It seems to be becoming more common with smart glass (and other special glass) and since I am planning a privalite glass (a glass that is milky/opaque but becomes transparent, almost like regular window glass when you turn on the power) in the bathroom, I thought I would ask if anyone who has an electrically connected glass has found a good solution for how to manage power supply combined with openability?
Either you need some kind of contact that you unplug when opening, or a more or less flexible cable.
My window is a top-controlled/reversible window (Velfac 200), which I understand makes it a bit more complicated. Hopefully, someone else has already come up with a good solution for this.
Either you need some kind of contact that you unplug when opening, or a more or less flexible cable.
My window is a top-controlled/reversible window (Velfac 200), which I understand makes it a bit more complicated. Hopefully, someone else has already come up with a good solution for this.
Have you already bought it? What voltage does this window operate with? Doesn't the window manufacturer have a solution for that?
No, the window manufacturer couldn't consider delivering with Privalite glass (and I absolutely wanted Velfac, so going to another supplier was not an option) so I will replace the glass now after the window is installed (electricity is routed to the window).
My best suggestion so far is to make the connection with a plug at the top of the window, so you can open the window for ventilation without needing to disconnect. To prevent accidentally turning the window without unplugging, I thought of some kind of "safety chain" that holds back so you don't break the connection if you forget it.
My best suggestion so far is to make the connection with a plug at the top of the window, so you can open the window for ventilation without needing to disconnect. To prevent accidentally turning the window without unplugging, I thought of some kind of "safety chain" that holds back so you don't break the connection if you forget it.
If it is low voltage, you can use the same connector that some old cars have in the trunk (pin against surface). It might not have been so good for the power required then, but it depends on the specifications of your window.
According to the advertising site, it is 100 volts AC.
There is a lot of info here:
http://www.privalite.eu/products/faq/#toggle-id-10
I would prefer a small curtain of some sort
There is a lot of info here:
http://www.privalite.eu/products/faq/#toggle-id-10
I would prefer a small curtain of some sort
Thank you! It is probably the CL Specialglas variant I will be installing, and I seem to recall that the transformer converted to around 24 volts, but I can't remember for sure (and they have no info about their glass on their website - I don't know where they buy the film from, but it differs slightly from Emmaboda's privalite).
The problem with the curtain (which I've lived with for 13 years) is that it is always drawn, which feels like a bit of a waste of a lovely window. I don't care about privacy when I'm brushing my teeth or doing laundry, but I want it to be a bit more private when I'm using the toilet or taking a shower
It is quite simple to arrange for a curtain to be drawn or pulled back, as needed. But you knew that already
Yep, know that it's possible to have things like electric blinds, but a "privalite" glass will work better
Maybe something like this: http://www.pgbildelar.se/1959-dodge-sw-kontakt-baklucka/1105-0
Maybe something like this: http://www.pgbildelar.se/1959-dodge-sw-kontakt-baklucka/1105-0
Now I know I'm going OT, but not too much.
Don't you think you could reach the curtain if you stretch out your hand a little?
It shouldn't be more difficult than pressing an electrical switch
Don't you think you could reach the curtain if you stretch out your hand a little?
It shouldn't be more difficult than pressing an electrical switch
The window is at the far end of the room, the WC closest to the door. From experience, I know that the curtain will be down much more often than up (and so it seems to be the case in most homes I've visited that have windows in the bathroom.
100 V AC, hmmm, then these connectors are not suitable. There are a number of solutions for moving contacts, usually for industrial use. Expect it to be expensive!
If it becomes very expensive with a movable contact (but as I said, I rather think it is about 24V, although I'm not sure - have emailed the company to ask) then I will instead go for the version where I can disconnect it (really only needed when you need to clean the windows - but with that solution, the "safety chain" is also required).
True, same here.ccf said:the window is at the far end of the room, the WC is closest to the door. From experience, I know that the curtain will be down much more often than up (and that seems to be the case at most people's houses who have windows in the bathroom.
But I don't have a single curtain in the entire house.
Except for blinds in the bedrooms, of course.
But I'm lucky when it comes to privacy