So, I'm back at it with the renovation project! The house is a villa with a crawl space foundation and high ceilings!
In the future living room/dining room, I'm eager to have a smooth painted drywall ceiling. However, I've never done such a ceiling before, and with that, I have a few questions about it. I've read up a bit on how to proceed, so I have a pretty good idea, but I'm a little worried about cracks occurring since it's an old house with a crawl space foundation.
The room is 9 x 4 meters, and I've heard that you nail with spacing cc30, but even if it's that tight, is there still a risk of cracks over time?
Thanks in advance for the answers!
In the future living room/dining room, I'm eager to have a smooth painted drywall ceiling. However, I've never done such a ceiling before, and with that, I have a few questions about it. I've read up a bit on how to proceed, so I have a pretty good idea, but I'm a little worried about cracks occurring since it's an old house with a crawl space foundation.
The room is 9 x 4 meters, and I've heard that you nail with spacing cc30, but even if it's that tight, is there still a risk of cracks over time?
Thanks in advance for the answers!
Have also heard that, is it because it's easier to get smooth? Fiberglass strips should otherwise hold better, right?
I'm mostly afraid of cracks in the joints since I can imagine the house moves a bit, as I've lifted large parts of the house after it has sunk over the years.
I'm mostly afraid of cracks in the joints since I can imagine the house moves a bit, as I've lifted large parts of the house after it has sunk over the years.
No, paper actually holds better. But regardless of the type of tape, there are obviously limits to what it can withstand.
Paper strips are prescribed by plasterboard manufacturers.
Paper strips are prescribed by plasterboard manufacturers.
I have installed about 40sqm of smooth gypsum ceiling in the living room and the new kitchen. I spaced it 300mm apart and filled it 3 times, used paper strips, and sanded 3 times. I thought everything was super smooth and nice until everything was painted! When the light hits it, some of the joints are visible. In other words, I find it difficult to make it as nice as a painter does. The next ceiling will definitely be ceiling tiles and clips.
It is also difficult to paint large ceilings nicely, smaller rooms of 0-15 m2 are not a problem. The issue is that you can't paint quickly enough before the paint dries, which makes the seams between roller strokes visible. Therefore, I'm considering renting or buying a sprayer for when I roll the ceiling myself next time in our living room (35 m2).
The people who painted the ceiling last time before we moved in were some happy amateurs when it came to ceiling painting. They started in one corner of the room and painted a strip a bit wider than the roller along one wall to the next corner, then started again with a new strip next to the first. It ended up stripy all over the ceiling and looks awful.
The people who painted the ceiling last time before we moved in were some happy amateurs when it came to ceiling painting. They started in one corner of the room and painted a strip a bit wider than the roller along one wall to the next corner, then started again with a new strip next to the first. It ended up stripy all over the ceiling and looks awful.
It is difficult to get it perfect, no doubt about that. I actually think butt joints without recess are the easiest to get nice. The putty in the recessed joints tends to sink a bit when it dries, and you can see that in grazing light.
To achieve nice butt joints, I have a couple of tips:
1. Glue the fiberglass tape (or whatever tape you prefer)
2. Apply a layer of putty maybe 1mm over the tape (this step is difficult, you need a steady hand to get it even without support) and let it dry overnight
3. Now you can putty both sides of the dry putty strip with support against the ceiling and the slightly higher putty line. Try to spread it out a bit so the seam becomes reasonably wide.
4. Sand evenly. Now you can get it nice
5. Fill in small holes/mistakes with putty and sand again
To achieve nice butt joints, I have a couple of tips:
1. Glue the fiberglass tape (or whatever tape you prefer)
2. Apply a layer of putty maybe 1mm over the tape (this step is difficult, you need a steady hand to get it even without support) and let it dry overnight
3. Now you can putty both sides of the dry putty strip with support against the ceiling and the slightly higher putty line. Try to spread it out a bit so the seam becomes reasonably wide.
4. Sand evenly. Now you can get it nice
5. Fill in small holes/mistakes with putty and sand again
greater chance of cracks and other issues in a "trä" house
Hmm starting to hesitate about this completely smooth ceiling, maybe I should make it easy for myself and go with panels and clips. I should probably try a completely smooth ceiling in a smaller room before tackling such a large room
Thanks for all the tips though! I will definitely try a smooth ceiling in the bedroom which is the next project, it's a bit smaller (4x3m).
Thanks for all the tips though! I will definitely try a smooth ceiling in the bedroom which is the next project, it's a bit smaller (4x3m).
stretch ceilings are not very good from a fire safety point of viewPurreP said: