Hello,
I have a house built in the mid-60s, 1966 according to the documents.
I'm in the process of renovating a bit in the basement and am wondering what type of plaster I have there.
I found a building description that I don't quite understand, maybe you can translate it for me.
I'm in the process of removing old paint so I can paint with silicate paint (that's the plan right now), but in the process, the surface becomes quite uneven. Therefore, I want to apply a thin layer of plaster.

What type of plaster do I have (inside) and
What type of plaster would be good for a thin repair layer?

Best regards

Bonus question, the paint that is on dissolves with water, does it need to be completely removed before the silicate paint?
 
  • Construction plan text showing plaster details for a 1960s house, including types of mortar and insulation methods for inner and outer foundation walls.
Claes Sörmland
You have a plaster consisting of lime-cement (KC), a mixture of lime and cement. I interpret "11/3" as 11 parts aggregate (sand) and 3 parts lime-cement.

If you are going to replaster, it might be easiest to follow the same recipe now. For example, buy:

https://www.finja.se/produkter/7818_7842_7843_7844/kalkcement-c
 
Claes Sörmland Claes Sörmland said:
You have a plaster consisting of lime cement (KC), a mix of lime and cement. I interpret "11/3" as 11 parts aggregate (sand) and 3 parts lime cement.

If you're going to re-plaster, it might be easiest to follow the same recipe now if you are going to re-plaster. Buy, for example:

[link]
Thanks for the quick answer, I see that you link to the raw material for mixing yourself.
Is this one that is pre-mixed suitable?
https://www.bauhaus.se/putsbruk-c
 
Slurry below ground outside is 11/3 while plaster is 21/4, hence weaker.
 
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Claes Sörmland
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Stefan N Stefan N said:
Slurry below ground outside is 11/3 plaster is 21/4, so weaker.
Can one assume that the internal and external plaster is the same mixture?
 
Claes Sörmland
bus_pojken bus_pojken said:
Thanks for the quick response, I see you link to the raw material for self-mixing. Is this one, for example, suitable as a ready-mixed option? [link]
I am not sure what this product contains. A KC-bruk contains slaked lime, cement, and sand. The common mortars today, unless you specifically buy "KC-bruk," contain murkalk (cement mixed with limestone flour) and sand, i.e., they lack the slaked lime.
 
Claes Sörmland Claes Sörmland said:
I am unsure what this product contains. A KC mortar contains slaked lime, cement, and sand. The common mortars today, unless you specifically purchase "KC mortar," contain masonry lime (cement mixed with limestone flour) and sand; that is, they lack the slaked lime.
According to the safety data sheet
 
  • Safety data sheet showing composition of materials: ballast, Portland cement, and calcium hydroxide, with identifiers, classifications, and content percentages.
Claes Sörmland
bus_pojken bus_pojken said:
According to the safety data sheet

A KC-mortar! 17/3.
 
Does this also adhere to small remnants of paint, or does it need to be completely clean plaster?
 
bus_pojken bus_pojken said:
Bonus question, the paint that's on dissolves with water, does it have to be completely removed before the silicate paint?
The question is whether your walls will be dry in the future?
If not and you apply mortar. Will it last in the future?
Is it an old lime paint.
 
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