Well, that's great.
It feels like it's going to turn out really well.
Consider making the recess out of plaster, plaster angle in the corner, so it doesn't break easily, and then the same surface finish around the corner and into the recess as on the wall surface.
It feels like it's going to turn out really well.
Consider making the recess out of plaster, plaster angle in the corner, so it doesn't break easily, and then the same surface finish around the corner and into the recess as on the wall surface.
I think so too! It will probably be both quiet and soundless!
And in response to the original poster's question, my reason for using OSB is to avoid having to use anchors every time something needs to be mounted, since we'll have hooks on the wall, wall-mounted nightstands, wall lamps, etc. So there will be a lot of anchors, some of which would need to be molly bolts, and if you change your mind in the future, it's much easier to just dab some paintable sealant and touch it up than to try to plaster over mollys and make it look nice!
And in response to the original poster's question, my reason for using OSB is to avoid having to use anchors every time something needs to be mounted, since we'll have hooks on the wall, wall-mounted nightstands, wall lamps, etc. So there will be a lot of anchors, some of which would need to be molly bolts, and if you change your mind in the future, it's much easier to just dab some paintable sealant and touch it up than to try to plaster over mollys and make it look nice!
OSB or other wood material behind the drywall is mandatory in my opinion unless you're on a very tight budget. For me, it's about buying freedom from the irritation and extra work that arises in 80% of all hangings at home, as well as the afterwork when you move wall-mounted items.
We even install OSB in all the walls of every rental apartment we build nowadays. Besides the ease for the tenant when mounting various wall-hung items, we as builders/managers avoid dealing with all the holes in the wall when tenants move out.
We even install OSB in all the walls of every rental apartment we build nowadays. Besides the ease for the tenant when mounting various wall-hung items, we as builders/managers avoid dealing with all the holes in the wall when tenants move out.
Renovator
· Skåne/Blekinge
· 2 880 posts
If you renovate slightly older houses with solid wood walls, the plank walls are rarely straight. Then using a wood panel first helps incredibly much to even out the worst irregularities between the planes before attaching gypsum.
As this thread appeared as a suggestion for me, I can also respond. I use OSB sometimes where it's not so critical, boring boards that warp and splinter with relatively low load-bearing capacity. I do not consider OSB a good board for hanging heavier items on the wall; Plywood is much better but more expensive. I have also used particle board sometimes, especially in older houses where particle board was used previously. I can also use rough-sawn or rustic planks with or without tongue and groove, and it becomes a very durable wall that can withstand high loads. It's reasonably cheap to buy but involves a bit more work than boards. OSB is a bit of a lousy material, but it's reasonably cheap and quick.
Plyfa has the best tensile strength of the 3 mentioned board materials but not significantly higher than OSB. Chipboard has the worst tensile strength.
There is a link to the test or has at least existed here on Byggahus before.
There is a link to the test or has at least existed here on Byggahus before.
If you're going to put the boards on the ceiling, that's probably the case. Otherwise, I think chipboard and plyfa are closer to each other.
"Plyfa has the best tensile strength of the 3 mentioned board materials but not significantly higher than Osb. The worst of the board materials is chipboard."
"Plyfa has the best tensile strength of the 3 mentioned board materials but not significantly higher than Osb. The worst of the board materials is chipboard."
One more thing to keep in mind is that all materials should be pre-drilled with a slightly smaller drill than the screw to achieve maximum strength. Ignoring pre-drilling increases the risk of it being inferior, especially in particle board and OSB; plywood is nowhere near as at risk of splitting/splintering by a screw penetrating undrilled material.
I use OSB behind the drywall at home, and I haven't pre-drilled any fastenings so far, but if I were to put up something requiring around 50 kg/fastening, I would probably consider it.
I use OSB behind the drywall at home, and I haven't pre-drilled any fastenings so far, but if I were to put up something requiring around 50 kg/fastening, I would probably consider it.
It looks insanely good with a 65^ OLED on the wall if done right, and sometimes you can completely skip the TV furniture or just go for something discreet.
Bought a house from the Bailiff this year. A decent hole in the wall was at the bottom of the stairs. According to the neighbors, things got a bit wild in the house leading up to an inevitable separation. Whether it was him or her trying to push out the outer wall was not revealed, as I felt the question was out of place when I met him during the handover of the house. I should add that we got along very well, as I've mentioned here before. But as I said... a bit of sturdy OSB, might have solved the wall's durability, the question is how it would have ended for the one who -at the time- constituted the missile.
That was a clever tip!B Boan said:
But how did you attach the board to the studs?
--Anders
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Good to mount everything that should be installed on the walls.Ola78 said:
One reason you must have extra board material behind is that the wall will not be sufficiently twist-stable otherwise to handle any loads. Plus, if you have a harder board behind the drywall, the wall can withstand an impact better, such as an angry teenager punching the wall......yes, I know, that is probably not a good example
If you know what you're doing and use the right plugs, etc., it works quite well to attach things to pure drywall. But if you don't know the thickness, or if there's a stud behind it or you're going to hang something heavy, it can be tricky.
I was helping my sister put up some things in her new apartment, and the hanger for her 8-year-old's clothes fell down after a week, even though I used wall plugs, the right size screw, etc. A coat rack with molly bolts is another classic that tends to fall down after a few years.
If the load is even, drywall holds up quite well, for example, a TV hanging in the same spot. But if you pull and tug a bit, like with a coat hanger or coat rack, drywall isn't as good.
I chose to put OSB behind the drywall, and it's so easy to just tap in a small nail for a picture or a couple of screws for the TV, and I know it will hold. For me, it was definitely worth the extra work and money.
/N
I was helping my sister put up some things in her new apartment, and the hanger for her 8-year-old's clothes fell down after a week, even though I used wall plugs, the right size screw, etc. A coat rack with molly bolts is another classic that tends to fall down after a few years.
If the load is even, drywall holds up quite well, for example, a TV hanging in the same spot. But if you pull and tug a bit, like with a coat hanger or coat rack, drywall isn't as good.
I chose to put OSB behind the drywall, and it's so easy to just tap in a small nail for a picture or a couple of screws for the TV, and I know it will hold. For me, it was definitely worth the extra work and money.
/N
I've changed my mind a bit when it comes to fastening in drywall, it's not really a problem. But honestly, I think a wall feels more solid and substantial if you have OSB or Plywood behind it. Preferably on a wooden stud and, of course, with insulation in the wall. But this is not a structural argument, more of a form of aesthetics. You don't win any competitions by building what holds the most. As long as it holds and follows building codes, you don't need to overdo it for the sake of the construction.