3,874 views ·
8 replies
4k views
8 replies
Waterborne underfloor heating on wooden joists
In a previous thread, I asked for advice regarding my hall renovation.
Now I've progressed a step further and thought that since it involves other things, I would start a new thread.
I'm renovating the hall and will remove a radiator and replace it with water-based underfloor heating, about 10 sqm.
The floor slopes slightly on the longest part and needs to be leveled, and I need to add more joists for a tighter center-to-center distance? I plan to lay tiles on top.
The question is, how do I attach the new joists to the floor joist/concrete slab?
When I leveled another room, I just placed the joists with wooden wedges underneath against the concrete, which didn't turn out well because now there's a lot of clunking on that part of the floor when you walk.
I would like to avoid that in the hall. I've seen that some floor joists are cast into the concrete slab?
The house is from 1943 and is a single-story with a basement.
Now I've progressed a step further and thought that since it involves other things, I would start a new thread.
I'm renovating the hall and will remove a radiator and replace it with water-based underfloor heating, about 10 sqm.
The floor slopes slightly on the longest part and needs to be leveled, and I need to add more joists for a tighter center-to-center distance? I plan to lay tiles on top.
The question is, how do I attach the new joists to the floor joist/concrete slab?
When I leveled another room, I just placed the joists with wooden wedges underneath against the concrete, which didn't turn out well because now there's a lot of clunking on that part of the floor when you walk.
I would like to avoid that in the hall. I've seen that some floor joists are cast into the concrete slab?
The house is from 1943 and is a single-story with a basement.
Thinking about leveling the floor? Should swallow any incorrect slopes and become firm
Edit
I'm just an amateur at this, but how would it work to tear out the existing beam framework. Measure a level line. Cast ledger strips or joist hangers to get in line.
Put in new lumber and cross bracing so you achieve level.
Edit
I'm just an amateur at this, but how would it work to tear out the existing beam framework. Measure a level line. Cast ledger strips or joist hangers to get in line.
Put in new lumber and cross bracing so you achieve level.
Last edited:
Grundstött
· Halland
· 28 345 posts
Agree 110%D09 said:
There's wood to hang joist hangers and floor joists on both sides.
And then you can lay a subfloor, so there's a couple of cm of air underneath for ventilation,
and then plenty of insulation.
(Or is it better to seal it completely. But what about the insulation?)
Fun with old houses anyway
Thank you for your answers!
Is casting really a good idea? It feels like it would be very heavy and how does the construction handle it? Maybe I forgot to mention that there is a basement underneath.
Laying new timber seems closest, but attaching everything so that it becomes really rigid is the problem. In some places, a beam shoe would work, but not everywhere due to the difference in the levels of the beams.
Is casting really a good idea? It feels like it would be very heavy and how does the construction handle it? Maybe I forgot to mention that there is a basement underneath.
Laying new timber seems closest, but attaching everything so that it becomes really rigid is the problem. In some places, a beam shoe would work, but not everywhere due to the difference in the levels of the beams.
Click here to reply


