We are going to build a machine hall with dimensions of 12x9.6 and need a 12m span for the trusses (a 27-degree pitch allows the snow to fall off the sides, or is more required?). What I wonder is what grade of lumber I will need to support everything? 145x45(+45x45 lying inside) 60cc.?
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· Västernorrland
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With those measurements, it's probably necessary to do a proper calculation and not just guess.
Yes, exactly, was just wondering if there's anyone who happens to have calculation programs or similar.
For a building permit, you need a construction drawing with calculations.
There are quick guides. For example, Svenskt Trä.
There you state Class C24 with dimensions 45*220 at 12m
http://www.svenskttra.se/MediaBinar...e_FileID=0fbb3079-0d41-4e9e-8800-0728dbeb723c
There are quick guides. For example, Svenskt Trä.
There you state Class C24 with dimensions 45*220 at 12m
http://www.svenskttra.se/MediaBinar...e_FileID=0fbb3079-0d41-4e9e-8800-0728dbeb723c
Thanks for the link, I've been looking at the svensktträ website but just got dizzy.. Good cheat sheet! I wonder if I phrased the question a bit silly, I was thinking about the studs for the outer walls, what class they should have, and thickness?
The dimensions of the wall studs are almost always as they are because you want to fit in enough insulation. I would guess that 45x95 is enough, but it depends on many things, such as the height of the walls and if they are to be covered with panels or similar!
145 + 45 was what I was thinking, most of the heat goes through the roof I've heard so you should insulate well there 
Was thinking of having about 3.8m ceiling height, planning to add a car lift in the future. Saw in the table a max height of 2.5m for such trusses, what is needed for higher walls? What are the standard lengths of studs around that height in most stores? Will use metal sheeting both outside and inside, and on the roof.
As someone wise said: you insulate once, but pay for heating for the rest of your life.
As someone wise said: you insulate once, but pay for heating for the rest of your life.
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That's an old persistent myth. Heat does not rise, but warm air does. As long as it is sealed (diffusionsplast), the amount of energy leaking through the roof will only be negligibly higher than through the walls (because it's slightly warmer near the roof than at the wall on average).m800sweden said:
However, it is often easier to insulate the roof than the wall since you don't steal any floor space.
If you buy the chairs, you will receive CE and construction drawings as well as the calculations for the building permits "included."
If you make them yourself, you need to have a constructor or equivalent to certify it.
If you make them yourself, you need to have a constructor or equivalent to certify it.
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