Hi everyone, I have a question about laying vinyl flooring. We have started tearing out our upper floor for some renovation (our first house), we have bought vinyl flooring and tried laying it on the subfloor to see how it behaves and as many have already figured out, the subfloor isn't very even. What should we place underneath to make it level? There are not huge uneven areas, just a place here and there where there's about 5-8mm of air underneath if you place something straight on top. Is it enough to lay out 6mm MDF to make it right or will that flex too? Grateful for as many tips as possible. Best regards, Alex
Sponted chipboard becomes a flat and nice base for the vinyl floor. The bearing capacity is already there, right? In that case, 12mm chipboard is sufficient.
Yes, load-bearing capacity is there, the sheathing doesn't flex. Then maybe it's better to go with 12mm instead.
Oh, can you get it that flat just by sanding them?
Depends on how uneven it is?
I assume it's the boards that have warped?
If you rent a sander and use 16 or 32 grit paper, you should be able to get it all down, I would say, you will also need an edge sander.
You mean vinyl planks, as in click vinyl flooring, right?
There's a risk that you'll see the seams between the boards after a few years of walking if you lay it directly on sanded flooring.
If you mean vinyl flooring as in matting, then perhaps the only option is to either lay spontaneous ROT flooring 12mm or lay 12mm wall particle boards that are glued edge to edge and screwed a bit closer than the instructions, it works but you might need to sand the edges a bit more than with spontaneous flooring.
I assume it's the boards that have warped?
If you rent a sander and use 16 or 32 grit paper, you should be able to get it all down, I would say, you will also need an edge sander.
You mean vinyl planks, as in click vinyl flooring, right?
There's a risk that you'll see the seams between the boards after a few years of walking if you lay it directly on sanded flooring.
If you mean vinyl flooring as in matting, then perhaps the only option is to either lay spontaneous ROT flooring 12mm or lay 12mm wall particle boards that are glued edge to edge and screwed a bit closer than the instructions, it works but you might need to sand the edges a bit more than with spontaneous flooring.
It is the planks that have warped, so it is still a few mm, I can take a picture tomorrow so maybe it is easier to give tips. Yes, it is click flooring, but if there is still a risk that the joints may show after a few years, isn't it better to lay a subfloor so it becomes flat before the floor? Or can the joints still appear?
