Underfloor heating in sparse on load-bearing floor

[daer01]

Hello!

I need some input here. I've searched the forum and the internet but unfortunately haven't found this specific question. I'm considering installing underfloor heating on the upper floor of a newly built house. I've chosen the sparse option (21x120mm sparse with 30mm gaps), but I'm not planning to tear up the existing chipboard flooring just to fit the sparse into the joists; instead, I'm laying the sparse directly on the chipboard. What I'm mainly wondering is whether this is a viable option, and if so, will I need to lay floor gypsum (12.5mm) on top of the sparse even though it's all resting on supporting flooring? The top floor will consist of 8 or 10mm laminate.
Avoiding sheet material between sparse/pipes and the top floor would be really nice in terms of labor and cost since it's about 100 sqm.

The conditions are as follows:

22mm floorboard
300 masonite beam c.600
300 glass wool
Vapor barrier
28x70 sparse
12mm white-foiled gypsum board

Thanks in advance.

 

[huggan]

Regardless of the particle board or not, you can skip the plaster.

 

[daer01]

Regardless of the particle board or not, you can skip the gypsum.

Sounds promising, but excuse my ignorance as I ask for an explanation of what it is that allows me to skip the gypsum?

 

[mexitegel]

Well, thin laminates are not self-supporting and sparse/conduit is not a flat surface. I think there's quite a high risk of ending up with a creaking floor.

 

[Danne_83]

I was considering the same thing a few years ago and had about the same surfaces, though I was going to use 14mm parquet. After doing some research, I chose to lay floor gypsum on the plates and I don't regret it one bit. In your case, when you're not even going to have parquet, I personally think you should go for gypsum.

Edit. Since it's on an upper floor, the gypsum is extra good as it also dampens sound.

 

[Bob_the_builder]

I dare say that 8 mm laminate flooring cannot withstand the cavities formed by the gaps between the boards and at the hose's turning zones. Install plasterboard or switch to a covering of at least 14 mm (boards or parquet),

 

[huggan]

22 mm supports a span of 555 mm, so you mean that 8 mm cannot support a span of 30 mm?

We know that 8 mm is approved for a span of 20 mm because the milled chipboards exist for 20 mm piping.

 

[daer01]

That a 10 mm laminate floor would not be able to carry over a 30 mm gap is hard for me to believe. However, the resonance might change when it comes to turning zones. And as mexitegel wrote... creaking floors are probably a significant risk. Bleh, might as well use floor gypsum in between. Speaking of floor gypsum. Is it screwed or glued to the glesen?

 

[Bob_the_builder]

You're supposed to have sheet metal there, so it's just screwed.

 

[Danne_83]

Regardless of the chipboard or not, you can skip the plasterboard.

Doesn't it feel a bit shaky to walk on 21x120 boards that are resting on supports s600?

 

[-RB-]

In this case, the glesen will be placed on a 22 mm floor chipboard. So it probably won't be wobbly.

 

[Danne_83]

In this case, the glesen will be on a 22 mm flooring chipboard. So it probably won't be shaky.

There might be a reason that my text was after a quote...