working on planning a kind of training for young people in the forest.
we shall build a bow saw.
shall make a groove for the saw blade to lie in. have nothyvel (4mm works perfectly).
wondering if anyone can suggest something else?
making a groove with a saw is out. it becomes too narrow.
we shall build a bow saw.
shall make a groove for the saw blade to lie in. have nothyvel (4mm works perfectly).
wondering if anyone can suggest something else?
making a groove with a saw is out. it becomes too narrow.
Make a cut with the saw blade that should be in the tension saw. Then you can be sure that the cut won't be too narrow. If anything, it will be too wide due to the set. Make the cut with the blade attached to a cheap purchased bow saw if it's a bow saw blade. Or with a ready-made tension saw of the same type.
Otherwise, you probably want the slot to be as narrow as possible, narrower than the cut from the blade, so the saw blade has guidance. It can work well to just split the ends of the saw and bind them together with pressure against the blade.
Otherwise, you probably want the slot to be as narrow as possible, narrower than the cut from the blade, so the saw blade has guidance. It can work well to just split the ends of the saw and bind them together with pressure against the blade.
true. have thought about that too. but it tends to be a bit too narrow with the saw blade. considering running those pieces in the rip saw. so they skip a step. I personally made my saw with a Japanese saw and two cuts and a knife. ideally, we want to do everything in the forest. but thoughts are on borrowing a craft room two or three evenings.Adoby said:
Make a cut with the saw blade that will be in the frame saw. That way you can be sure the cut won't be too narrow. If anything, it will be too coarse because of the kerf. Make the cut with the blade attached in a cheap purchased bow saw, if it's a bow saw blade. Or with a finished frame saw of the same type.
Otherwise, you probably want as narrow a slot as possible, narrower than the saw cut from the blade, so that the saw blade gets guidance. It might work well to just cleave the ends of the saw and bind them together with pressure against the blade.
I have to explain that I have done some tests myself before.
Narrow track with the blade. Either debris in the track or the wood swells and "closes" the track.
Track with leather (to not make noise). The leather gets wet. Swells. A bit more rust. (Variant two leather extra greased. Sticky blade and problems with shavings)
Now it's bow saw and axe in a canvas cover that has a carrying strap. However, it can easily be attached to a backpack.
The older girls and boys in the group and I have tested my samples.
And they've come up with our best variant.
Right now they're making their own axe handles.
They use scrapers, drawknives, "spånhyvel".
And if anyone else wants to do this in a group, I recommend http://www.slojdfokus.se
Even though I supplemented with better cutting tools, we have bought a lot of material there.
Narrow track with the blade. Either debris in the track or the wood swells and "closes" the track.
Track with leather (to not make noise). The leather gets wet. Swells. A bit more rust. (Variant two leather extra greased. Sticky blade and problems with shavings)
Now it's bow saw and axe in a canvas cover that has a carrying strap. However, it can easily be attached to a backpack.
The older girls and boys in the group and I have tested my samples.
And they've come up with our best variant.
Right now they're making their own axe handles.
They use scrapers, drawknives, "spånhyvel".
And if anyone else wants to do this in a group, I recommend http://www.slojdfokus.se
Even though I supplemented with better cutting tools, we have bought a lot of material there.
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