If you only need to trim a few doors or windows, there's no need to rent a miter saw. A simple miter box will suffice.
When I trim a door, I always go side-top-side.... cut at 45 degrees (of course). I nail the miters together first and then fully nail the moldings without pulling the miters apart.
 
verktygsgurun said:
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Coping crown molding is a good method, but no one does it today since everything has to go so fast.
The carpenter acquaintances I've talked to almost always cope, and I think the result is better than mitering. You can't see the seam in the corners.

So if you hire a carpenter for molding, ask if they can do coping, it takes a little longer, but a much better result, especially if the corners are not exactly 90 degrees or the moldings are profiled.
 
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PeterJeffrey
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I plan to install cornices, pre-painted, and cope. But then I saw somewhere that pre-painted ones are normally mitered (Hus-AMA?). Will it look bad to cope pre-painted, or is it just a waste of time?

I have 9 inside corners in the kitchen...
 
I usually mount the top rail on the trim first, then cut the side pieces at a 45-degree angle, turn the tip downwards and place it in position, then you can mark the exact length for cutting with a pencil.
 
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-MH-
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Would you have been satisfied? I think it might need some caulk.
Close-up of an interior window frame with visible gaps, indicating the need for additional caulking for a smooth finish.

A window with gaps needing caulking, showing a fitting and unpainted wall edges.
 
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Oh, color on the nails....
 
That's possible. Can it be improved much, or should I be satisfied?
 
The nailing seems to have been done with 3" and not particularly nicely placed either.
 
E
Would probably prefer to shoot with a brad nailer with a significantly smaller head and paint the head white.
 
Corner of a room with white wood panel walls, patterned wallpaper, and ceiling trim.
I spent several hours on this outer corner before I got it right! Damn😂
 
I had to cheat a little with filler because I really couldn't manage to get a perfect miter on that corner😝
 
Relatively new to the forum, but it seems to host a lot of prejudices. As a carpenter, I personally only set up moldings mitered at 45 degrees unless the customer wants 90-degree cuts on the moldings.

I am happy to cope moldings, but it's not often one works with that type of moldings, though it does occur.

If you want the best possible result, I think you should go with bare wood and paint the moldings installed (at least the final coat).

But if you're going to install pre-painted moldings, a nail gun is almost necessary to get a good result. Another tip is to find moldings that are 15mm thick, so you hide the end grain on the baseboard, which tends to creep out at the baseboard-molding junction.

I always have the saw angled at 45 degrees to the left. I first cut the top piece with the painted side up, then turn it and mark where the other miter should be (on the back side of the piece) and cut it with the painted side down. That way, you avoid pencil marks, and it results in a nice cut in the inner corner.

I always install the top piece first and then miter the standing moldings. Then I turn them upside down and position them against the frame (carefully) and draw on the top of the top piece, so you avoid measuring and they are always perfect.

Hard to explain, but feel free to ask if you don't get it😉.
 
Stefan N said:
The nailing seems to have been done with 3" and not very neatly placed either.
No, it's 50 mm. Had to use extra nails in some places when it wasn't enough, I agree about the placement.
 
-MH- said:
It too. Can it be done much better, or should I be satisfied?
Yes, it can be done much better. If a craftsman had done it that way, he would not have been paid, and furthermore, he would be called out on the byggahus forum.
 
Okay, what should it look like then? Do you have any examples of what is acceptable?
 
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