Wow! Fast moves!
I'm looking to make a wall (made of lecablock) look like concrete (or a similar look).
I've been advised that Tadelakt could be an option. However, apart from stylish pictures, I haven't been able to find any good information about the material or where to buy it.
I'm looking to make a wall (made of lecablock) look like concrete (or a similar look).
I've been advised that Tadelakt could be an option. However, apart from stylish pictures, I haven't been able to find any good information about the material or where to buy it.
Construction veteran
· Skåne
· 8 posts
Based on the desired end result, I would probably go more for Beton Ciré. Because it is cheaper and you can really make it look like cast concrete. Tadelakt is perhaps a bit too elegant to look like cast concrete. Plus, Beton Ciré is cheaper and with some plastering experience, you can probably manage it yourself, which is not the case with Tadelakt.
Tadelakt requires a lot of knowledge and several special tools, while Beton Ciré requires a bit of plastering experience and a trowel.
Tadelakt is applied with a thickness of about 3 - 6 mm depending on the effect you want to achieve. (thicker = more cracking)
Beton Ciré is applied with a thickness of about 1 mm, which places high demands on the smoothness of the substrate. I would prime with a fiber mesh reinforced thin plaster. After some sanding on the dry base coat, apply primer for adhesion and to prevent it from drying too quickly while you work with it.
I won't write a novel, but now you might have an idea of what you can proceed with.
I work with both materials and buy them in Uppsala from my dealer there. I think they are the only ones selling original Tadelakt and Beton Ciré. I don't know if I'm allowed to mention the company here, but if you google "tadelakt," you'll find my page, and there's a link to the dealer. (I hope I'm not breaking any rules now)
Tadelakt requires a lot of knowledge and several special tools, while Beton Ciré requires a bit of plastering experience and a trowel.
Tadelakt is applied with a thickness of about 3 - 6 mm depending on the effect you want to achieve. (thicker = more cracking)
Beton Ciré is applied with a thickness of about 1 mm, which places high demands on the smoothness of the substrate. I would prime with a fiber mesh reinforced thin plaster. After some sanding on the dry base coat, apply primer for adhesion and to prevent it from drying too quickly while you work with it.
I won't write a novel, but now you might have an idea of what you can proceed with.
I work with both materials and buy them in Uppsala from my dealer there. I think they are the only ones selling original Tadelakt and Beton Ciré. I don't know if I'm allowed to mention the company here, but if you google "tadelakt," you'll find my page, and there's a link to the dealer. (I hope I'm not breaking any rules now)
Construction veteran
· Skåne
· 8 posts
Beton Ciré is around 300,- per square meter I think, just the material. Then it depends on which pigment is mixed in. For a concrete look, it's a black pigment that you only need a tiny amount of.
It takes about 1 liter per sqm.
(my page is the one that appears at the top when you google "tadelakt")
It takes about 1 liter per sqm.
(my page is the one that appears at the top when you google "tadelakt")
Construction veteran
· Skåne
· 8 posts
Yes, indeed it is. 
Glad to hear the article is appreciated.
I just tested the email, and it went through as expected. Both through the contact form and by manually entering the address in an email client.
Glad to hear the article is appreciated.I just tested the email, and it went through as expected. Both through the contact form and by manually entering the address in an email client.
I googled around a bit after the article..
I might be a bit sold too... http://www.tadelakt.se/images/phocagallery/Holland_Harlingen/thumbs/phoca_thumb_l_img_0104.jpg
this was a lovely surface. I need to try to get it in the shower in the basement.
Can you plaster with regular mortar on leca to even it out and then apply tadelakt
saw this and it doesn't look too difficult..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wvf2UGMnjuE
If you want to make boards, can you use "reinforced polystyrene boards" will it be stable enough?
I might be a bit sold too... http://www.tadelakt.se/images/phocagallery/Holland_Harlingen/thumbs/phoca_thumb_l_img_0104.jpg
this was a lovely surface. I need to try to get it in the shower in the basement.
Can you plaster with regular mortar on leca to even it out and then apply tadelakt
saw this and it doesn't look too difficult..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wvf2UGMnjuE
If you want to make boards, can you use "reinforced polystyrene boards" will it be stable enough?
Construction veteran
· Skåne
· 8 posts
@Krillew. Sure, you can apply a base coat with regular mortar. The important thing, however, is that it has a rough surface. Tadelakt needs a "mechanical key" to adhere well to the substrate. You could say it isn't very sticky by itself. I usually use a piazava broom head and stipple into the wet base mortar.
Avoid the "reinforced Styrofoam boards." When pressing with the stone, the boards can give way locally and cause uncontrolled cracking. It is of utmost importance that the substrate is vibration-free.
The plaster in the video is a modern product composed of five different types of lime. It has been further developed since the video was made, and that technique is no longer used. Original tadelakt is a type of lime from Morocco.
Avoid the "reinforced Styrofoam boards." When pressing with the stone, the boards can give way locally and cause uncontrolled cracking. It is of utmost importance that the substrate is vibration-free.
The plaster in the video is a modern product composed of five different types of lime. It has been further developed since the video was made, and that technique is no longer used. Original tadelakt is a type of lime from Morocco.
Tadelaktman, a few questions for you as an expert
1 How does it work with wet room regulations and tadelakt? Approved?
2 What board material do you use for e.g. washbasins, kitchen countertops etc. if it needs to be rigid?
3 Stone, is it something similar? http://www.decomaterial.se/web/produkter/stone/
4 Is any of these concrete-like materials suitable for a hallway floor?
5 Can you handle the job yourself if you're fairly handy?
Hope you have the energy to answer Seems like really awesome materials.
1 How does it work with wet room regulations and tadelakt? Approved?
2 What board material do you use for e.g. washbasins, kitchen countertops etc. if it needs to be rigid?
3 Stone, is it something similar? http://www.decomaterial.se/web/produkter/stone/
4 Is any of these concrete-like materials suitable for a hallway floor?
5 Can you handle the job yourself if you're fairly handy?
Hope you have the energy to answer
Seems like really awesome materials.
Construction veteran
· Skåne
· 8 posts
@Jeppeknaster.
1. In the bathroom, you use approved waterproofing underneath. Prime with tile adhesive before tadelakt. Just tadelakt is not approved, so the waterproofing must be included.
2. I glue and screw several wet room panels or Minerit boards for horizontal surfaces. Otherwise, I use aerated concrete blocks as far as possible.
3. Stone is similar in that you get a seamless surface. Aesthetically, there is a big difference in my opinion. With tadelakt, you get more depth and a smoother surface that also breathes. Tadelakt also prevents algae growth. Stone is sealed with hard wax oil or similar to withstand moisture. However, stone is harder and can handle some vibration. Stone is more forgiving when mixing pigments because the colors come out stronger than in tadelakt. In stone, you can mix up to 50% pigment, while in tadelakt, you can only mix a maximum of 10%. This is because in stone, the binder is a latex liquid, while in tadelakt it is lime itself.
4. For a hallway floor, I would not use tadelakt because it is pure lime plaster that doesn't become very hard. Stone is excellent for that purpose. On a hallway floor, I would "stippling" the material to get a slightly rougher non-slip surface. "Stippling," wait a short while, and then smooth with a trowel.
5. Stone or Claystone you could probably work with yourself, I believe. It's a bit stressful because it dries quickly due to the thin application.
Hope you got your answers.
Good luck!
1. In the bathroom, you use approved waterproofing underneath. Prime with tile adhesive before tadelakt. Just tadelakt is not approved, so the waterproofing must be included.
2. I glue and screw several wet room panels or Minerit boards for horizontal surfaces. Otherwise, I use aerated concrete blocks as far as possible.
3. Stone is similar in that you get a seamless surface. Aesthetically, there is a big difference in my opinion. With tadelakt, you get more depth and a smoother surface that also breathes. Tadelakt also prevents algae growth. Stone is sealed with hard wax oil or similar to withstand moisture. However, stone is harder and can handle some vibration. Stone is more forgiving when mixing pigments because the colors come out stronger than in tadelakt. In stone, you can mix up to 50% pigment, while in tadelakt, you can only mix a maximum of 10%. This is because in stone, the binder is a latex liquid, while in tadelakt it is lime itself.
4. For a hallway floor, I would not use tadelakt because it is pure lime plaster that doesn't become very hard. Stone is excellent for that purpose. On a hallway floor, I would "stippling" the material to get a slightly rougher non-slip surface. "Stippling," wait a short while, and then smooth with a trowel.
5. Stone or Claystone you could probably work with yourself, I believe. It's a bit stressful because it dries quickly due to the thin application.
Hope you got your answers.
Good luck!
Thank you so much for your quick response. I'm going down to Uppsala over midsummer, so I will visit Deco material & design to look at the products in person and maybe buy some materials to test. The idea is to get a surface as similar to polished concrete as possible. If it turns out well, I might want it in the bathrooms too...
Can this be used for a kitchen counter? What should it be treated with in that case?
I am sensitive to chemicals so we need to avoid as many chemicals and emissions as possible.
This seems to be a solution that might work.
I am sensitive to chemicals so we need to avoid as many chemicals and emissions as possible.
This seems to be a solution that might work.