55,462 views ·
133 replies
55k views
133 replies
Angle screwing
Most people probably questioned the very skråskruvandet on a lying wall?Anna1984 said:
More complicated, harder, dumber, and also impractical as it is harder to fix the rule in a given position.
But you are of course right in essence
I don't know if it's comedic or tragic that we're up to 6 pages now to answer the question:
"I'm going to screw together a bunch of walls with 45x95-studs.
How many screws do I need per stud and how long?"
:wow:
"I'm going to screw together a bunch of walls with 45x95-studs.
How many screws do I need per stud and how long?"
:wow:
There is a thread with about 4260 posts and a looooot of images, it doesn't work there, otherwise, I always use it and there are never any problems.Blindnit said:
My tip to TS would probably be to screw through the sill/plate and into the end grain. Easier and smoother than angling. If I've understood correctly, it meets all the criteria. I would have put 6x90mm and two at each end, but of course, one is probably enough and it cuts the work in half
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The tragic thing is probably that it's this type of post that has resulted in the number of pagesAnna1984 said:
By the way, you haven't missed my offer to you in the thread about the test of the Bosch, have you?
What TS doesn't consider, and which has obviously caused confusion in the thread, is that despite the simple question, the answer may differ depending on the conditions. It has become evident in this thread that knowledgeable people have different opinions depending on whether the "hammarband" is attached to a roof, is being erected against a roof, or is being erected without a roof. It might not be easy to foresee, but perhaps that's why the basic conditions were also poor?
Additionally, it is more enjoyable to answer a question if one has a mental image of what is being built, which surely leads to more responses. So why not start with two sentences about the studio construction and the space in which it is being built?
Additionally, it is more enjoyable to answer a question if one has a mental image of what is being built, which surely leads to more responses. So why not start with two sentences about the studio construction and the space in which it is being built?
it will be a studio in a larger spaceelpaco said:What the original poster isn't considering, and what has apparently caused confusion in the thread, is that despite the simple question, the answer may vary depending on the circumstances. It has become evident in this thread that knowledgeable people have different opinions depending on whether the wall plate is fixed to a ceiling, is to be raised against a ceiling, or is to be raised without a ceiling. Perhaps not easy to foresee, but maybe the basic conditions were poor as well?
It's also more fun to answer a question when you can visualize what is being built, which is likely to generate more responses. So why not start with two sentences about the studio construction and the premises it's being built in?
Nah, I feel satisfied now. Thanks anyway.elpaco said:What the OP is not considering, and what has obviously caused confusion in the thread, is that despite the simple question, the answer may vary depending on the conditions. It has been shown in this thread that experts have different opinions depending on whether the wall plate is attached to the roof, is to be erected against the roof, or is to be erected without a roof. Maybe not easy to foresee, but perhaps that's why the basic assumptions were also poor?
It's also more fun to answer a question when you can visualize what is being built, which will certainly lead to more answers. So why not start with two sentences about the studio construction and the room in which it’s being built?
An alternative could be to build with steel studs. Easy to carry, easy to join (rivet) with minimal screwing and nailing. Additionally, they provide better sound insulation than wooden studs according to gyproc. http://www.gyproc.se/gör+det+själv/så+här+gör+du/så+minskar+du+oönskat+ljud/ljuisolerande+innervägg
Regarding sound insulation, I recall there is a special sealant to "glue" in corners, top, and bottom.
For angled screwing of wooden studs, I have used 5x90mm 4 pcs/stud. 2 at the top and 2 at the bottom. To get the correct distance, I used a 55.5 cm long stud placed against the previous stud at 60 cm center-to-center. Easy to get the distance and it maintains the position even when tightening the screws.
Regarding sound insulation, I recall there is a special sealant to "glue" in corners, top, and bottom.
For angled screwing of wooden studs, I have used 5x90mm 4 pcs/stud. 2 at the top and 2 at the bottom. To get the correct distance, I used a 55.5 cm long stud placed against the previous stud at 60 cm center-to-center. Easy to get the distance and it maintains the position even when tightening the screws.
I'm getting help from a consultant with most of the work. I bombard him with so many other questions, so I wanted to check this simple thing ("simple" haha) regarding angle screwing here instead!Robert 75 said:An alternative could be to build with steel studs. Easy to carry, easy to assemble (rivet) with minimal screwing and nailing. Additionally, they provide better sound insulation than wooden studs according to Gyproc.
[link]
Regarding sound insulation in general, I recall that there is a special sealant to "glue" in corners, above and below.
For angle screwing wooden studs, I have used 5x90mm 4 pieces/stud. 2 at the top and 2 at the bottom. To get the right distance, I have used a 55.5 cm long stud placed against the previous stud center-to-center at 60 cm. Easy to get the distance and stays in place even when you drive the screws.
The idea of the measuring rule is brilliant and I will probably use it, thanks for that! I think someone else mentioned something similar before, so thanks to that person as well!