This is a much more difficult project than one might think at first glance. You should have had more competent advice from the beginning. I write this more with regard to everyone else who follows the thread and has similar thoughts. 1/4 span is probably not optimal. Then the beam height starts to increase again but for other reasons. All glass sections need to sit in some form of frame, which ideally should not take any loads. I see no problem solving this in your case.
I completely agree, even though I realized some of the issues, I was still quite naive when I entered the project. I should have brought in someone competent from the beginning.J justusandersson said:
Can you elaborate a bit on the issue with the 1/4 span width? Are we talking about large increases in beam height? Just to clarify, I mean building up with 4 posts; post - 1/4 span width - post - 1/2 span width - post - 1/4 span width - post.
No, not with that setup. I thought you meant they would cantilever out 1/4 span.
Do you have any more drawings that we can access? What we have seen so far is that the consultant has not delivered professionally executed documents, there are far too many deficiencies. According to themselves, they work according to ABK09, and they should at their own expense rectify errors in the delivered documents. You may also be entitled to compensation for costs arising due to the faulty documentation.
Interesting, I will review the contract more closely when I have a bit more time. The problem is that I've lost confidence in their competence and way of working, so I need to consider whether it's worth continuing to fight to get a good solution from them.B bossespecial said:
I'll send the drawings I have via private message; if anyone else is curious, just let me know.
Maybe it's worth trying to give them a second chance? It seems their business idea is based on quick actions at a fixed price. It might be that the time constraints have led them to take some shortcuts?A attefall said:
Yes, maybe.. However, in parallel, I want to find a few different ideas for solutions myself so I can at least compare and better understand, as well as be better prepared if they still fail to deliver something sensible.B bossespecial said:
I chose a pressure-treated 45x120 that was mounted against the L-support at the correct height, and poured chamfers in the concrete.A attefall said:
But you can also scrape away the concrete just after it stops flowing and starts to set; you have about an hour, then you have to use the diamond saw.
Have tried to read up on ceiling height and see that the requirement for 2.4m is quite strong. But there are some exceptions, including 2.3m for an attic floor (https://www.boverket.se/sv/PBL-kunskapsbanken/regler-om-byggande/boverkets-byggregler/rumshojd/)
The question then is what is defined as an attic floor? Is it always the floor closest to the outer roof, then the extension becomes an attic floor? =) If it can now be considered that the space under a flat roof can be an attic floor?
EDIT: Created a thread about this as it might be interesting as a topic in itself https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/definition-av-vindsvaning-foer-rumshoejd.382898/
The question then is what is defined as an attic floor? Is it always the floor closest to the outer roof, then the extension becomes an attic floor? =) If it can now be considered that the space under a flat roof can be an attic floor?
EDIT: Created a thread about this as it might be interesting as a topic in itself https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/definition-av-vindsvaning-foer-rumshoejd.382898/
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Hehe, I don't think the extension can be considered an attic
An alternative might be to slope the roof, which would at least give a bit more ceiling height towards the existing house, less at the sections?
In the gable of the house, where a substantial opening is also made, should be reviewed as well. For example, a column should be added, partly to reduce beam height, but also to prevent the existing house corner from being subjected to large point loads. Alternatively, the supports for the extension can be placed on the new slab in the extension. Do you have any construction drawings of the existing house, do you know how it is founded?
An alternative might be to slope the roof, which would at least give a bit more ceiling height towards the existing house, less at the sections?
In the gable of the house, where a substantial opening is also made, should be reviewed as well. For example, a column should be added, partly to reduce beam height, but also to prevent the existing house corner from being subjected to large point loads. Alternatively, the supports for the extension can be placed on the new slab in the extension. Do you have any construction drawings of the existing house, do you know how it is founded?
Hehe, no, probably not. But so far I haven't found any official definition. Wikipedia states "is the part of a house that is located just under the house's outer roof."B bossespecial said:Hehe, I don't think the extension can be considered an attic floor
An alternative might be to pitch the roof a bit to get some more ceiling height towards the existing house, less at the ends?
Yes, I'm considering tilting it a bit. Might be a way to go.
Unfortunately, there are no construction drawings, only an old construction description for a similar house that the neighbors have. It states the following:B bossespecial said:
Basement walls:
Basement outer wall concrete hollow block 20cm
Load-bearing basement inner wall 20cm
Interior load-bearing wall:
35-73 mm standing
studs c/c 400 mm with 13 cm plasterboards on either side.
Floor structure
Ground floor structure:
19 cm Erge-beam, 5cm concrete slab, 6cm mineral wool slab, 3 cm gravel, 5cm top concrete layer
Do you have a basement or crawl space?
Okay, then do you have the opportunity to reinforce the existing foundation as well during the expansion?