Hello,
My tiler has just finished laying the kitchen floor with 45*45 rectified tiles. Very nice tiles if I may say so myself. ;D
Unfortunately, it seems he missed a bit with the joints.
In some places, they are 2mm and in others 5mm.
In some places, the edge of one tile is above the next tile's edge by 2-3 mm.
It's not supposed to be like this, right?? ???
The job is 100% official and a contract is in place.
However, there's nothing mentioned about how the joints should be, but rectified edges should mean minimal joints. At least an even joint across the entire tile.
How do I proceed? What are my options??
/Mats
My tiler has just finished laying the kitchen floor with 45*45 rectified tiles. Very nice tiles if I may say so myself. ;D
Unfortunately, it seems he missed a bit with the joints.
In some places, they are 2mm and in others 5mm.
In some places, the edge of one tile is above the next tile's edge by 2-3 mm.
It's not supposed to be like this, right?? ???
The job is 100% official and a contract is in place.
However, there's nothing mentioned about how the joints should be, but rectified edges should mean minimal joints. At least an even joint across the entire tile.
How do I proceed? What are my options??
/Mats
In order to refer to Hus-AMA, the codes must have been used in the procurement; otherwise, they don't apply. However, you can probably rely on practice, etc... But in 9 out of 10 cases, the joints are always a bit uneven. Then there are clearly limits to what is acceptable.Buddha said:Talk to the tiler and say what you think and feel.
Maybe there are large differences between the tiles, making it difficult/impossible to lay them perfectly. Sometimes there is an explanation, and sometimes amateurs have been at work.
If you can't agree, you can complain by referring to Hus-AMA and the tolerances specified there. Naturally, provided he is not within those.
Exactly what tolerance levels Hus-AMA has in the joint case, I don't know, but check under MBE 2.
Ok, thanks for the answers.
Shall talk to him tomorrow morning.
However, I think it's unnecessary to hire a craftsman if 9 out of 10 times the joint becomes crooked.
I could have ruined the floor much cheaper myself.
After all, I bought out marble nails for him so that it would sit 100% straight. Prussian straight!
Oh, right, MBE 2?? What is this and where do I find info about it?
/Mats
Shall talk to him tomorrow morning.
However, I think it's unnecessary to hire a craftsman if 9 out of 10 times the joint becomes crooked.
I could have ruined the floor much cheaper myself.
After all, I bought out marble nails for him so that it would sit 100% straight. Prussian straight!
Oh, right, MBE 2?? What is this and where do I find info about it?
/Mats
By crooked joints, I didn't mean drastically crooked, just that they are not 100% because it's more or less impossible. But they should be so you don't get annoyed by it... MBE 2 is a chapter in hus-ama. It specifically deals with ceramic tiles on floors. The tolerances should be listed in the MBE chapter as the first point before MBE.1 and MBE 2, possibly it's already under MB but I believe it's under MBE. Check your hus-ama or ask someone who has it to check for you. Unfortunately, I can't access it today but under Monday so no one gets ahead maybe I can take the time to check what the tolerances are...mats99 said:Ok, thanks for the answers.
I will talk to him tomorrow morning.
However, I think it's unnecessary to hire a craftsman if 9 out of 10 times the joint becomes crooked. Then I could have ruined the floor myself much cheaper.
I did, after all, buy marmor nails for him to ensure it sits 100% straight. Prussian straight!
Oh yes, MBE 2?? What is this and where can I find information about it?
/Mats
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