Wood flour - where to buy?

[Andreas12345]

I need to buy wood flour, meaning very finely divided wood. Where can one buy it?

 

[eddie_bergh]

Shouldn't sawmills have that?

 

[Nimajneb]

I can send my full vacuum cleaner bag for postage

Joking aside, check with a carpentry workshop that does a lot of sanding.

What do you need it for?

 

[Andreas12345]

I need to repair a worn wooden floor. I got a tip that you could mix with (old-fashioned) varnish to create a paste that hardens.

 

[Helioz]

I need to repair a worn wooden floor. I got a tip that you could mix with (old-fashioned) varnish to create a paste that becomes hard.

Use Ages spackel instead, it's incredibly good for these types of repairs:
http://www.slojd-detaljer.se/katego...ing-lim/spackel-fyllning/ages-spackel-pid1599

Water-based, doesn't sink, no priming needed, dries quickly, available in several colors.
http://www.theofils.se/product.aspx?prodfamid=70300050

 

[Andreas12345]

Thanks for the tip about Ages spackel. But if you're going to fill gaps between, for example, floorboards, it becomes very expensive. By the way, at Theofils, private individuals aren't allowed to shop, right?

 

[Helioz]

Thanks for the tip about Ages putty. But if you're going to fill the gaps between, for example, floorboards, it becomes very expensive. Moreover, aren't private individuals not allowed to shop at Theofils?

The cracks between the floorboards should not be filled with any form of hardening putty at all. There you must use caulking compound that is flexible so it can move when the boards expand and dry over the year. Biltema has the cheapest:
http://biltema.se/sv/Bat/Kemikalier/Tatning-och-Natning/Natmassa-254706/

 

[Andreas12345]

You should not fill the cracks between the boards with any form of hardening filler. There you must use caulking compound that is flexible so it can move when the boards expand and contract over the year. Biltema has the cheapest:
[link]

Hm. Yes, I've heard that too. But I also know people who have used lacquer or possibly wood glue together with wood flour and filled in the gaps.

 

[Helioz]

Hm. Yes, I've heard that too. But I also know people who have used varnish or possibly wood glue together with wood flour to fill in the gaps.

Just keep in mind that the gaps in the floor have arisen due to the large movements in the planks, which will continue in the future. If you still want to try with wood flour (it may certainly last a couple of years), use a waterproof wood glue, otherwise you'll have problems when scrubbing.

 

[Andreas12345]

But how does it work with varnishing if you use joint compound? It explicitly states that you should not varnish over it?

Besides, in this thread

https://www.flashback.org/t956128

someone recommends a "special glue." What kind of glue could that be? I tried regular wood glue with sanding dust and it worked, but it sank a lot and took a very long time to dry. I've also tried latex caulk. Worked pretty well if the gaps weren't too large, then it cracked over time.

How does it work with sanding dust and tar?

 

[Helioz]

But how does it work with the varnishing if you use caulking compound? It explicitly states that you shouldn't varnish over it?

Furthermore, in this thread

[link]

someone recommends a "special glue." What kind of glue could that be? I tried regular wood glue with sanding dust and it worked, but it sank a lot and took a very long time to dry. I have also tried latex sealant. It worked quite well if the gaps weren't too big, then it cracked after a while.

How does it work with sanding dust and tar?

You mask the floor and caulk after varnishing. Alternatively, more expensive over-paintable caulking compounds like Bostik Simson MSR BC, Sikaflex 290-DC, or Novatech Tec7 are used. These are a combination of caulk and glue, which is also what's recommended in the flashback thread.

 

[Andreas12345]

But this thing with glue and sanding dust, has anyone tested other forms of glue, e.g. this one:

http://www.jula.se/spanplattelim-300ml-502070

 

[corre]

It's almost like PL400, with a little less solvent. Suspect that it becomes beige when it dries.

 

[Andreas12345]

The problem with regular wood glue is that it's completely impossible to sand. The last time I tried, I had to pour on methylated spirits, sand, and remove the excess with a putty knife. There must be some glue that can be sanded without turning into a sticky mess.