Rickard. Rickard. said:
Laying it widthwise here is according to the manufacturer's recommendations, and laying it in the other direction with such felt is only recommended at high pitch. Professionals do not have such constraints, so most prefer the other direction when it suits. You can transfer quite a bit of knowledge between the different types, but not everything.

Pulling up the roofing felt that lies on the slab more than 10cm on the wall doesn't make much sense since the longitudinal flap has such an important role in keeping it tight right at the angle, and skipping it entirely would, in my opinion, be a big mistake. I think you're right to avoid seams along the length; it's also something for steeper roofs.
But it doesn't hurt to run longitudinal as far up the wall as possible, right?

The longitudinal ones are self-adhesive and then some special nails?

What dimensions should the flap have, and how do you secure it? Just asphalt adhesive?
 
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Rickard.
Though it doesn't hurt to lay them lengthwise as far up the wall as possible, does it?
Not more than being more work and you lose a bit of length from the pieces for the caps.

Are the lengthwise ones self-adhesive and then some special nails?
I don't understand what you mean.

What dimensions should the cap have and how do you attach it? Just asphalt adhesive?
I would say you screw them straight up from below where the sheet metal is now and then use as much adhesive as you feel necessary, a few lines on the wall and some down towards the roof, I'd assume.
 
I am thinking about the seam between the strips I lay across the width. In the description, I thought it said that they were self-adhesive and that you should press down the seam.

Do you use the full width of the strips for the covering? The leftover pieces from the strips will probably be about 2 meters long. It's a bit difficult to know what is "enough" asphalt adhesive when gluing them.
 
Rickard.
Yes, that's correct.

The cappings should extend 15cm out on the roof along the entire wall and the entire top, so they will constantly be different sizes and somewhat wedge-shaped as the ridges get lower. Adhesive down towards the roof should be clearly visible in the installation instructions, regarding their preferences, and for the rest, you go with your gut feeling 😉
 
Rickard. Rickard. said:
Yes, that's correct.

The caps should be 15cm over the roof on the entire wall and the whole top, so they end up being different sizes all the time and somewhat wedge-shaped as the ridges get lower.
Glue down against the roof should be clearly shown in the installation instructions regarding what they suggest, and for the rest, you go with your gut feeling 😉
Thanks, now I know how I should proceed.
Then, an underlayment should be applied underneath, right? Should it be laid across as well? With an upturn at the edges?
 
Rickard.
You probably don't need the underlay paper if you're not planning to tear off the existing paper. If you are planning to tear it off, lay the underlay paper first and foremost according to the installation instructions for the surface paper!!! and only where it doesn't cover, check the installation instructions for the underlay paper.
If you only follow the installation instructions for the underlay paper, it will be wrong.
 
Rickard. Rickard. said:
You probably don't need the underfelt unless you plan to tear off the felt that's there.
It's been leaking through the roof, so I need to remove it and probably replace the råspont in some places.
 
F Fredrik_1976 said:
There has been a leak through the roof, so I need to remove it and probably replace the råspont at some place
Should the underlay felt be laid in the same way with an upturn on the wall and in width?
 
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