If the space is limited, find out what is reasonable for the tiles to adhere well. I understand the desire to tile, as I also think it's nicer and more attractive in the environments you describe.
I have sealing layers in one of the rooms in the basement on all walls, including the outer walls. The outer walls are framed with moisture-resistant plasterboard and ventilated to allow moisture from the ground to escape. Regarding the interior walls, the intention is as follows: where it is made "tight" on one side of an interior wall, the other side is left open. The old, too-dense paint was removed. The surface was adjusted with plaster/putty and painted with 05 paint, i.e., matte paint, which is the most open standard paint. Silicate paint is considerably better, but it would have required much more work as all other walls would also have needed redoing. Instead, we removed the old paint on the bottom half meter and smoothed the surface and painted with 05. Ground moisture comes from the foundation and rises into the wall. That's why we did this at the bottom of other walls. Paint and plaster peeling usually occurs at the very bottom.
Now this is supplemented by keeping the basement dry with good dehumidification and a solution that ensures there is almost no stagnant air. The air in the basement is constantly moving at a negligible energy cost of 20 SEK/year. It was a challenge but not difficult once the solution was figured out. This ensures all spaces maintain the same climate, i.e., relative humidity and temperature. I now have a lower temperature in the basement than in the residence, which prevents basement air from rising into the house. The basement is odor-free, but it is unnecessary to keep it as warm as the living areas. When guests visit, I increase the temperature in the guest room, and the air circulation then passes through vents in the lower part of the doors. The ventilation is solved with natural draft, with exhaust via the chimney that used to handle the oil burner. There have been some "innovations" that have proven to work excellently.
Another thing many people miss because there is a peculiar belief that basement walls should be damp is that this is often not true. However, a basement wall with the wrong surface layer may have accumulated a lot of water since the moisture naturally coming from the ground has not penetrated the paint at the same rate as the water is supplied.
It's safest to measure the walls, but regardless, it is well worth the money to dry the walls thoroughly before applying new material, whether it's paint or tiles. The wall then normalizes to the natural flow of incoming moisture from below, which the new somewhat more open material then has a chance to manage.
Then a part of my climate solution in the basement is a combination of constant air movement and a duct-connected "hidden" dehumidifier that activates when the set value is reached. When the dehumidifier starts, it delivers extremely dry and warm air (about 35 degrees RH10-14% but often under 10% RH). The combination of heat and low relative humidity, according to someone, a law of gases in the world of physics, wants to equalize = mix. This means very little humid air reaches the foundation walls, and the moisture load from inside the house does not arise, effectively drying my house even inward.
Very few materials are gas-tight, i.e., do not allow any water in vapor phase = humid air, simply described. Keeping the interior of the basement dry means it also dries over time, for example, through old paint, as I have observed since periodically doing measurements since I bought the house. The walls I talk about had no moisture level issue or risk, but I have still conducted measurements to ensure they do not start to become damp. The result is that the measured value in these walls has halved since I implemented the solution. That is, it dries inward faster than the ground can supply ground moisture.
This phenomenon is not part of building experts' basic education
and several have said it surely can't work like this. Reseal, tear out, put in new, etc.
If you lay out a sketch of the floor plan with doors, doors, windows, vents, chimney if applicable, I can share my experiences. A hand-drawn sketch that you photograph with your mobile works perfectly.
I am a layman and do not give firm advice (which no one should do without having inspected on-site), but I provide ideas for you to evaluate. If you do not want to post on the forum, PM works.
Regarding keeping dry, it's not rocket science. Some say it's unnecessary as you will be using open materials, and some say it's dry, so proceed.
My view and experience are that it is worth every penny to ensure it is truly dry before building anew in the basement. If you need tips on how to keep it dry, ask.
Then it is my perception that very many basement houses would benefit from being kept drier than many do. The counterarguments are usually that it consumes energy, which is correct. At the same time, more energy is required to heat humid air and damp materials. But the most important effect is that by keeping it really dry inside, I reduce the risk of moisture damage. Once a basement has reached your set level, i.e., all material has dried to that level, the energy consumption in the examples I have seen has leveled off at a reasonable level. My house/basement was dry when I bought it, so what I have done is lower the level a bit further to ensure it remains dry with a margin. This, combined with getting the air circulating and adjusting the ventilation has provided the same air quality as in the rest of the house, according to others' sensitive noses.
I have sealing layers in one of the rooms in the basement on all walls, including the outer walls. The outer walls are framed with moisture-resistant plasterboard and ventilated to allow moisture from the ground to escape. Regarding the interior walls, the intention is as follows: where it is made "tight" on one side of an interior wall, the other side is left open. The old, too-dense paint was removed. The surface was adjusted with plaster/putty and painted with 05 paint, i.e., matte paint, which is the most open standard paint. Silicate paint is considerably better, but it would have required much more work as all other walls would also have needed redoing. Instead, we removed the old paint on the bottom half meter and smoothed the surface and painted with 05. Ground moisture comes from the foundation and rises into the wall. That's why we did this at the bottom of other walls. Paint and plaster peeling usually occurs at the very bottom.
Now this is supplemented by keeping the basement dry with good dehumidification and a solution that ensures there is almost no stagnant air. The air in the basement is constantly moving at a negligible energy cost of 20 SEK/year. It was a challenge but not difficult once the solution was figured out. This ensures all spaces maintain the same climate, i.e., relative humidity and temperature. I now have a lower temperature in the basement than in the residence, which prevents basement air from rising into the house. The basement is odor-free, but it is unnecessary to keep it as warm as the living areas. When guests visit, I increase the temperature in the guest room, and the air circulation then passes through vents in the lower part of the doors. The ventilation is solved with natural draft, with exhaust via the chimney that used to handle the oil burner. There have been some "innovations" that have proven to work excellently.
Another thing many people miss because there is a peculiar belief that basement walls should be damp is that this is often not true. However, a basement wall with the wrong surface layer may have accumulated a lot of water since the moisture naturally coming from the ground has not penetrated the paint at the same rate as the water is supplied.
It's safest to measure the walls, but regardless, it is well worth the money to dry the walls thoroughly before applying new material, whether it's paint or tiles. The wall then normalizes to the natural flow of incoming moisture from below, which the new somewhat more open material then has a chance to manage.
Then a part of my climate solution in the basement is a combination of constant air movement and a duct-connected "hidden" dehumidifier that activates when the set value is reached. When the dehumidifier starts, it delivers extremely dry and warm air (about 35 degrees RH10-14% but often under 10% RH). The combination of heat and low relative humidity, according to someone, a law of gases in the world of physics, wants to equalize = mix. This means very little humid air reaches the foundation walls, and the moisture load from inside the house does not arise, effectively drying my house even inward.
Very few materials are gas-tight, i.e., do not allow any water in vapor phase = humid air, simply described. Keeping the interior of the basement dry means it also dries over time, for example, through old paint, as I have observed since periodically doing measurements since I bought the house. The walls I talk about had no moisture level issue or risk, but I have still conducted measurements to ensure they do not start to become damp. The result is that the measured value in these walls has halved since I implemented the solution. That is, it dries inward faster than the ground can supply ground moisture.
This phenomenon is not part of building experts' basic education
and several have said it surely can't work like this. Reseal, tear out, put in new, etc.If you lay out a sketch of the floor plan with doors, doors, windows, vents, chimney if applicable, I can share my experiences. A hand-drawn sketch that you photograph with your mobile works perfectly.
I am a layman and do not give firm advice (which no one should do without having inspected on-site), but I provide ideas for you to evaluate. If you do not want to post on the forum, PM works.
Regarding keeping dry, it's not rocket science. Some say it's unnecessary as you will be using open materials, and some say it's dry, so proceed.
My view and experience are that it is worth every penny to ensure it is truly dry before building anew in the basement. If you need tips on how to keep it dry, ask.
Then it is my perception that very many basement houses would benefit from being kept drier than many do. The counterarguments are usually that it consumes energy, which is correct. At the same time, more energy is required to heat humid air and damp materials. But the most important effect is that by keeping it really dry inside, I reduce the risk of moisture damage. Once a basement has reached your set level, i.e., all material has dried to that level, the energy consumption in the examples I have seen has leveled off at a reasonable level. My house/basement was dry when I bought it, so what I have done is lower the level a bit further to ensure it remains dry with a margin. This, combined with getting the air circulating and adjusting the ventilation has provided the same air quality as in the rest of the house, according to others' sensitive noses.