Discovered a large hole next to the neighbor, what to do?

[Odjuret]

There are certain times when I don't care to apply for planning permission... If I move the kitchen in my villa to a completely different location, it will have to be an illegal construction

 

[HSP]

That is not a big deal to improve.
Make sure the damaged parts are replaced, it should be the association's concern.

Then cover the wall with double plasterboard with staggered joints. Then you have significantly improved the fire protection, maybe not the way it would be built today, but it certainly won't be worse.

What I do see that should be fixed is the water pipes for hot and cold water.
Also, the sewage pipes are of the poor plastic type that existed from the 1960s to the early 1980s.
Water and sewage pipes that serve several apartments are often the responsibility of the Brf.
But it is simple and cheap to arrange at this stage.
If the association doesn’t want to change them, unfortunately, that's how it is.

Regarding fire protection, also consider how it looks where the pipes go through the floor and ceiling, as well as the wall.
Plastic pipes are usually not used through fire cells.

Now I don't know anything about how the fire protection looks in your property and where any fire cells go; normally each apartment is a fire cell.
But it is part of the property owner's responsibility to keep track of fire protection as well as OVK, electrical installations, asbestos, radon, PCB, etc.

One should always raise the standard and safety against damage when renovating.

Ps: You always cap the water pipes at the shut-offs during renovation. (not fun if you drop a board on the tap and the plastic handle breaks, and the water sprays)

 

[Jetkokos]

Regarding fire protection for this specific property and what measures may be deemed reasonable to implement according to LSO, there is really no point in discussing here, as there is not enough information about the building, its systems, condition, etc. In directives for older buildings, however, higher demands are generally placed on the possibility of evacuation rather than on the ability of building parts to prevent fire spread.

I would have framed a regular wall, covered it with double plasterboard for acoustics' sake, and simultaneously received a small fire protection bonus as a bonus. Regardless of the association's potential willingness/unwillingness to do so.

 

[Odjuret]

That's not a big deal to improve,
Make sure to replace the damaged parts, it should be the association's responsibility.

Then cover the wall with double drywall with staggered seams. Then you have improved the fire protection significantly, maybe not how it would be built today, but it won't get any worse.

What I do see that needs fixing is the pipes for hot and cold water.
The drainpipes are of the poor plastic type that existed from the 1960s to the early 1980s
Water and drain pipes serving multiple dwellings are often the responsibility of the housing association.
But it's easy and cheap to arrange at this stage.
If the association doesn't want to replace them, then that's just the way it is, unfortunately.

Regarding fire protection, also consider how it looks where the pipes go through the floor and the ceiling, as well as the wall.
Plastic pipes are usually not used through fire compartments.

I don't know anything about the fire protection in your property and where potential fire compartments go, normally each apartment is a fire compartment.
But it is the property owner's responsibility to keep track of fire protection just like OVK, electrical installations, asbestos, radon, PCB, etc.

When renovating, you should always raise the standard and safety against damages.

Ps: You should always cap the water pipes at the shut-offs during renovation. (not fun if you drop a board on the faucet and the plastic handle breaks and water sprays everywhere)

The drains are the association’s responsibility to fix. But they don't need to fix it right now. They can set it aside for the future.
But regardless of the association's responsibility or not, a new drainpipe doesn't cost many coins. Drywall on the wall also doesn’t cost much...
I would never argue with the association about such things. If it’s a small association, you'll end up bearing the cost anyway. It’s better to do it yourself. It’s also much faster... If the association has to do it, they need to make a decision about it at a board meeting. They likely won't have a special early meeting for this. They’ll probably need to bring in help from lawyers to discuss the responsibility issue. If they decide to replace it, they'll need to hire a craftsman to do it...
Even if they choose to address it directly in the meeting, it'll still take a long time. Say their meeting isn't until a month from now... Then they'll need to find someone to fix it all...
In the meantime, the kitchen stands as it is, with nothing happening. And as far as I know, the association is responsible for paying compensation for having to eat elsewhere. It is your own FB that covers this...
But sure... If you want to be without a kitchen for quite a while, go ahead. But I think it just seems foolish...

 

[Matzeball]

We talked to the neighbor. They thought it was very strange. I'll get in touch with the board. What do I do if the board doesn't want to fix the problem?

What did the board say then?
They might be glad that it's demolished and exposed, and the hundreds it concerns should be a small cost for them in that case. Otherwise, the BRF's insurance company (or your own) is a good way to go so that it gets done and they pay for any possible future damage.

 

[Odjuret]

What did the board say then?
They might be happy that it's demolished and exposed, and the few hundred it's about should be a small cost for them in that case. Otherwise, the BRF-s insurance company (or your own) is a good way to go so it gets done so they pay in case of any future damage.

Why would the FB pay for this? Do you have an example where an FB has paid out money to address something as a precaution?
Why would TS FB be interested in paying any of this? Because if an accident happens, they only compensate for the surfaces in the FB's apartment.
Maybe it was a little thoughtless advice? Or if you know I'm wrong, please give an example...

 

[Fotografen]

[image]

Pick off what is loose and screw drywall over the mess, or plyfa + drywall to get a little more to attach the rest of the kitchen.
(If you're going to split hairs with the association and a bunch of lawyers, you'll be eating takeout pizza and mcmums for months.)

 

[snuttjulle]

Don't understand why you shouldn't go to the board and inform them about this. Small house = few owners. You have a lot to say. Come to the meeting well-prepared and provide suggestions on how it should be fixed and spruced up for as little money as possible for the association. The extra cost for you will be a drop in the ocean if they don't want to help at all, but then you'll have everything on paper that you've done what's required of you as an owner and informed them about this issue.

 

[ItWasntMe]

Carpenter here.
That is a very old water damage that currently isn't a problem at all.
As for having a clear view to the neighbor, well, sh*t happens, you just have to say in this situation. None of you could have known before you started renovating. Probably the board doesn't know about it either.
However, it is ultimately the housing association's responsibility to actually fix that hole, but you should ask yourself, is it worth the time and hassle to deal with it? Right now, as some said before, just put on double drywall. You have a lot of solid material to screw into on the sides, which is more than sufficient. That's what even a hired company would have done, while another company might have removed the dried boards and secured new ones. Then drywall over that.
Simply ask yourselves what the time is worth waiting for someone else to do it for you.
My suggestion is double drywall on top and ask if the association can assist with the small cost as a goodwill gesture. =)

 

[ItWasntMe]

Another suggestion for getting a fresh wooden wall BEHIND the plasterboard is this:
Buy Råspont (skip the chipboard as it’s just more cumbersome in this situation) and stack it with entirely new material.
Screw, don’t nail! If you nail, you might just shake loose the studs that are already in place.
As I estimate it, it's only about 1.8 meters wide, and that's really nothing. Carefully remove the old panel with a sleek quality crowbar Hultafors, keep the studs up and down to which it’s nailed. Then dress it with double plasterboard on the outside. Done. Take the opportunity to insert electrical outlets and so on that you surely want.
Win-win, so to speak. =)

https://www.xlbygg.se/byggole/nacka/sortiment/tra/virke-ovrigt/20x95-mm-rasp-v-andspont-23296
Costs 61kr/m2. So your wall costs about 250kr + plasterboard + screws.

 

[chihoist]

Looks like dry rot/coniophora, lab tests are necessary. Send a sample to the botanical analysis group.

 

[oceanis]

Looks like dry rot/mold, lab tests are necessary. Send samples to the botanical analysis group

I absolutely don't think so... it looks like it was an ordinary kitchen counter model from the 1920-30s with a sink once upon a time, i.e., the original furnishings. Moisture, i.e., at that time there were no waterproof layers, so water splashes went in behind the panel or the old mat that was by the sink, and the wood has simply rotted behind it. What was done then was just to cover up the damage once upon a time when the kitchen was renovated.
It definitely doesn't look like dry rot, so I don't think there's any need to alarm the OP unnecessarily

 

[Matzeball]

Why would FB pay for this? Do you have an example where an FB has paid out money to address something preventively?
Why would TS FB be interested in paying for any of this? Because if an accident happens, they will still only replace the surface layers in FB's apartment.
Perhaps a somewhat ill-considered advice? Or if you know I'm wrong, you are welcome to provide examples...

I didn't mean they would pay for this damage but that they set rules for proper repair to avoid future insurance damage if done incorrectly. Maybe a bit unclear from me. You can usually talk to FB and get their perspective on how it should be repaired.

 

[fsn]

Another suggestion to get a fresh wood wall BEHIND the drywall is this:
Buy Råspont (ignore chipboard, it’s just more cumbersome in this situation) and stack it new.
Screw, don't nail! If you nail, you will probably just loosen the studs that are already there.
If I estimate it, it's only about 1.8 meters wide and that's really nothing. Carefully remove the old panel with a sleek quality crowbar Hultafors, keep the studs at the top and bottom which are already nailed. Then cover with double drywall on the outside. Done. Take the opportunity to embed electrical outlets, etc. that you surely want.
Win-win, so to say. =)

[link]
Costs 61kr/m2. So your wall costs about 250kr + drywall + screws

Why not remove the old wood panels and insert plywood or even formply and if necessary drywall on top of that? It becomes unbeatable to screw into. Either way, it's a 4-hour job for anyone including shopping. Ask the association for 500kr for the materials and do the job yourself. Hurry before it rains, so you can saw in the yard.

 

[ItWasntMe]

Each person does as they feel. Personally, I feel that it's more work to inset a panel since it has to be lowered to the floor, and there's also a pipe there. Then the plywood must build up to the same thickness as what you tear away. Of course, it's perfectly possible to inset as well, it's up to each person. Personally, I would have gone with råspont if I had chosen to do something about the wall. But as I said, it's only about personal taste and how you prefer to work, nothing else.