I've never seen bulging treetex walls before. However, 3 mm masonite walls that aren't tightly nailed can bulge. On the other hand, I have a couple of plastered walls from the '80s that bulge. They wave where they are nailed to the studs and then bulge out between the studs. So, with wrong methods and/or subpar materials from the start (i.e., boards that have been stored damp and not adequately set up or laid and thus have become warped/bent), the result isn't perfect.
The problem with treetex (and masonite) is that they are living materials, unlike the lifeless plaster. This means they react to seasonal moisture changes and can eventually cause cracks in wallpaper or paint at the panel joints. It can be mitigated with the right methods. It's less of an issue in permanently heated houses where indoor humidity doesn't vary as much as in unheated or intermittently cold houses.
Treetex is an absorbent material, so the standard previously was to first apply a layer of wallpaper paste to dry and then wallpaper in the usual way. Alternatively, to use a maximal flow of wallpaper paste directly. Antiquing through painting was probably also done. It's an old method known to every artist. In the past, every canvas intended for oil painting was always primed. They probably still do it if they use real quality canvases. If the fabric wallpaper only consists of an airy weave that isn't pre-pasted on paper, the contact surface between the weave's threads/yarn and the treetex surface (which is rough) is minimal. With too little wallpaper paste and/or unpatinated treetex, there is a clear risk that the weave will not stick well. The yarn of the weave also absorbs wallpaper paste.
Finally, it's a personal preference what you like and are comfortable with, and what type of house you have, i.e., old or new. Personally, I appreciate living non-straight walls but not cracked wallpapers. People focus on different things. I can't stand the desecration of old houses where owners are completely blind and think that new insulated glass windows look the same as the old, beautiful, fitting windows in linseed-painted wood with muntins and mouth-blown or machine-drawn glass. It stings my eyes like welding glare when you drive past from 100 m away. The same goes for new perfectly straight roofs on old houses.
We are all different. The great thing about forums like this is that you can become aware of different sides of the same coin and then draw your own conclusions, hopefully based on facts and personal preference. Then reality usually intervenes and forces us to make compromises, such as spouses with different preferences and houses that don't easily allow themselves to be deceived, and of course, jobs and children that take up all the time...
The problem with treetex (and masonite) is that they are living materials, unlike the lifeless plaster. This means they react to seasonal moisture changes and can eventually cause cracks in wallpaper or paint at the panel joints. It can be mitigated with the right methods. It's less of an issue in permanently heated houses where indoor humidity doesn't vary as much as in unheated or intermittently cold houses.
Treetex is an absorbent material, so the standard previously was to first apply a layer of wallpaper paste to dry and then wallpaper in the usual way. Alternatively, to use a maximal flow of wallpaper paste directly. Antiquing through painting was probably also done. It's an old method known to every artist. In the past, every canvas intended for oil painting was always primed. They probably still do it if they use real quality canvases. If the fabric wallpaper only consists of an airy weave that isn't pre-pasted on paper, the contact surface between the weave's threads/yarn and the treetex surface (which is rough) is minimal. With too little wallpaper paste and/or unpatinated treetex, there is a clear risk that the weave will not stick well. The yarn of the weave also absorbs wallpaper paste.
Finally, it's a personal preference what you like and are comfortable with, and what type of house you have, i.e., old or new. Personally, I appreciate living non-straight walls but not cracked wallpapers. People focus on different things. I can't stand the desecration of old houses where owners are completely blind and think that new insulated glass windows look the same as the old, beautiful, fitting windows in linseed-painted wood with muntins and mouth-blown or machine-drawn glass. It stings my eyes like welding glare when you drive past from 100 m away. The same goes for new perfectly straight roofs on old houses.
We are all different. The great thing about forums like this is that you can become aware of different sides of the same coin and then draw your own conclusions, hopefully based on facts and personal preference. Then reality usually intervenes and forces us to make compromises, such as spouses with different preferences and houses that don't easily allow themselves to be deceived, and of course, jobs and children that take up all the time...
E erkana said:
Hi! Here you have a picture from my latest project. Sometimes I have bad luck when I'm thinking. Instead of going and getting some drywall, I spent an unreasonable number of hours filling the treetex boards. It turned out well, but I could have used my time better.