joist to in a stone house made of ytong?

1. Attach with joist hangers directly to the ytong
2. As above but against a glulam beam along the entire floor
3. Build it in so that it rests on the top of floor 1? It will rain on it and is really not a good idea?

 

[bossespecial]

Check this document, maybe there is a suitable detail you are looking for.

 

[MackanM]

Check this document, maybe there is a suitable detail you are looking for.

Link or file?

 

[bossespecial]

Ahh, forgot the link..
https://www.xella.se/se/docs/DETAJLER_BROCHURE_00.pdf

 

[rävlyan]

If you use a joist hanger, it will prevent dirt and rot in the wood, unlike when the wood lies against the foundation; there will be a small gap in between. The joist hanger is best attached with this type as long as possible, scroll a bit and you'll see www.k-rauta.se/byggvaruhus/search/skruv-och-plugg#!a=list:0,ads_f14514_ntk_cs%253A%2522Ja%2522

 

[MackanM]

If you use joist hangers, it will prevent dirt and rot in the timber, as opposed to when wood rests directly on the foundation. It creates a small gap, and the joist hanger is best attached with this type as long as possible, scroll a bit and you will see
www.k-rauta.se/byggvaruhus/search/skruv-och-plugg#!a=list:0,ads_f14514_ntk_cs%253A%2522Ja%2522

I'll check it out now. Thanks, I'll get back to you!

 

[MackanM]

If you use a joist hanger, it will prevent dirt and rot in the wood, unlike when the wood rests directly on the foundation. There will be a slight gap, and the joist hanger is best fixed with this type and as long as possible, scroll a bit to see
www.k-rauta.se/byggvaruhus/search/skruv-och-plugg#!a=list:0,ads_f14514_ntk_cs%253A%2522Ja%2522

Then, do you attach the joist hanger directly to the wall? Should the wall be reinforced with something like a u-block with rebar around it like a ring?

 

[bossespecial]

Much depends on the loads that need to be taken up from the bjälklaget. A solution where the bjälklaget rests on top of the wall is probably the best.

 

[rävlyan]

It's going to rain on it and it's really stupid, isn't it?

You mention rain, then a lot of debris (That dirt is of a microformat) from the sky will settle in between and maybe never dry up since the wall absorbs a bit. It's fine to attach directly into the lightweight concrete with long 150 mm ones of that type; the goal is to reach as deep into the wall as possible, that's where the pull-out strength lies. Lightweight concrete has the tendency to create a crater in, due to the constant pressure from the plug, the load will go straight down along the wall, and the plug/screw will take care of it. Just think about it, dandelions grow straight through asphalt, where there is constant pressure working.

 

[MackanM]

You say rain, then a lot of boss (That crap is in microformat) comes from the sky and settles in between and maybe never dries up since the wall absorbs a little. It's fine to attach directly into the aerated concrete with long 150 mm of that sort; the goal is to get as far into the wall as possible, that's where the pulling force is, aerated concrete has a tendency to crack a crater in due to the constant pressure from the plug, the load will go straight down along the wall and the plug/screw will handle it. Just think, the dandelion goes straight through asphalt, there is constant pressure working there.

Yes, you preferably want to avoid an ugly problem. Then of course you need to check if it can handle the load. But it might be even better with a ring of concrete to lock the first floor and for stability's sake.

 

[rävlyan]

You see better on site what you can imagine, difficult at a distance. If there should be any concrete answer, you should have the parts in front of you, but a little info here and common sense and thought usually work well.

If the load goes straight down, it can withstand a lot. I got the impression that the lines should go straight out and the floor on them, or a load-bearing structure.
600 C/C on top and floor on that.

 

[MackanM]

You see better on site what you might consider, it's difficult from a distance. If there should be a concrete answer, one should have the parts in front of them, but a little info here and common sense and thought usually turn out well. If the load is straight down, it can take a lot. I got the impression that the lines are to go straight out and the floor on them, or a support structure. 600 C/C on top and floor on that

Hi

My designer will be involved next week and he doesn't think we should use beam shoes. Instead, he wants them to rest on the wall.

I can attach the drawing if it would be of any use?

 

[rävlyan]

Rest on the wall, not really there, is there a ledge to rest on then or should you cast something up, if I haven’t missed something, it is a nuisance to attach any organic material directly against a foundation and there will be moisture there.
Then it is not tight and dirt will accumulate between the materials and the wall, if you are going to do something similar, there should be a distance of about 2 cm between the timber and the foundation/wall so it can ventilate out.

 

[MackanM]

Rest on the wall, not really there, is there a ledge to rest on then or will you have to cast something up, if I haven't missed something it's a bad practice to attach any organic material directly to a foundation as it will get damp there. Then it is not sealed, and dirt will accumulate between the material and the wall. If you are going to do something like that, there should be a distance of about 2 cm between the timber and the foundation/wall so it vents.

Like the link but ytong

 

[rävlyan]

The thoughts might be two-fold here, new bjälklag, if it's indoors that we're talking about, then I'm on board, but you should ensure that the wood can't get wet, as it will become soft over time.