If you read the forum, it seems that basically everyone here is putting up OSB boards behind the drywall in the walls and dissing the catalog companies' walls. It naturally feels a bit more "solid" with OSB and I understand that it makes it easier to put up shelves. But when I think about my own current home (simple drywall everywhere - big construction company naturally built the house), I haven't really suffered from it that I can think of.
Are there any more technical construction reasons to add a layer of OSB? It does seem like quite a lot of extra work and a large cost, which you want to minimize when building a house. At the same time, you absolutely don't want it to feel like some kind of shoddy construction.
Are there any more technical construction reasons to add a layer of OSB? It does seem like quite a lot of extra work and a large cost, which you want to minimize when building a house. At the same time, you absolutely don't want it to feel like some kind of shoddy construction.
The entire wall becomes more stable.
You never have to worry about where and how you will mount something when it comes to fastening.
It's only when the last row is calculated that it might be good not to use OSB and only use gypsum.
If you are building for yourself, do yourself a favor and use OSB.
You never have to worry about where and how you will mount something when it comes to fastening.
It's only when the last row is calculated that it might be good not to use OSB and only use gypsum.
If you are building for yourself, do yourself a favor and use OSB.
One reason you must have additional sheathing material behind is that otherwise the wall won't be sufficiently torsionally stable to withstand potential loads. Then there's the fact that if you have a harder sheet behind the gypsum, the wall can withstand an impact better, for example, an angry teenager punching the wall......yeah, I know, it's probably not a good example
Could it be because now you "have to" hang a large and heavy flat-screen TV on the wall in every roombjolo360 said:
In the past, the TV stood stable on the floor, and on the wall, you put up posters from Mallorca and photos of the kids.
Everyone arranges according to their own taste, so the only sure thing is to reinforce all the walls
Yes, it is. My teenager's wall had two large holes from fists that I had to fix before we moved.Ola78 said:Then, if you have a harder board behind the plaster, the wall can withstand a punch better, for example, an angry teenager punching the wall... yeah I know, it's probably not a good example
Or like when an acquaintance tripped over their dog and fell into the wall. When those 130kg landed against the wall, it created a sizable hole...Ola78 said:One reason you must have extra paneling behind is that the wall will not be sufficiently rigid otherwise to handle any loads. Then, of course, if you have a harder panel behind the plasterboard, the wall can withstand an impact better, for example, an angry teenager punching the wall...yes, I know, it's probably not a good example
Hmmm, because everyone else is doing it???
I have no will of my own...
Anyway:
* Better soundproofing between rooms (but you also need better doors than standard doors and rubber seals to really benefit from the better wall)
* Easy to attach anything anywhere.
* Nicer and more solid "feel" in the wall, sounds solid and massive instead of like a drum if you bump into it.
* Lots of fun to get a bunch of splinters in your fingers when you're putting the stuff up.
Uh, yeah, that last one wasn't a good argument.
I've also built with 45x45mm studs and then OSB+drywall, and it's still really good, I don't know what 45x45 + only drywall would have resulted in.
*laughter* What a sight, I have a dog myself but only weigh 85 kg but it's not just plaster on the walls so they can probably take a hit. Though I'm more worried about tripping over one of the cats than the dog, he has the sense to move out of the way at leastoobum said:
I skipped OSB and used 22mm tongue and groove chipboard flooring instead. I thought it was quite stable even though I cheated and didn't glue the tongue and groove The most stable wall is built from one room to the other: 13mm floor plasterboard, 22mm chipboard flooring, 13mm floor plasterboard, original raw chipboard, original 3" stud with 70mm insulation, 22mm chipboard flooring, 22mm chipboard flooring, and 13mm floor plasterboard. It might seem a bit excessive and with a strange order of materials, but there was tretex before and the chimney is next to it, so I needed to build up 13mm. Then there's the wall between the future computer room, which also has a balcony and could get a bit noisy with the right/wrong sort of people visiting , and the future bedroom. I could have made the wall even thicker without it affecting the functionality of the bedroom since the layout is as it is right by that wall, but I thought it was enough. Everything will still be compensated by the ventilation system and cheap Byggmax doors. A completely new wall was built elsewhere and is made in the same way. 13mm plasterboard, 22mm chipboard, 45x95 stud and 95mm insulation, 22mm chipboard, 13mm plasterboard. I didn't think it became overly stable actually, so a wall built with just plasterboard and 45x45, I don't know about and it's nothing I want in my house. Now, of course, one isn't supposed to spend their days standing and hitting the walls to see what happens, but still.
As for using floor materials on walls and ceilings, it relates to having a narrow 180° staircase and having to carry everything up myself. I don't think it would have been easier with help either. I definitely couldn't have gotten a sheet of 1200x2500 up there without taking the roof off the house.
The most stable wall is built from one room to the other: 13mm floor plasterboard, 22mm chipboard flooring, 13mm floor plasterboard, original raw chipboard, original 3" stud with 70mm insulation, 22mm chipboard flooring, 22mm chipboard flooring, and 13mm floor plasterboard. It might seem a bit excessive and with a strange order of materials, but there was tretex before and the chimney is next to it, so I needed to build up 13mm. Then there's the wall between the future computer room, which also has a balcony and could get a bit noisy with the right/wrong sort of people visiting , and the future bedroom. I could have made the wall even thicker without it affecting the functionality of the bedroom since the layout is as it is right by that wall, but I thought it was enough. Everything will still be compensated by the ventilation system and cheap Byggmax doors. A completely new wall was built elsewhere and is made in the same way. 13mm plasterboard, 22mm chipboard, 45x95 stud and 95mm insulation, 22mm chipboard, 13mm plasterboard. I didn't think it became overly stable actually, so a wall built with just plasterboard and 45x45, I don't know about and it's nothing I want in my house. Now, of course, one isn't supposed to spend their days standing and hitting the walls to see what happens, but still.As for using floor materials on walls and ceilings, it relates to having a narrow 180° staircase and having to carry everything up myself. I don't think it would have been easier with help either. I definitely couldn't have gotten a sheet of 1200x2500 up there without taking the roof off the house.
A large heavy flat TV is something that a drywall can handle. A molly in drywall easily supports a TV, and usually, four screws are used for a TV. However, a bookshelf like Elfa with rails can weigh quite a bit. Kitchen cabinets (but there, you typically plan and place studs before covering the wall with paneling).
When I was building my house, I was also set on having OSB or particle board behind the drywall "because it is good." My supervising architect asked what exactly I planned to hang that required it. I couldn't think of any example. In my construction, it ended up being a mix, with particle board behind load-bearing walls and those meant to bear forces. Walls that at most will hold up a picture have only drywall. I think it's been a good compromise without feeling like I've skimped.
Does anyone know which wall can bear the greatest load: one with a 45 stud and OSB+drywall or one with a 70 stud and drywall? (I don't know the answer).
When I was building my house, I was also set on having OSB or particle board behind the drywall "because it is good." My supervising architect asked what exactly I planned to hang that required it. I couldn't think of any example. In my construction, it ended up being a mix, with particle board behind load-bearing walls and those meant to bear forces. Walls that at most will hold up a picture have only drywall. I think it's been a good compromise without feeling like I've skimped.
Does anyone know which wall can bear the greatest load: one with a 45 stud and OSB+drywall or one with a 70 stud and drywall? (I don't know the answer).
My perception as an amateur is that OSB is used to convince buyers that the entire house is of high quality. If a seller can just say that there is raw plank in the outer roof and OSB in the walls, a buyer automatically believes that the whole house is of high quality
I will also build with OSB myself, but only so that the house will be easier to sell one day. This is despite the fact that I personally don't think it's worth the extra cost/labor just to be able to easily hang heavy things on the walls. It's better to plan the walls with extra studs where needed.
Mikael_L - do you really build the walls with 45*45mm? Then I understand why you need OSB.
/Krister
I will also build with OSB myself, but only so that the house will be easier to sell one day. This is despite the fact that I personally don't think it's worth the extra cost/labor just to be able to easily hang heavy things on the walls. It's better to plan the walls with extra studs where needed.
Mikael_L - do you really build the walls with 45*45mm? Then I understand why you need OSB.
/Krister
I don't install OSB to hang heavy things, but to completely avoid the annoying Molly fixings ....
I have some walls with 45x45, but I wanted the wall against the stairs to be steadier, as it might help to brace and avoid creaking in the stairs, so there I used 45x70. All interior walls around the bathroom and then two load-bearing interior walls also have 45x70.
So actually, there weren't that many walls with 45x45.
But I won't hesitate to have all walls in the upper floor except the bathroom with 45x45.
I have some walls with 45x45, but I wanted the wall against the stairs to be steadier, as it might help to brace and avoid creaking in the stairs, so there I used 45x70. All interior walls around the bathroom and then two load-bearing interior walls also have 45x70.
So actually, there weren't that many walls with 45x45.
But I won't hesitate to have all walls in the upper floor except the bathroom with 45x45.
Or maybe it's the opposite, thanks to the OSB, I can settle with 45x45.Krille4 said:
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Classic hot topic for this forum: what type of board do you put behind the drywall (if you need it at all)? Always fun every time.
Råspont
Plywood
Particleboard
OSB
I have OSB as floor protection and general protection during the construction period. Then I throw them away at the dump. Hard to burn them in the fireplace with so much glue and wax in the material.
Behind the drywall, I have glued 12mm particleboard from Byggelit. Just as strong as OSB and the walls become more stable by gluing them, even on the short sides. You can straighten crooked studs with gluing. Particleboards are dimensionally stable and can therefore be glued.
The strength of the attachments is essentially as strong as OSB, but requires proper pre-drilling. Not as easy to make it good and strong. Plywood and råspont are superior in this context.
OSB is probably the most environmentally friendly since it is made from all the waste leftovers from wood production, such as roots, small branches, and other things. Additionally, around 5% glue and surface wax.
3...2...1...here come the counterarguments
Råspont
Plywood
Particleboard
OSB
I have OSB as floor protection and general protection during the construction period. Then I throw them away at the dump. Hard to burn them in the fireplace with so much glue and wax in the material.
Behind the drywall, I have glued 12mm particleboard from Byggelit. Just as strong as OSB and the walls become more stable by gluing them, even on the short sides. You can straighten crooked studs with gluing. Particleboards are dimensionally stable and can therefore be glued.
The strength of the attachments is essentially as strong as OSB, but requires proper pre-drilling. Not as easy to make it good and strong. Plywood and råspont are superior in this context.
OSB is probably the most environmentally friendly since it is made from all the waste leftovers from wood production, such as roots, small branches, and other things. Additionally, around 5% glue and surface wax.
3...2...1...here come the counterarguments
OSB is a cheap disposable board, not intended for any permanent structures but for temporary use during the construction period. With råspont, you avoid glue and mess that can emit gases. I remember how it smelled like chipboard glue on the upper floor of the townhouse I grew up in during the 70s, chipboard in walls and ceiling.