hi!
I have trusses in the garage on cc600
I plan to install 1 layer of ceiling plasterboard
I intend to install 28x70 on cc300 - will that work well?
I saw that my wood supplier has end-jointed 28x70, can I join these in the "air" (provided the joints are staggered) or should I cut and join on the truss anyway?
how do you usually run electricity etc. in the garage ceiling?
it is about 130 m2 with a ceiling height of 4.4 meters...
I have trusses in the garage on cc600
I plan to install 1 layer of ceiling plasterboard
I intend to install 28x70 on cc300 - will that work well?
I saw that my wood supplier has end-jointed 28x70, can I join these in the "air" (provided the joints are staggered) or should I cut and join on the truss anyway?
how do you usually run electricity etc. in the garage ceiling?
it is about 130 m2 with a ceiling height of 4.4 meters...
You can probably splice freely between the rafters, but not two splices in width without a couple of intermediate "whole" gaps.
You should ideally run the wiring in the ceiling in the space created by the sparse paneling.
Otherwise, I personally like to run the wiring externally in the auxiliary buildings.
You should ideally run the wiring in the ceiling in the space created by the sparse paneling.
Otherwise, I personally like to run the wiring externally in the auxiliary buildings.
roughly as I thought,
both with sparse and with electricity that will probably be exposed.
how much better is it with double gypsum in the ceiling? it gets much heavier with double gypsum anyway, 1400 kg vs 2800 kg roughly...
I guess you should tape and joint compound like indoors... puuuh what a job for 135 m2
both with sparse and with electricity that will probably be exposed.
how much better is it with double gypsum in the ceiling? it gets much heavier with double gypsum anyway, 1400 kg vs 2800 kg roughly...
I guess you should tape and joint compound like indoors... puuuh what a job for 135 m2
Better in what aspect then?camaro1969 said:
You use double drywall if you are going to tile or for soundproofing purposes on walls.
What benefit would it give for the garage ceiling?
fire protection I thought..
You don't need to fill the joints on ceiling drywall; the boards have beveled edges and are intended to have visible seams.
I have a similar project ahead of me where I'm going to install ceiling drywall in a garage with a 45-degree roof angle and a 5.5-meter ridge height. Since I'm not too particular about the finish in the garage, I plan to paint the drywall with ceiling paint before installation and have a can of white wood filler on hand during installation, so I can fill the screw heads immediately. It's not fun to paint ceilings at high altitude...
Regards, Magnus
I have a similar project ahead of me where I'm going to install ceiling drywall in a garage with a 45-degree roof angle and a 5.5-meter ridge height. Since I'm not too particular about the finish in the garage, I plan to paint the drywall with ceiling paint before installation and have a can of white wood filler on hand during installation, so I can fill the screw heads immediately. It's not fun to paint ceilings at high altitude...
Regards, Magnus
I am thinking of using regular gypsum 1200*2400/2500
that should work just as well, right?
that should work just as well, right?
I also think it's a good idea to use boards where all four edges are beveled if you're going to install "regular" gypsum. In my opinion, it's much nicer with a smooth ceiling (which you get with "regular" boards and plastering), but I agree, "phew what a job on 135 m2."
However, I believe you save some money by skipping ceiling gypsum boards, I think regular boards are about half the price per square meter(?).
However, I believe you save some money by skipping ceiling gypsum boards, I think regular boards are about half the price per square meter(?).
MEEN
do I really need such thick timber as 28x70 for spacing when I have the rafters at cc600
couldn't I just use regular paneling, like 21x70 instead? It's about 2:- per meter less, which saves 1000:- on this project...
do I really need such thick timber as 28x70 for spacing when I have the rafters at cc600
couldn't I just use regular paneling, like 21x70 instead? It's about 2:- per meter less, which saves 1000:- on this project...
See no direct problems with it - You will support with cc30 which makes it quite bearable in any case.
Then I would have, personally, i.e. if you don't have a panel lift, chosen to work with 900 panels instead of 1200 - They are heavy indeed!
A screw gun is recommended.
Then I would have, personally, i.e. if you don't have a panel lift, chosen to work with 900 panels instead of 1200 - They are heavy indeed!
A screw gun is recommended.
or can there be sagging between the rafters over time if you use weaker timber?
Need and need...camaro1969 said:
c-c 600 between the truss bottom chords/roof joists is "standard", as well as 28x70 spacing battens.
What is a thousand on this huge build?
isn't cc1200 standard between rafters?
that's why my "idea" came up that I had double the density and therefore could use sparser wood.
a thousand kronor doesn't do much... but a thousand kronor on each step in the construction adds up to a lot of money... many small streams...
that's why my "idea" came up that I had double the density and therefore could use sparser wood.
a thousand kronor doesn't do much... but a thousand kronor on each step in the construction adds up to a lot of money... many small streams...