Good evening
In our house from -68, we have tretex walls on all the walls (excluding the kitchen and bathroom). There are also textured wallpapers that have been painted a couple of times over the years. The electricity is mounted on the surface. We rewired a while ago to have grounded and safe electricity at home. The plan was to recess the wiring, but the electrician didn't manage with the tretex, and it was ultimately only recessed in one of the bedrooms. So now we are left with ugly long gaps where the wiring was recessed.
We are not extremely handy, but we really want to learn how to renovate at home, as it becomes expensive to bring in professionals for everything.
We have had two different companies come home to offer to fix the 17 sqm bedroom.
Company 1: suggested we could put 13mm plasterboard on top of tretex, and it would cost us 8,000 after tax deductions, including materials.
Company 2: suggested we could tear off the tretex, put on OSB, check the insulation, and then 13mm plasterboard. The price for this was 30,000 after tax deductions. I can add that this company gave an unprofessional impression and didn't really seem to know what they were talking about.
I would like to do the job myself to save some money, but I don't have much renovation experience. No one to ask directly either, for that matter. Also a bit afraid of removing the tretex since two of the walls face the exterior.
I feel extremely torn. Is it okay to put plasterboard on tretex, won't it crack just as much after a couple of years? Or should we hire a company to remove tretex and put on OSB+plasterboard? Is it safe to tackle such a job as a novice? Any tips are warmly appreciated! Tips on where you can read about the different work steps to remove tretex and how to check the insulation, studs(?), install OSB and plasterboard.
Thank you in advance!
In our house from -68, we have tretex walls on all the walls (excluding the kitchen and bathroom). There are also textured wallpapers that have been painted a couple of times over the years. The electricity is mounted on the surface. We rewired a while ago to have grounded and safe electricity at home. The plan was to recess the wiring, but the electrician didn't manage with the tretex, and it was ultimately only recessed in one of the bedrooms. So now we are left with ugly long gaps where the wiring was recessed.
We are not extremely handy, but we really want to learn how to renovate at home, as it becomes expensive to bring in professionals for everything.
We have had two different companies come home to offer to fix the 17 sqm bedroom.
Company 1: suggested we could put 13mm plasterboard on top of tretex, and it would cost us 8,000 after tax deductions, including materials.
Company 2: suggested we could tear off the tretex, put on OSB, check the insulation, and then 13mm plasterboard. The price for this was 30,000 after tax deductions. I can add that this company gave an unprofessional impression and didn't really seem to know what they were talking about.
I would like to do the job myself to save some money, but I don't have much renovation experience. No one to ask directly either, for that matter. Also a bit afraid of removing the tretex since two of the walls face the exterior.
I feel extremely torn. Is it okay to put plasterboard on tretex, won't it crack just as much after a couple of years? Or should we hire a company to remove tretex and put on OSB+plasterboard? Is it safe to tackle such a job as a novice? Any tips are warmly appreciated! Tips on where you can read about the different work steps to remove tretex and how to check the insulation, studs(?), install OSB and plasterboard.
Thank you in advance!
Is all the electricity rewired but only recessed in one room?
Is more insulation needed? Or is it just to get a smooth surface to wallpaper on?
If it's "just" for a smooth surface, it's a relatively simple job to screw gypsum on top; you can also use renovation gypsum which doesn't add much build-up. The important thing is to find the studs behind to screw into.
Is more insulation needed? Or is it just to get a smooth surface to wallpaper on?
If it's "just" for a smooth surface, it's a relatively simple job to screw gypsum on top; you can also use renovation gypsum which doesn't add much build-up. The important thing is to find the studs behind to screw into.
Exactly, only in one room is the electricity now recessed. The status of the insulation is unknown to us if more is needed or not. It is primarily to get a smooth surface to work with.P Petter Forsen said:Is all the electricity rewired but only recessed in one room? Is more insulation needed? Or is it only to get a smooth surface to wallpaper on? If it's "just" for a smooth surface, it's a relatively simple job to screw gypsum on top, you can also use renovation gypsum which doesn't build much. The important thing is to find the studs behind to screw into.
If it's for an even surface, renovation plasterboard is easier, faster/better results if you reinforce the joints correctly. I haven't managed to do well with spackling, but I'm an amateur. It ended with us scraping/sanding off textured wallpaper on our three-step walls, it would have been easier with renovation plasterboard (and those with a recess for reinforcement/spackle).
To hide the cables, I routed into the existing wall with a circular saw, making two cuts next to each other with the thickness of the cables as depth plus a bit more.
To hide the cables, I routed into the existing wall with a circular saw, making two cuts next to each other with the thickness of the cables as depth plus a bit more.
We also have a house from 68a where the upper floor is made with tretex. Have you looked at what's behind the tretex? In our house, there's tongue and groove or thicker planks by the outer walls. It's perfectly fine to screw things in if you, for example, want to put up drywall. In our case, we have managed to split the textured wallpapers we had and then used a thinner version of renovation wallpaper. It's been a bit of a hassle here and there, but overall I think the result has turned out well.
A bit unsure what you mean by cracked? None of our wallpapers or walls with tretex have cracked?
A bit unsure what you mean by cracked? None of our wallpapers or walls with tretex have cracked?
Our house from 1960 also has tongue-and-groove walls behind the Tretex. Like dht in the previous post, I believe you can fill and wallpaper with renovation wallpaper. We have done this in all our rooms with great results. I would try it anyway, especially if you are eager to learn how to renovate.
House from '49 and had tretex on solid planks, all walls - I chose to track all the electricity in tretex by cutting grooves with a circular saw and embedding boxes with a T70 hole saw.
Chose 13mm drywall on all walls followed by spackle and paint - 9 years ago now and no walls have cracked.
Chose 13mm drywall on all walls followed by spackle and paint - 9 years ago now and no walls have cracked.
We just had a company due to the same problem. One room was fine to plaster and paint on the tretex after the blocking paint. In the other room, the wallpaper was too loose, and they chose 13mm gypsum instead, and the electricity was redone at the same time, which didn't seem to be a problem. Now we're doing a room ourselves upstairs, but half the wall is tretex and half is some kind of chipboard. There we just tore away the existing tretex with a crowbar. No problem to remove, but it's dusty and creates a lot of debris. They've also used tons of nails.
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