55,462 views ·
133 replies
55k views
133 replies
Angle screwing
http://www.vsbyggskruv.se/pdf/sid54.pdfBarnrikehuset said:I think it feels the sturdiest if you screw the wall together lying down and put 2, e.g., 5x100 screws through the sole plate and top plate into each stud, then I wouldn't complement with toe-screwing.
On the other hand, if you want a flexible solution where you can move the studs when the wall is in place, I would only use toe-screwing (also here 2 of 5x100mm at the top and 2 at the bottom). But I find it difficult to toe-screw so that it feels right (a bit too imprecise for my taste). Furthermore, the stud usually shifts from the intended position and I have to first put a stop screw on the opposite side before I start screwing.
If it wasn't a major wall where the cost would skyrocket, I might also consider using angles and anchor screws for maximum flexibility and precision.
Then I think it's perfectly okay to suggest other approaches and for oneself, it's good if one can assess and apply or reject the proposals (even though it's easy to have blinders on and hard to rethink once you've made up your mind).
Otherwise, it easily becomes "Do you know what the difference is between the TGV and a French engineer from Polytechnique? - TGV stops when it derails."
Ps1. Personally, I don't like nailing since I find it difficult to hit, I ought to use hearing protection and it leaves ugly marks in the wood. Ds.
Ps2. To disrupt the order further, are there metal expanders for 3 gypsum boards?
the best thing about nailing is that the timber can move.
whereas when you've screwed it, the screw breaks.
and nailing is faster.
then there's the cost too, nails are cheaper than screws.
skrå skruva I can understand if you have the sill and top rail already in place and are setting the studs.
whereas when you've screwed it, the screw breaks.
and nailing is faster.
then there's the cost too, nails are cheaper than screws.
skrå skruva I can understand if you have the sill and top rail already in place and are setting the studs.
Many wonderful people on this forum and some real bullies.
This thing with "forum gods" exists on every forum that has been around for a longer time and it is equally pathetic everywhere.
I don't understand why one has to justify themselves when asking a simple and extremely concrete question?
There are roughly 129,000 members here. Why can't a question just be left as it is and allow one of these 129,000 members to answer? Someone who actually wants to and can answer the simple and extremely concrete question.
But to calm your agitated hearts, I can justify my choice to toe-screw in the following way:
- I have really bad pain in both shoulders, but mostly in the right one. I have difficulty raising my arm too much. Therefore, I can't and don't want to nail. I would rather use that strength to lift my children.
- I have some hearing damage. Since it is a studio that is to be built, I don't want to risk further deteriorating my hearing, as hearing is the most important part of what will generate income for the studio I will build. That's why I don't want to nail. We are also several people building, and I don't want to risk someone else slamming a nail when my ear is unprotected and close. It's going to happen.
- I'm terrible at nailing with a hammer and I don't have access to a nail gun.
- I have access to very good screwdrivers.
- I'm inexperienced in building. Therefore, I want to be able to move one or more studs if I mess up. Hence my question if I need to complement toe-screwing with screws through the sill and top plate for it to be stable enough, which I hoped to avoid. And according to several answers, I don't need to.
- I will also build walls in an existing room. I will toe-screw there regardless.
Thanks for the few good answers my question has provided.
This thing with "forum gods" exists on every forum that has been around for a longer time and it is equally pathetic everywhere.
I don't understand why one has to justify themselves when asking a simple and extremely concrete question?
There are roughly 129,000 members here. Why can't a question just be left as it is and allow one of these 129,000 members to answer? Someone who actually wants to and can answer the simple and extremely concrete question.
But to calm your agitated hearts, I can justify my choice to toe-screw in the following way:
- I have really bad pain in both shoulders, but mostly in the right one. I have difficulty raising my arm too much. Therefore, I can't and don't want to nail. I would rather use that strength to lift my children.
- I have some hearing damage. Since it is a studio that is to be built, I don't want to risk further deteriorating my hearing, as hearing is the most important part of what will generate income for the studio I will build. That's why I don't want to nail. We are also several people building, and I don't want to risk someone else slamming a nail when my ear is unprotected and close. It's going to happen.
- I'm terrible at nailing with a hammer and I don't have access to a nail gun.
- I have access to very good screwdrivers.
- I'm inexperienced in building. Therefore, I want to be able to move one or more studs if I mess up. Hence my question if I need to complement toe-screwing with screws through the sill and top plate for it to be stable enough, which I hoped to avoid. And according to several answers, I don't need to.
- I will also build walls in an existing room. I will toe-screw there regardless.
Thanks for the few good answers my question has provided.
No one has mentioned that it's not possible to make a perfect wall laying down and then erect it 
It simply doesn't fit, but if you want to make it complicated, sure
To follow up on all the OT suggestions, can't you do a bit the opposite as well?
Studs at the top and bottom, then attach the plasterboards, and THEN attach the studs?
It simply doesn't fit, but if you want to make it complicated, sure
To follow up on all the OT suggestions, can't you do a bit the opposite as well?
Studs at the top and bottom, then attach the plasterboards, and THEN attach the studs?
Oh yeah, no problem. You just make it 4.5 cm too short, then squeeze in a little stud between and screw it in place after you've raised it.Blindnit said:
But joking aside, I'm totally with you, I would also start by attaching the sill and top plate to the floor and ceiling first, then toe-screw/nail in the standing studs.
Building a wall lying down to then raise the whole wall is best suited for walls during frame construction, before any roofs exist, or lower walls than full ceiling height in existing rooms, e.g., a bastu.
And one more thing.
That I write that it's not that important how securely the studs are attached to the base plate or top plate is one thing.
However, it's important that the base plate and top plate themselves are sufficiently well-attached to the floor and ceiling, as you don't want a wall that tips over or slides away if someone leans against it or if you attach something heavy to the wall.
And if you're going to build a wall laying down and then raise the finished wall, the requirements increase for how securely the base plate/studs/top plate are connected, as it needs to hold together when you raise the stud wall. Just 2 screws at each end can be a bit minimal, depending on the dimensions of everything.
That I write that it's not that important how securely the studs are attached to the base plate or top plate is one thing.
However, it's important that the base plate and top plate themselves are sufficiently well-attached to the floor and ceiling, as you don't want a wall that tips over or slides away if someone leans against it or if you attach something heavy to the wall.
And if you're going to build a wall laying down and then raise the finished wall, the requirements increase for how securely the base plate/studs/top plate are connected, as it needs to hold together when you raise the stud wall. Just 2 screws at each end can be a bit minimal, depending on the dimensions of everything.
That's exactly what I'm thinking. Answer the question first, then you can suggest other solutions. Furthermore, I think that these different "titles" due to how many posts you've made are just ridiculous. And then some even think they know best because of a title like "forum god" which is even worse. Just because you've been active on a forum for a long time doesn't mean you know best. In TS's case, they may have very strong arguments for their choice of fastening method and therefore ask the question about screwing. Before you start giving a lot of answers like "you should nail because it's better," you should find out why someone wants to screw.Anna1984 said:I agree with TS, even if you maybe shouldn't go through the roof immediately. I have asked a lot of questions here myself that have gotten similar responses. When it happens over and over again, it gets a bit tiring. You might have decided on something, based on 10 different things that you don't have the energy/can't/want to explain in the question on the forum. Then you don't want 20 different questionings, but an answer to the question.
I've, for example, asked something about laminate flooring when I'm about to buy laminate. Then you get the question "why are you buying laminate" "parquet is prettier". Yes, but now I have a dog and want to lay laminate instead. "Lay tile, it's prettier". Yes, but NOW I think laminate is prettier...
Earlier, I asked about a pneumatic impact wrench I just bought. I then get a response "buy an electric one instead". Yes, but now I have bought a pneumatic one......
I understand that sometimes you have to question, and it's good if you have another solution that you believe is better. But maybe you should also answer the basic question.
For example, one can answer:
If you want to angle-screw, do it like this.........
But I suggest nailing instead because you'll get the following advantages......
Personally, I would appreciate such an answer more.
There you go. Now I've dissed the forum gods and will probably get crap for it. But in that case, do you think I care about that? I'll throw some crap back instead.
Oh yes, you can, in all cases where there are no height restrictions.Blindnit said:
And even in other cases, it usually works fine because the framework you raise is not perfectly rigid,
The higher "title" one has, the more time is spent in front of the computer and less time is spent on practical work 
But just thought of something that perhaps could be useful for TS.
The wall is primarily for soundproofing if I haven't completely misunderstood?
Then there should probably be some form of damping against the floor and ceiling as well?
So not directly on the frame, so to speak.
But just thought of something that perhaps could be useful for TS.
The wall is primarily for soundproofing if I haven't completely misunderstood?
Then there should probably be some form of damping against the floor and ceiling as well?
So not directly on the frame, so to speak.
A well-intentioned tip, use hearing protection/earmuffs as it can be quite noisy when several screws and saws hammer on studs for adjustments, etc.
The length of the screw also depends on how much you tilt it, but 5-6 x100 should suffice perfectly.
The length of the screw also depends on how much you tilt it, but 5-6 x100 should suffice perfectly.