Not necessarily.ZipLock said:
I have installed ceiling panels that are only attached to studs screwed into the ceiling.
The original poster probably shouldn't lower the ceiling much, just enough for the spotlights to fit.
And to connect to Mikael_L in comment #8:
Why not just glue studs to the ceiling. Done.
But I would use wooden studs. I might be a bit old-fashioned
PS
In commercial properties, ceiling panels are almost always attached to pendulums hung from the ceiling.
The only ones I know among the neighbors who have done anything have hired contractors. So the only way is to drill a big damn hole in the wall and look inside to find out what kind of material it is?:banghead: Should I send it for analysis in some lab too?
But seriously now; the part that consists only of porous material and where the wall is 10cm thick...how can you best attach there?
In other areas that seem a bit more solid...try to drill so you can use a 75mm anchor and screw with maybe...80mm? If drilling with a regular drill doesn't work, use a hammer drill?
But seriously now; the part that consists only of porous material and where the wall is 10cm thick...how can you best attach there?
In other areas that seem a bit more solid...try to drill so you can use a 75mm anchor and screw with maybe...80mm? If drilling with a regular drill doesn't work, use a hammer drill?
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I thought it was the ceiling where the attachment was supposed to happen.
But if it's a 10cm thick wall that's "hopeless" it might be a lightweight concrete wall then.
Because it really is a hopeless material.
It's faster to tear down the wall and build it up with a better material instead. almost ...
But if it's a 10cm thick wall that's "hopeless" it might be a lightweight concrete wall then.
Because it really is a hopeless material.
It's faster to tear down the wall and build it up with a better material instead.
almost ...That's a bit of bullshit. There are excellent fastening methods for light concrete walls that are as durable as fastenings in any other material.Mikael_L said:
What the TS probably encountered are thick layers of old porous plaster. Plaster is, however, a bit of a hopeless material to attach things to.
Reasonably, TS should look for underlying material that is of a type other than pure plaster and attach using an appropriate method to this.
Or glue...
How do I identify the material in this relatively thin part of the wall then? My drill goes in maybe 5 cm, but shouldn't that depth be enough if the total thickness is 10cm or just under? I'm worried that if the material is so porous and the wall not so thick, I might get a crack towards the bathroom if I drill further. It's just gray coming out, by the way. I've already (attempted) to attach the rail once and there was an old electric strip there before, so I probably won't get many more tries as the wall soon looks like it was pulled from World War II.
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If I haven't misunderstood the whole thing, the wall is indeed from World War II (1940s), so the appearance is correct in any case. But then it could very well be that the walls are built with a wooden framework of boards (spräckpanel) and then equipped with reed matting and plaster from the mentioned time. Then there's not much to do except reinforce the wall with OSB or hang from the ceiling.
haha yes true, I was also referring to the number of holes (bullet holes) but regardless with or without, it's from that period. Ok, yes exactly how they are constructed is anyone's guess. But could it be the same in this part that is against the bathroom? An interior wall right above the door to the bathroom? Shouldn't I have encountered wood when I drilled in 5cm?
. Ok, yes exactly how they are constructed is anyone's guess. But could it be the same in this part that is against the bathroom? An interior wall right above the door to the bathroom? Shouldn't I have encountered wood when I drilled in 5cm?
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should also be added that I have also gotten out orange/red 'dust' a bit further down on the same wall. So maybe brick for the first meter of the wall and then the remaining when the bathroom is adjacent on the other side is maybe just lättbetong then?
If I have problems with plaster walls, I usually do one of the following:
1. Drill with a drill bit that's too small - the hole always ends up being too big anyway. 5mm usually works for 6mm plugs, 6mm drill for 8mm plugs, and so on.
2. "Glue" the plug in. Drill the correct size for the hole. Blow out the hole and fill it with joint compound, mortar, or whatever paste you have available and press in the plug. Let dry. Screw in the screw.
3. Long screws. The plaster is always attached to something - if it's wood, drill into the wood and use long wood screws. If it's brick, drill so that the entire plug fits into the brick, insert the plug fully into the brick and use sufficiently long screws to properly expand the plug in place inside the wall.
None of these methods are by-the-book, but they work great for lighter fittings, cable clamps, etc.
If it's a brick wall and you're mounting something with a horizontal row of screws, you can bet on ending up exactly in the mortar between two rows of bricks. Moving the row of holes a couple of centimeters up or down solves that problem.
1. Drill with a drill bit that's too small - the hole always ends up being too big anyway. 5mm usually works for 6mm plugs, 6mm drill for 8mm plugs, and so on.
2. "Glue" the plug in. Drill the correct size for the hole. Blow out the hole and fill it with joint compound, mortar, or whatever paste you have available and press in the plug. Let dry. Screw in the screw.
3. Long screws. The plaster is always attached to something - if it's wood, drill into the wood and use long wood screws. If it's brick, drill so that the entire plug fits into the brick, insert the plug fully into the brick and use sufficiently long screws to properly expand the plug in place inside the wall.
None of these methods are by-the-book, but they work great for lighter fittings, cable clamps, etc.
If it's a brick wall and you're mounting something with a horizontal row of screws, you can bet on ending up exactly in the mortar between two rows of bricks. Moving the row of holes a couple of centimeters up or down solves that problem.
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Great with a concrete tip, thanks!
Now, this is about lowering a ceiling, and this is a track that will be attached to the wall, will it hold? What length of screw is recommended?
I don't think I quite understood point 2 above: "glue in the plug," do you mean to glue in the previously drilled "smaller" hole? Then drill the correct size, blow it clean, fill with filler, etc., and then insert the plug?
A thought: How does the expansion function of the plug work if you've previously glued in the drilled hole? Isn't the glue quite fixed; can it expand then?
Now, this is about lowering a ceiling, and this is a track that will be attached to the wall, will it hold? What length of screw is recommended?
I don't think I quite understood point 2 above: "glue in the plug," do you mean to glue in the previously drilled "smaller" hole? Then drill the correct size, blow it clean, fill with filler, etc., and then insert the plug?
A thought: How does the expansion function of the plug work if you've previously glued in the drilled hole? Isn't the glue quite fixed; can it expand then?
"Gluing" the plug is the method I most often use when I realize too late that the material where I needed to fasten a screw just turned to dust as soon as I used the drill. If I can't drill a new hole, there aren't many options—there's already an overly large hole where I want to screw. I usually fill the hole with putty or some kind of mortar. I simply use whatever I have on hand. Mortar tends to work best, but most things will do. Then I press the plug into the soft mortar/putty/... and let it dry. Then it's just a matter of screwing it in.
Whether this holds for your purpose—I have no idea. I live in a house from the twenties with very porous walls here and there, so I often don't have much choice. If it works, it works, and if it doesn't, I try again. But so far, I've never had to mount anything that someone risks getting hit in the head with.
There is indeed another product I have used with some success and that might work in your case, and that is nail plug. They grip quite deep into the wall, and you only need to hammer them in. So it doesn't matter if the plug can't be prevented from rotating initially. The downside of nail plugs is that they look quite bad, but if they are to be hidden under a ceiling, it doesn’t matter.
Whether this holds for your purpose—I have no idea. I live in a house from the twenties with very porous walls here and there, so I often don't have much choice. If it works, it works, and if it doesn't, I try again. But so far, I've never had to mount anything that someone risks getting hit in the head with.
There is indeed another product I have used with some success and that might work in your case, and that is nail plug. They grip quite deep into the wall, and you only need to hammer them in. So it doesn't matter if the plug can't be prevented from rotating initially. The downside of nail plugs is that they look quite bad, but if they are to be hidden under a ceiling, it doesn’t matter.
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how great, any tips on glue?
So if I understand correctly, one way to make it hold can be; drill first, blow it clean and inject glue, then insert the plug which also has glue. Install the rail and screw it in. Correct?
So if I understand correctly, one way to make it hold can be; drill first, blow it clean and inject glue, then insert the plug which also has glue. Install the rail and screw it in. Correct?
a thought, doesn't the whole point of the function of the plug disappear if you glue in the hole and plug?
There are a couple more tricks...
Try driving a screw without drilling and using anchors, a good screwdriver is recommended. If you have the hole and the anchor moves, you can place screws beside the anchor to secure it; with three screws, it usually holds pretty well.
A good glue is PL400, but make sure to have chemically pure gasoline to clean up any spills. If you air it, that is, apply glue, press together, pull apart, press together, and pull apart, and then press together again, it sets firmly. Casco Superfix and similar glues like Sika and others also work, they have a longer drying time and should have pressure applied for about a day.
/Kent
Try driving a screw without drilling and using anchors, a good screwdriver is recommended. If you have the hole and the anchor moves, you can place screws beside the anchor to secure it; with three screws, it usually holds pretty well.
A good glue is PL400, but make sure to have chemically pure gasoline to clean up any spills. If you air it, that is, apply glue, press together, pull apart, press together, and pull apart, and then press together again, it sets firmly. Casco Superfix and similar glues like Sika and others also work, they have a longer drying time and should have pressure applied for about a day.
/Kent