Hello,
Perhaps my question is more related to crafts, but I'll ask it anyway. We have an older cast iron bench where the slats need to be replaced. The new ones we bought turn out to be too short, but they are of excellent timber and beveled to fit the mounting points on the bench. I have an extra slat which means I can splice the outermost slat and, so to speak, move the others one notch inward on the seat, which would make them fit in terms of length since the bench's width narrows slightly toward the back.
My question concerns which splice is sensible to use. The slat is 35x25 mm. I can place the splice over a support, about 20mm wide, located in the middle of the bench, where all slats are intended to be fastened from underneath. What I am looking for is a joint that is both strong and as invisible as possible. Do you have any thoughts?
Best regards and thanks in advance/Erik
Perhaps my question is more related to crafts, but I'll ask it anyway. We have an older cast iron bench where the slats need to be replaced. The new ones we bought turn out to be too short, but they are of excellent timber and beveled to fit the mounting points on the bench. I have an extra slat which means I can splice the outermost slat and, so to speak, move the others one notch inward on the seat, which would make them fit in terms of length since the bench's width narrows slightly toward the back.
My question concerns which splice is sensible to use. The slat is 35x25 mm. I can place the splice over a support, about 20mm wide, located in the middle of the bench, where all slats are intended to be fastened from underneath. What I am looking for is a joint that is both strong and as invisible as possible. Do you have any thoughts?
Best regards and thanks in advance/Erik
Hello and thank you for your answers. The rib should be painted white. So if I clamp together the two ribs I want to join into one and make a diagonal cut that is 5x the dimension, glue it, sand it, and paint it, it should turn out well? With reservation for my execution, of course.
I will screw with a short wood screw from underneath into the brace that the sofa has. Is the joint strengthened or weakened if I insert a dowel vertically through the joint?
I will screw with a short wood screw from underneath into the brace that the sofa has. Is the joint strengthened or weakened if I insert a dowel vertically through the joint?
I've heard ten times the thickness as a rule of thumb for the length of the scarf joint, but it might be strong enough even with five times. However, you should not glue on the saw cut. The surface should be planed or sanded completely smooth. If you place blocks covered with plastic on either side of the scarf joint and press with multiple clamps, you can achieve good pressure across the entire surface. Wooden dowels will weaken it, but it might be worthwhile to drive in a couple of small nails to hold the parts in place when you tighten the clamps. If you glue with polyurethane glue, it withstands moisture quite well.
When I trained to become a boat builder, we used different factors depending on which side of the plank it was. A plank on a small boat is typically 20x100mm, if we scarfed so that the beveled joint was visible on the 100mm side, we multiplied by 100x 5-6, and if we scarfed so the bevel was visible on the 20mm side multiplied by 20x 8-10.