We have a recently drained basement that also needs to be fixed up inside.
The wall consists of LECA blocks and is insulated on the outside with Jackodrän insulation boards.
The inside thus consists of LECA with the old wooden studs remaining (previously there was insulation on the inside and particleboard walls).
On the floor, we plan to lay (in the following order from the bottom) a Platon mat, insulation, particleboard flooring, and possibly a simple "click floor."
Now the question is what we should choose to do on the inside?
As we see it, we have two options.
Option 1
Concrete plaster which is then painted and possibly covered with some type of fabric wallpaper.
Option 2
Particleboard or plasterboard on the existing wooden studs with a well-ventilated back, i.e., with an air gap of about 45mm between the wall and the board.
What should we choose?
Perhaps there are more options?
The wall consists of LECA blocks and is insulated on the outside with Jackodrän insulation boards.
The inside thus consists of LECA with the old wooden studs remaining (previously there was insulation on the inside and particleboard walls).
On the floor, we plan to lay (in the following order from the bottom) a Platon mat, insulation, particleboard flooring, and possibly a simple "click floor."
Now the question is what we should choose to do on the inside?
As we see it, we have two options.
Option 1
Concrete plaster which is then painted and possibly covered with some type of fabric wallpaper.
Option 2
Particleboard or plasterboard on the existing wooden studs with a well-ventilated back, i.e., with an air gap of about 45mm between the wall and the board.
What should we choose?
Perhaps there are more options?
If you're doing the work yourself, it's probably much easier to install studs and drywall than to plaster.
Additionally, you can run electrical wires behind the drywall.
At the neighbor's basement, there have been wooden studs with a strip of tar paper against the leca for many years, and they look like new now that he tore off the drywall. So I don't think there's any danger in using wooden studs.
But if you don't need to straighten the wall and can afford to buy metal studs... then it's probably safer!
/Henke
Additionally, you can run electrical wires behind the drywall.
At the neighbor's basement, there have been wooden studs with a strip of tar paper against the leca for many years, and they look like new now that he tore off the drywall. So I don't think there's any danger in using wooden studs.
But if you don't need to straighten the wall and can afford to buy metal studs... then it's probably safer!
/Henke
Hmm, two different answers - I didn't get any wiser from that 
What is clear, however, is that I should tear off the existing wooden studs that do NOT have any tar paper behind.
I also need to tear off the stairs that are currently attached to the wooden studs
So the cheapest should be plaster and the simplest metal studs+gypsum?
How difficult is it really to plaster Leca walls if you've never done it before?
The room we're talking about is about 15m2 and will be used as storage.
What is clear, however, is that I should tear off the existing wooden studs that do NOT have any tar paper behind.
I also need to tear off the stairs that are currently attached to the wooden studs
So the cheapest should be plaster and the simplest metal studs+gypsum?
How difficult is it really to plaster Leca walls if you've never done it before?
The room we're talking about is about 15m2 and will be used as storage.
If you have a bit of a knack for it, it's not that hard to do. What's more challenging is getting the right consistency if you've never seen or done plastering before. I'm not an expert either, but I've plastered my interior walls in the house (Leca walls). I mix a plaster mortar with one part cement A and three parts plaster sand. There are surely others with different recipes. The consistency shouldn't be too loose and preferably not too hard. That is, it shouldn't be too runny and not like overcooked oatmeal. If it becomes too hard, add a little more water, and if too loose, add more sand. When it's ready, I usually mix water with cement in a bucket and use a brush to apply it onto the wall and let it dry for a while. Then you just take a large trowel or something similar and apply the plaster onto the wall in an upward smooth motion. Finally, you smooth it out.Ubbe said:
am partial to plaster otherwise, especially since I want uneven walls in the two rooms in the basement that I will decorate...
spread putty on ugly, then I tear off the worst edges once it's dry... becomes a bit like house walls in Greece, white and a little uneven "pretty" like
a sack of g66 25kilos costs about 150 pix, requires about 3 sacks for a room of 15m2
spread putty on ugly, then I tear off the worst edges once it's dry... becomes a bit like house walls in Greece, white and a little uneven "pretty" like
a sack of g66 25kilos costs about 150 pix, requires about 3 sacks for a room of 15m2
As I said, I'm not an expert in the field, but I "slam" with a mixture of water & cement beforehand. It probably works without slamming too. However, it's recommended to wet the leca beforehand with water so the leca doesn't absorb all the water from the plaster too quickly.
For clarification, it is not necessary to slam a lecavägg before it is plastered. But as the previous speaker said, water it well!
Hmm, that was a good idea to router in cables and boxesroli said:A brush will be good
If you are going to have any electrical outlets in the wall, recess pipes and boxes into the cinder block wall before you plaster it.
How come I didn't think of that :-[Naturally, a follow-up question arises, what kind of tool do you use for that?
A link that explains a bit about plastering.
http://www.dinbyggare.com/artiklar/artikel.asp?docid=254
http://www.dinbyggare.com/artiklar/artikel.asp?docid=254
Personally, I only use A, i.e., you mix the sand yourself. I usually use 1 part mortar and 3-4 parts sand. It probably works with a little + or - on the sand too.
C should be the pre-mixed one to which you just add water.
I actually don't know what B stands for.
When it comes to milling, you can rent such a milling machine from almost any rental service. If there isn't much to be milled, maybe a chisel that you can sacrifice to chip away at the leca will suffice.
C should be the pre-mixed one to which you just add water.
I actually don't know what B stands for.
When it comes to milling, you can rent such a milling machine from almost any rental service. If there isn't much to be milled, maybe a chisel that you can sacrifice to chip away at the leca will suffice.