Wondering if there was some form of method to let liquid flow but which stops mechanical waves between the metal pipes. And that isn't affected by a properly high supply temperature.S sjoelund said:
The simplest thing is that it is airtight between the rooms. That is, gaps between studs and boards covered by a strip, gaps around doors, etc.
There are kits with extra rubber strips for doors.
You can also put up an additional wall inside the wall with an air gap in between. As for insulation, I've heard that you get the best effect if there is air in it and it is not tightly packed. Then it certainly helps if you, for example, use double drywall.
Something else that is simple and looks quite good is if you put up acoustic panels. They have good sound-dampening properties if you buy a good quality brand. Keep it up!
There are kits with extra rubber strips for doors.
You can also put up an additional wall inside the wall with an air gap in between. As for insulation, I've heard that you get the best effect if there is air in it and it is not tightly packed. Then it certainly helps if you, for example, use double drywall.
Something else that is simple and looks quite good is if you put up acoustic panels. They have good sound-dampening properties if you buy a good quality brand. Keep it up!
Some video information in case Google removes it:
https://yewtu.be/watch?v=t_OBkw01X4I - Akustik enligt LN: Soundproofing - Introduction (2017-11-20)
These seem relevant to the thread:
https://yewtu.be/watch?v=2cn3puBvfvU - Akustik enligt LN: Soundproofing - Walls & Construction (2018-03-05)
https://yewtu.be/watch?v=tRdvNUtmVMU - Akustik enligt LN: Soundproofing - Doors and Windows (2017-12-07)
https://yewtu.be/watch?v=t_OBkw01X4I - Akustik enligt LN: Soundproofing - Introduction (2017-11-20)
These seem relevant to the thread:
https://yewtu.be/watch?v=2cn3puBvfvU - Akustik enligt LN: Soundproofing - Walls & Construction (2018-03-05)
https://yewtu.be/watch?v=tRdvNUtmVMU - Akustik enligt LN: Soundproofing - Doors and Windows (2017-12-07)
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Many good answers in the thread. What you need is weight in the walls and ceiling and to ensure they are airtight. The smallest crack lets sound through. (Try opening a window and closing it slowly, you can hear it from outside even when it's just half a millimeter from being closed. It's only when it's completely closed that the sound is maximally dampened.)
With an air gap between walls, you don't need as much weight. But make sure not to create three or more walls. (i.e., Wall - air gap - wall - air gap - wall) This configuration increases sound transmission. It should be Wall - air gap - wall or just a thick wall. An easy way is to add a layer of gypsum to all walls and seal all cracks. The ceiling must also be made heavier. A good tip from Johannes is to fill with sand on the top side.
Ventilation can become problematic. There, you can build a sound muffler. https://soundproofliving.com/soundproofing-air-vents/ (see point 4) Otherwise, the sound escapes through the ventilation hole. Even holes for electrical outlets can be problematic if they create a hole into an adjacent room. Then you can "offset" the outlets so they are not aligned with each other and try to build them into some labyrinth-like solution with stone wool or glass wool. (As in the link above)
The door should be airtight and as heavy as the rest of the walls; otherwise, it becomes the weak link.
Having stone wool/glass wool/acoustic foam on the walls doesn't do much. It dampens reflections inside the room but does little for soundproofing.
With an air gap between walls, you don't need as much weight. But make sure not to create three or more walls. (i.e., Wall - air gap - wall - air gap - wall) This configuration increases sound transmission. It should be Wall - air gap - wall or just a thick wall. An easy way is to add a layer of gypsum to all walls and seal all cracks. The ceiling must also be made heavier. A good tip from Johannes is to fill with sand on the top side.
Ventilation can become problematic. There, you can build a sound muffler. https://soundproofliving.com/soundproofing-air-vents/ (see point 4) Otherwise, the sound escapes through the ventilation hole. Even holes for electrical outlets can be problematic if they create a hole into an adjacent room. Then you can "offset" the outlets so they are not aligned with each other and try to build them into some labyrinth-like solution with stone wool or glass wool. (As in the link above)
The door should be airtight and as heavy as the rest of the walls; otherwise, it becomes the weak link.
Having stone wool/glass wool/acoustic foam on the walls doesn't do much. It dampens reflections inside the room but does little for soundproofing.
There is also the option of taking a drive for a while with the car, epatraktor, camper van etc., to a place where no one is disturbed. This too is a classic.
Just trying to think a little outside the box here.
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PS. If supervision of the children is important during the sessions, it needs to be arranged whether the TS is in an isolated space in the home or, for example, in a camper van outside the home.
Just trying to think a little outside the box here.
__
PS. If supervision of the children is important during the sessions, it needs to be arranged whether the TS is in an isolated space in the home or, for example, in a camper van outside the home.
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For it to be successful, one should probably arrange the material configuration to be heterogeneous, otherwise, as mentioned, resonance frequencies will likely occur.J JensHaglof said:
Perhaps glue broken pieces of plasterboard, wood pieces, etc.?
Or partially mix styrofoam, sand, and (wallpaper?) glue into an uneven mixture?
https://yewtu.be/watch?v=2cn3puBvfvU - Acoustic According to LN: Soundproofing - Wall & Construction (2018-03-05)J JensHaglof said:
07:36 To dampen low-frequency sounds, one needs to use very hard and stiff materials. Thus, it's not just weight (density) that matters.
07:55 You must add damping between the wall materials like mineral wool.
If airtight sealing is essential, perhaps one could use what I suggested in another thread, namely encapsulating the whole room in bathroom matting sealed with ultrasonic welding.
With all this insulation, there is probably a certain risk that it will become very warm in the (bed)room. So maybe a radiator in the ceiling and a pump to transport the heat away might be necessary.
Perhaps not complicate things too much? Some advice here requires weeks of renovation. And then you might have to sleep in the living room in the meantime...
I would have replaced the door with a solid door. Interior doors are often made of that corrugated cardboard that lets through a lot of noise. I would also have taken the opportunity to glue some rubber strip on the bottom edge of the door. Then I would have laid a carpet and hung heavy curtains. Fabric dampens well. Maybe one of those fabric-covered headboards too?
I would have replaced the door with a solid door. Interior doors are often made of that corrugated cardboard that lets through a lot of noise. I would also have taken the opportunity to glue some rubber strip on the bottom edge of the door. Then I would have laid a carpet and hung heavy curtains. Fabric dampens well. Maybe one of those fabric-covered headboards too?
It's more like a menu of actions. You can choose the ones that fit best for the situation.B Bhp863 said:
After all, we have no idea how the current bedroom is constructed or located. Or the level of resourcefulness and finances.
Should the children be able to contact you at all during your soundproofed sessions? Otherwise, you obviously need to arrange for a nanny or similar to keep an eye on the kids during that time.
If the kids can manage on their own, then there are no problems, and you can take a trip with the car or motorhome, etc. no problem, and the whole question of soundproofing becomes irrelevant.
If the kids can manage on their own, then there are no problems, and you can take a trip with the car or motorhome, etc. no problem, and the whole question of soundproofing becomes irrelevant.
Video camera and motion alarm outside?H Harald Blåtumme said:
It's not the 1970s when video cameras were so expensive that they were only used in TV studios and banks.
Might be worth connecting fire alarms and burglar alarms instead.
Not quite sure how you're thinking in the current context.spikplanka said: