Does anyone know where to buy this type of fence post with milled grooves?
A white wooden balcony with a post featuring grooves, highlighted in red, on a house facade.
 
Saw that there are ready-made posts from jabo but it cost 600:- or so. If you have a hand router, it's easy to fix if you buy a regular glued laminated post. You can probably get 3 posts for the same price if you do it yourself. If you don't have a hand router, you can probably rent one. Use chamfer router bit, I think it's called, it's simple and goes fast (y)
 
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Kludden33
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What router should be used for this?
 
Is it allowed to link to different pages on this forum? Otherwise, Google handöverfräs and a lot of options will come up. It might be a bit expensive to buy one just for fixing a few posts, but you can do a lot of fun things with a handöverfräs. Otherwise, as mentioned, rent one. Also, Google fasfräs, and an option with a ball bearing will come up. If you use one of those, you can't go wrong.
 
Yes, of course you can link
 
Okay, I'll buy it but the milling looks quite wide and deep in the picture I took, does it work?
 
U
R Rolle85 said:
Ok, I get that, but the milling looks quite wide and deep in the picture I took, does it work?
are the posts you photographed your own? Then you can measure the chamfer and buy a milling cutter with the right dimension. The linked chamfer cutter has a working length of 15mm, which is the maximum width of the chamfered surface.
 
Sure, you just set the depth you want on the router itself and then you can experiment on something like a 45x95 to see what looks good to you. Once you know how far down the post you want the chamfered edge, you can either mark it out with a pencil and go freehand, but it's quite easy to accidentally go too far. Instead, you can take two pieces of wood to use as stops, fastening them with clamps. So if you, for example, want the chamfer to start 200mm up on the post, you fasten one piece there, and if you want it to end 150mm from the top of the post, fasten another piece there with a clamp. This way, it's not possible to accidentally go too far. Also worth noting is to try running the router from right to left and vice versa; you'll notice it goes much smoother in one direction, while in the other direction, the router almost wants to propel itself forward. Try it out, and you'll see which direction makes routing as easy as possible.
 
Aha great thanks for all the tips!
 
Sorry, I didn't initially understand what you meant when you asked if that milling tool works. But I think it should work; it's hard to see how much there is in the picture. Otherwise, you can go up in size as swetox wrote. Yeah, no worries, it's just fun to be able to help.
 
Trying to find a movie where they make posts and which router you should have!
 
Haven't found any where they make posts but here you can see how they work and if you click forward to 2:57, you will see what it looks like when you use such a tool. Then it's just the size of the chamfer you/you have to decide on and then find a tool that fits.
 
Are you wondering about the fräst stolparna? as if they have gradually flattened at the beginning and end freehand.
 
R Rolle85 said:
Are you wondering about the milled posts? like they've been gradually flattened at the beginning and end by freehand.
The shape of the groove becomes like that automatically when you stop/lift off the router; since the router bit is round when it spins, so to speak. So, just as written above, you simply run at full depth against a stop, stop, and then lift off. You gently 'back' into the start stop (to avoid any backlash due to incorrect router rotation versus the direction you're moving the router)...
 
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