Is it possible to make your own attic/loft stairs? I've seen steel stairs made of steel beams and thought I might make one myself. What kind of welder should be used, would a MIG welder work for this? I'll have to figure out how to design the stairs, taking into account the angle and so on. How to solve the steps, but I will probably want to weld a thinner steel plate on the beam as a step, then attach an oak board to the steel plate for appearance.
What do you think? Too difficult? Does a MIG welder work? Or do you need a gas welder? By the way, how much does an H-beam cost? :-D
What do you think? Too difficult? Does a MIG welder work? Or do you need a gas welder? By the way, how much does an H-beam cost? :-D
Gas welding is probably not the first choice; a MIG/MAG is usually available nearby for most people. Otherwise, I would have chosen a "stick welder."
But since you're asking, I assume you're inexperienced, and in that case, the MIG is easier to handle (It's usually MAG most of the time).
Beams are insanely expensive, but check with your local scrap dealer...
But since you're asking, I assume you're inexperienced, and in that case, the MIG is easier to handle (It's usually MAG most of the time).
Beams are insanely expensive, but check with your local scrap dealer...
We built something similar at our place, with stick welding. The steel material cost around 7-8000 if I remember correctly, including bending the angles for the steps and beam. We used rectangular hollow profile 100x200 mm, lying down. On the steel angles, we screwed oak steps. It turned out sturdy and good. You can do it yourself, but you have to think it through properly beforehand.
have built a similar one for a summerhouse.
But then the steps were not notched over the post but rested on a flat iron as wide as the beam at the front edge.
Keep in mind that even a strong beam can warp during welding.
But then the steps were not notched over the post but rested on a flat iron as wide as the beam at the front edge.
Keep in mind that even a strong beam can warp during welding.
MIG/MAG welding or stick welding is probably the first choice.
Keep in mind that the MAG's current must match the material thickness.
The simpler hobby welders often work well up to at least 2-3 mm sheet metal, sometimes 4 mm as well, then it becomes a high risk of cold welding.
Keep in mind that the MAG's current must match the material thickness.
The simpler hobby welders often work well up to at least 2-3 mm sheet metal, sometimes 4 mm as well, then it becomes a high risk of cold welding.
Okay, thanks for the response, strong welding then for a beam, how many watts are we talking about?
So you who have made stairs, you seem to have made this solution like my picture? smart actually, easier to do than my solution, as long as the oak board is strong enough. How did you solve the bottom and top of the beam?
So you who have made stairs, you seem to have made this solution like my picture? smart actually, easier to do than my solution, as long as the oak board is strong enough. How did you solve the bottom and top of the beam?
the sheets can be almost as large as the finished step, so the oak board doesn't need to carry so much.
At the bottom, I angled the beam and attached a sheet with holes for fastening to the floor, and at the top, I angled the beam so it laid horizontally against the wall, and then a sheet with holes for fastening to the wall.
At the bottom, I angled the beam and attached a sheet with holes for fastening to the floor, and at the top, I angled the beam so it laid horizontally against the wall, and then a sheet with holes for fastening to the wall.
250A should be enough ...Mäster said:
Once I welded 6mm with a 250A Kemppi MAG. I can say that there was absolutely no problem getting full penetration.
It was wonderful compared to my own Luna micromig at 100A (and I think that spec is pretty much tweaked up)
I have welded quite a few meters of weld with an old ESAB smashweld 150A, which I think would handle up to 5-6 mm material.
But in any case, there is the possibility to go for a larger profile with less material thickness. This makes it easier to weld with a thinner welder, easier and cheaper beams.
You mean "vertically" against the wall (at the top), right?blackadder said:
I'll also consider other solutions as you say, to lower the price and weld, I also thought about whether I should use a beam of trä instead, but I don't know if there are suitable ones to get hold of, so I can avoid the welding issue. I don't even know if my single-phase at home can handle a 250A welder? A laminated beam probably costs a fortune as well.Mikael_L said:250A should be enough ...
Once I welded 6mm with a 250A Kemppi MAG. I can say that there was absolutely no problem getting full penetration.
It was wonderful compared to my own Luna micromig at 100A (and I think the spec is almost tuned up)
I've welded quite a few meters of weld with an old ESAB smashweld 150A, I think it would have managed up to 5-6 mm material.
But in any case, there is the possibility to go for a larger profile with less material thickness. That way, it becomes easier to weld with a smaller welder, lighter and cheaper beam.
I assume you live in a villa since you're thinking about welding at home, and you should be able to connect the welder to the stove outlet...
3 phase 16 A is enough for most "garage welders".
Of course, you can use a smaller welder than 250 A, but it takes a bit more time and requires a bit more practice/knowledge.
A 180 A welder is also sufficient, and it's quite a common size in many garages,
if you have a friend to borrow from...
3 phase 16 A is enough for most "garage welders".
Of course, you can use a smaller welder than 250 A, but it takes a bit more time and requires a bit more practice/knowledge.
A 180 A welder is also sufficient, and it's quite a common size in many garages,
if you have a friend to borrow from...
100-130, maybe 150A is probably the strongest you can find that runs on single phase.
Additionally, I slightly distrust the A-figure if it's claimed that a single-phaser can handle 150A, there are sales arguments too ....
Glulam beam is probably the natural wood alternative, something around 56x270 - 66x315 should suffice?
edit: The glulam beam must of course be upright, so it won't be as sleek a staircase construction as with a steel beam.
Additionally, I slightly distrust the A-figure if it's claimed that a single-phaser can handle 150A, there are sales arguments too ....
Glulam beam is probably the natural wood alternative, something around 56x270 - 66x315 should suffice?
edit: The glulam beam must of course be upright, so it won't be as sleek a staircase construction as with a steel beam.
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Nix, I live in an apartment, but it's probably possible to weld in the pad too, directly on site :-D otherwise, I have a workshop in the basement, but I don't think it's possible to get out of the basement with such a long beam, same corridors and tight curves, like a labyrinth down there.
But laminated wood can probably look nice too? In what way is it ugly if it's upright? And I'm a bit unsure about what you mean by upright. My staircase is going to be quite steep, almost like a loft ladder, well, somewhere between a loft ladder and a staircase. Like my 1st picture roughly. By the way, 56cm? 66cm? Are they that wide? Aren't there narrower ones? 270 might be too short in length anyway, 315 would then be better, but 66 wide... maybe that's what you meant by it not being as nice. 66cm might work anyway, but it will surely weigh a lot and cost a fortune.
Is an I-beam cheaper than laminated wood?
But laminated wood can probably look nice too? In what way is it ugly if it's upright? And I'm a bit unsure about what you mean by upright. My staircase is going to be quite steep, almost like a loft ladder, well, somewhere between a loft ladder and a staircase. Like my 1st picture roughly. By the way, 56cm? 66cm? Are they that wide? Aren't there narrower ones? 270 might be too short in length anyway, 315 would then be better, but 66 wide... maybe that's what you meant by it not being as nice. 66cm might work anyway, but it will surely weigh a lot and cost a fortune.
Is an I-beam cheaper than laminated wood?
http://www.letmegooglethatforyou.com/?q=Limträbalk
And then you check the first page that comes up
Then you have the price for timber, and you can do the same thing with an H beam and check some prices
And then you check the first page that comes up
Then you have the price for timber, and you can do the same thing with an H beam and check some prices