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Strongest anchoring in load-bearing beam
I haven't quite figured out how the joint will look. The basic order arriving in week 2 of the build contains enough anchor screws and (regular) 2x60x200 hole plates to handle all the "vertical" joints. Now, I'm way too much of an amateur (engineer but the "wrong kind"...) to understand if that's enough or if I need a better solution. The beams are considered continuous as they rest over three supports and will be screwed and glued, so maybe I don't need to worry.J JF. said:
/Göran
I think that's sufficient, but I'm an amateur too. What thickness have you chosen for the decking? I chose 34mm to be on the safe side to counteract flex.Sharky58 said:
I haven't quite figured out how the joint will look. The basic order arriving in week 2 of the build contains enough anchor screws and (regular) 2x60x200 metal plates to manage all the "vertical" joints. I am far too much of an amateur (an engineer but "the wrong kind"...) to understand if that's sufficient or if I need a better solution. The beams will be regarded as continuous since they are laid over three supports and are screwed-glued, so maybe I don't need to worry.
/Göran
34x145 untreated core decking (it's actually not "my" construction - I'm acting as a designer for my daughter and son-in-law and will oversee the work on site).J JF. said:
Here's what the decking layout looks like:

Glass railing all around with white 110x110 laminated timber posts with through holes for cables to recessed lamps in each post. White painted skirt all around. And a 2.4 meter wide semi-recessed staircase down to a lower deck that is 2.3 meters below the large deck.
/Göran
That's going to look great! Actually chose to skip heart pine at the last second and went for pressure-treated decking instead due to longevity. Good luck with the buildSharky58 said:
34x145 untreated core decking (it's not really "my" project - I'm acting as a designer for my daughter and son-in-law and will be leading the work on-site).
This is what the decking layout looks like:
[image]
Glass railing all around with white 110x110 laminated timber posts with through holes for cable to recessed lights in each post. White painted skirt all around. And a 2.4-meter wide semi-recessed staircase down to a lower deck that is 2.3 meters below the large deck.
/Göran
I have always chosen to use double studs for my posts and placed the splice of the load-bearing beam in the middle of the same construction.
Quick, easier to work with than just thick posts, and it turns out good!

Quick, easier to work with than just thick posts, and it turns out good!
Nice! But I have double 45x220, so I can't do exactly like in the picture. But thanks for the input.slacker said:
I have three-meter high posts so to manage snow load and elephants I chose 90x90 glued laminated timber on the front rows of posts. Additionally, the splice for the floor joists is over a bearer and in that case, I want 45 + 45mm support in the splice. In my construction, the bearers closest to the house are single 45s with the same solution as you have. I have a post distance of 1600 for practical reasons, i.e., the dimensions matched well, and I can keep the same measurements for all rows and for both decks (the back edge of the lower deck hangs on the same posts as the upper deck).slacker said:
/Göran
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