What will you have above the garage, on the loft that is?
Storage or living/workshop space?
Will there be flooring? Insulation?
Storage or living/workshop space?
Will there be flooring? Insulation?
Yes, they are trusses of the framework type, meaning an attic floor.
I was thinking of making a cold storage but I'm considering more and more to insulate and furnish a small part.
Loose fill insulation in the intermediate floor, and some sort of flooring on top...
however, not in the attic crawlspaces I think...
I was thinking of making a cold storage but I'm considering more and more to insulate and furnish a small part.
Loose fill insulation in the intermediate floor, and some sort of flooring on top...
however, not in the attic crawlspaces I think...
You can absolutely space with 21mm boards if you have 600mm cc between the subframes. End joint if you want to splice wherever you like. 28mm spacing is required at 1200mm cc between the subframes (standard cc for trusses). If you use 900mm wide gypsum, I also think it works to set the spacing at 450mm cc. Then you save even more money and also time.
The nice thing about using 600mm wide ceiling gypsum is that they become more manageable and the beveled edges don't require spackling since they are meant to be visible in the finished ceiling. These panels are typically offset by 1200mm on the short sides (if the length of the panels is 2400mm) so that a rectangular pattern is formed in the finished ceiling.
The nice thing about using 600mm wide ceiling gypsum is that they become more manageable and the beveled edges don't require spackling since they are meant to be visible in the finished ceiling. These panels are typically offset by 1200mm on the short sides (if the length of the panels is 2400mm) so that a rectangular pattern is formed in the finished ceiling.
If you are going to furnish above the garage, you should probably have double drywall to meet the IE30 fire protection requirements, I will look more into this for my own part but I think you should have stone wool insulation and probably double drywall in the walls as well (you might avoid this if you have exterior drywall instead of windbreaker) for the garage.
Is it standalone? And if so, how many meters from the house (there is a limit at 4 meters)
Is it standalone? And if so, how many meters from the house (there is a limit at 4 meters)
Very informative, Jc1972!
But I'm wondering about the double gypsum for fire protection. (It's also a cost)
Can you replace the sparsely spaced wooden batten with steel profiles instead of double gypsum?
Or, or...
With loose-fill insulation between the rafters, mineral wool that is, it's fireproof, except maybe the rafters themselves.
What do you think Jc? It feels cumbersome with double gypsum in the ceiling.
But I'm wondering about the double gypsum for fire protection. (It's also a cost)
Can you replace the sparsely spaced wooden batten with steel profiles instead of double gypsum?
Or, or...
With loose-fill insulation between the rafters, mineral wool that is, it's fireproof, except maybe the rafters themselves.
What do you think Jc? It feels cumbersome with double gypsum in the ceiling.
I have read a bit more about EI30 now, it might be enough with single gypsum board if you have at least 45mm? mineral wool as well, but loose wool is not sufficient; it must be slabs. I have 145mm thick insulation between the rafters.
It might be possible in that case to lay a layer of slabs at least 45mm and then loose wool on top.
Note: glass wool is not sufficient; it must be rock wool.
The rafter itself is made of wood, and wood withstands one minute of fire per mm, and EI30 stands for withstanding fire for 30 minutes, so 30mm of wood withstands for 30 minutes.
It might be possible in that case to lay a layer of slabs at least 45mm and then loose wool on top.
Note: glass wool is not sufficient; it must be rock wool.
The rafter itself is made of wood, and wood withstands one minute of fire per mm, and EI30 stands for withstanding fire for 30 minutes, so 30mm of wood withstands for 30 minutes.
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KnockOnWood:
I'm not very knowledgeable about fire safety, but I remember being involved in building small multi-family houses in wood where we achieved EI30 in the attic floor with only one 13mm gypsum board and loose-fill (stone wool). You can replace the gypsum board with a layer of fire-rated gypsum board (e.g., Gyproc ProtectF) and get a higher classification. I don't think changing the battens from wood to metal makes a difference.
I'm a bit curious if it's a formal requirement to fireproof the current floor or if it's just that the original poster (TS) wants to do it for some reason. Normally, there aren't fire requirements within the same dwelling, for example, between floors and attic floors in villas.
I'm not very knowledgeable about fire safety, but I remember being involved in building small multi-family houses in wood where we achieved EI30 in the attic floor with only one 13mm gypsum board and loose-fill (stone wool). You can replace the gypsum board with a layer of fire-rated gypsum board (e.g., Gyproc ProtectF) and get a higher classification. I don't think changing the battens from wood to metal makes a difference.
I'm a bit curious if it's a formal requirement to fireproof the current floor or if it's just that the original poster (TS) wants to do it for some reason. Normally, there aren't fire requirements within the same dwelling, for example, between floors and attic floors in villas.
The fire requirements are probably because it's a garage in question. I have it attached to a single-story house, so I have to have EI30, and the door between the house part and the garage must also be EI30 and have a door closer so that one doesn't forget to close it.
Whether he has it attached to the house, I don't know, but there was some mention of possibly furnishing above the garage.
If you have a detached garage at least 4 meters from the house, no extra fire protection is needed.
Whether he has it attached to the house, I don't know, but there was some mention of possibly furnishing above the garage.
If you have a detached garage at least 4 meters from the house, no extra fire protection is needed.
I had not realized that it was about a garage that is attached to a residence. In that case, EI30 applies for the separating wall and ceiling. However, as mentioned, a plasterboard in the attic floor is still sufficient. If it were a detached garage where TS wants to create living space above the attic floor, I believe the same requirements apply.
Shouldn't the single gypsum board also be combined with mineral wool? + 45mm insulation read this here https://www.byggahus.se/forum/bygglov/74478-brandsakerhetsklass-ei-30-a.html?perpage=15#post508742Jc1972 said:
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S
SueCia
Electronics enthusiast
· Dalarna
· 5 536 posts
SueCia
Electronics enthusiast
- Dalarna
- 5,536 posts
I don't understand why you would want the electricity on the surface? If you have the walls and ceiling open, you should put pipes everywhere. I completely renovated my garage last year, and it was certainly over 200 meters of conduit for a garage measuring 8x5 meters.
It looks terribly ugly with surface-mounted cables for everything you need in the garage, including alarms, fire alarms, lighting, wall outlets, 3-phase outlets, etc.
The only thing you should keep in mind is to make sure you don't run any conduit in the ceiling where a potential motorized door could be installed; you don't want to screw into the conduit
It looks terribly ugly with surface-mounted cables for everything you need in the garage, including alarms, fire alarms, lighting, wall outlets, 3-phase outlets, etc.
The only thing you should keep in mind is to make sure you don't run any conduit in the ceiling where a potential motorized door could be installed; you don't want to screw into the conduit
you never know where you want all the sockets, fixtures, etc.SueCia said:I don't understand why you would want exposed wiring. If your walls and ceiling are open, you should install conduits everywhere. I completely renovated my garage last year, probably used over 200 meters of conduit in a garage that's 8x5 meters.
It becomes incredibly ugly with exposed cables for everything you need in the garage, including alarms, smoke detectors, lighting, outlets, 3-phase sockets, etc. etc.
The only thing to keep in mind is to make sure you don't run any conduits in the ceiling where a potential motorized door could be installed; you don't want to screw into the conduit
but of course, run as much as possible hidden, and then complement if needed...
feel free to link to any wiring in garages, or instructions for one...