Hello.
I was thinking of building a tool shed for all the garden tools that are currently scattered everywhere. It will be attached to the facade of the garage, 10cm above the ground. The shed will be under an overhanging roof. Since the house and garage are close to each other, no rain will get in, neither directly from above nor from the sides.
The plan was to build the frame with untreated wood and the sides with plywood. I've considered using treated wood, but I'd like to keep weight and cost down. Additionally, I want it as tight as possible. I plan to paint the shed with facade paint and, after reading here, also varnish with 2-component PU varnish.
In the shed, I thought of putting rakes, shovels, crowbars, trimmers, hedge shears, etc.
I've googled but unfortunately, I'm not any wiser. I'm testing here since I know you have a handle on things.
Would it work to use plywood that you paint and varnish?
Would it make a difference if you used oil-hardened plywood or similar?
Does it matter if the frame is made of treated wood if the sides are made of plywood?
I plan to use PL600 and silicone to make the shed as tight as possible. Is this necessary or is regular wood glue sufficient?
Should you think about anything when choosing paint (oil paint?), or is Falu red ugly but functional?
Is tongue and groove preferable over plywood?
Is it better if I use treated wood for everything?
(Another question. My initial plan was to build a shed where I could store everything related to the garden (minus the lawnmower). This also includes grass seeds and other dry goods. How much work would it be to build a shed where such dry goods can be stored year-round?)
I was thinking of building a tool shed for all the garden tools that are currently scattered everywhere. It will be attached to the facade of the garage, 10cm above the ground. The shed will be under an overhanging roof. Since the house and garage are close to each other, no rain will get in, neither directly from above nor from the sides.
The plan was to build the frame with untreated wood and the sides with plywood. I've considered using treated wood, but I'd like to keep weight and cost down. Additionally, I want it as tight as possible. I plan to paint the shed with facade paint and, after reading here, also varnish with 2-component PU varnish.
In the shed, I thought of putting rakes, shovels, crowbars, trimmers, hedge shears, etc.
I've googled but unfortunately, I'm not any wiser. I'm testing here since I know you have a handle on things.
Would it work to use plywood that you paint and varnish?
Would it make a difference if you used oil-hardened plywood or similar?
Does it matter if the frame is made of treated wood if the sides are made of plywood?
I plan to use PL600 and silicone to make the shed as tight as possible. Is this necessary or is regular wood glue sufficient?
Should you think about anything when choosing paint (oil paint?), or is Falu red ugly but functional?
Is tongue and groove preferable over plywood?
Is it better if I use treated wood for everything?
(Another question. My initial plan was to build a shed where I could store everything related to the garden (minus the lawnmower). This also includes grass seeds and other dry goods. How much work would it be to build a shed where such dry goods can be stored year-round?)
Best answer
Stick-builder
· Gävleborgs
· 2 434 posts
Jump the plywood and build with regular tongue and groove planks. You don't need pressure-treated lumber anywhere, so use regular.
Lacquer and silicone just sound crazy to me. If you want a tight shed, build with windproofing and insulation. And you don't need any lacquer if you have regular wood that you've painted.
Use the same color as your house; if you have Falu, go with that. It will probably be the most uniform.
Dry goods can be stored excellently, but if you want above freezing temperatures, you'll need some heating; otherwise, they can stand there anyway.
Lacquer and silicone just sound crazy to me. If you want a tight shed, build with windproofing and insulation. And you don't need any lacquer if you have regular wood that you've painted.
Use the same color as your house; if you have Falu, go with that. It will probably be the most uniform.
Dry goods can be stored excellently, but if you want above freezing temperatures, you'll need some heating; otherwise, they can stand there anyway.
Are you sure about those grass seeds? I had a bag of grass seed lying in a plastic bin under roof on the terrace over last winter here in Stockholm. They did not sprout this summer despite plenty of sun, soil, and water.
Alfredo said:
Stick-builder
· Gävleborgs
· 2 434 posts
Grass seeds are usually damaged by being in freezing temperatures.
Member
· Blekinge
· 12 235 posts
The shed will hover 10 cm above the ground, is that correct? Is it open underneath?
Why do you want to insulate it? The rake can withstand a bit of frost.
I would build it in the same material and color as the rest of the façade.
As for furniture, I recommend power outlets (for charging the lawn trimmer etc.) and can holders for beer.
Why do you want to insulate it? The rake can withstand a bit of frost.
I would build it in the same material and color as the rest of the façade.
As for furniture, I recommend power outlets (for charging the lawn trimmer etc.) and can holders for beer.
I don't know what applies "officially" for grass seeds but I used seeds about two months ago that had been in a cold storage over the winter, i.e. deep frozen, and they are growing like crazy.
Mine were newly bought last season but now there's no grass so I won't take the chance and store them outside again.
Alfredo said:
Excuse me. Forgot about this thread. Started my paternity leave and had other things on my mind. (Note to self: Turn on notifications).
Thank you very much for all the answers.
Tongue and groove wood definitely sounds like a better idea, which can then be covered with windproof paper.
Didn’t think about storing dry goods in airtight buckets either.
One question, though, is whether things like a gasoline-powered chainsaw, electric hedge trimmer/grass trimmer can handle below-zero temperatures for an entire winter? They could just as easily be stored in the garage, but it would be great to free up some space.
Thank you very much for all the answers.
Thank you very much for the answer. I had started thinking about a shed where all sides were made of plywood but with a pressure-treated deck roof. Also, each corner would be covered with decking. Didn't think as far as wood moving and gaps appearing.holmberg87 said:
Tongue and groove wood definitely sounds like a better idea, which can then be covered with windproof paper.
Didn’t think about storing dry goods in airtight buckets either.
One question, though, is whether things like a gasoline-powered chainsaw, electric hedge trimmer/grass trimmer can handle below-zero temperatures for an entire winter? They could just as easily be stored in the garage, but it would be great to free up some space.
The items you list do well in cold storage. Things to watch out for are those that contain water, e.g., pressure washers.
Plywood works well but aesthetically feels terrible. Build in the same style as the rest of your facade. If you are not going to insulate the space, there is no reason to try to make it airtight. It will still be damp (if you don't insulate and heat the space). There is also no reason to use pressure-treated wood under the conditions you describe.
Plywood works well but aesthetically feels terrible. Build in the same style as the rest of your facade. If you are not going to insulate the space, there is no reason to try to make it airtight. It will still be damp (if you don't insulate and heat the space). There is also no reason to use pressure-treated wood under the conditions you describe.
Falu rödfärg is incredibly good. I personally have such boards painted with rödfärg, and it lasts, I can promise you that. Go with that solution. It will be both cheap and nice if you mount bargeboards that you paint in a different color.
Yes, there are absolutely no problems. I have a "summer cottage" with several buildings that have been unheated, that is, deep-frozen, for many decades during winter. There, chainsaws, lawn mowers, motor-driven two-wheelers, home electronics, kitchen appliances, washing machines, power tools, and everything else normally found in a home in the countryside are stored. Works excellently.V vectrex said:
However, it is important to ensure that items like water heaters, toilets, water pipes, washing machines, pressure washers, and anything with water that can freeze and break are emptied. I usually fill the pressure washer with a few deciliters of concentrated windshield washer fluid in the fall, and it has worked without problems. However, I can imagine that a dishwasher might be very tricky to completely empty, but I don't have one in the countryside, so I lack practical experience there.
I am also going to build a tool shed. I have looked at ready-made ones at places like Jula, but I have the impression that they are too fragile and thin in dimensions. So I will build one from loose lumber, but I don't want to overdo it in terms of dimensions and quality. The size will be about 2 meters wide and 1 meter deep, with a roof height under 180cm. I read somewhere that you don't need a building permit for structures that are under 180cm. The question now is: can I use råspont as the exterior paneling? It is considerably cheaper than the fjällpanel and enfaspanel that Byggmax sells. So, frame up the walls, and then cover them with horizontal råspont.
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