Hi, I am in the process of finalizing the drawings for my accessory building, and I'm a bit interested in how I should dimension the roof beam to get everything right.

The house is intended to be used as a studio/workshop. There will also be a heated storage room and a toilet since we only have one toilet in the main building. This also makes it possible for future owners to convert the building into a guest house if desired.

The house will have a gable roof open at the ridge on the large section. Above the toilet, small room, and storage, I imagine building a loft to get some extra storage, including compartments for wood. I also want a beam in the ceiling where I can run a block trolley. Why? Because I can. I figure there could be various reasons to hang something from the ceiling. The idea is that if you plan it now, it can be done, as fixing it afterward is quite a bit harder.

As I see it, there are two options for constructions:
1. You build as usual but with an oversized glulam beam. You bolt the metal beam to the glulam beam from underneath, so it hangs from the glulam.
2. You think ahead and place the metal beam on the load-bearing walls, and then the glulam on top. With some sort of joint, you then get a very strong one which, I assume, can be slightly thinner than a corresponding glulam beam.

As I see it, (2) is the obviously best alternative. However, I don't know how to dimension the thing. When I check byggbeskrivningar.se, you get an idea of what it lands on, but how much thinner can it be with the metal beam? Where can I find such info?

Unfortunately, there's a clear risk that the building permit won't go through with the size specified below. The way I decrease the area, in that case, is by making the large room shorter in length.

SketchUp blueprint of a small house with a gable roof, showing interior spaces including a toilet, alongside a scale figure. Floor plan of a complement house with dimensions marked. Displays a large open space, a small room, storage area, and a toilet, showing interior layout. Sketch of a building interior layout showing room dimensions and placements; includes a person for scale, a toilet area, and labeled measurements. 3D SketchUp design of an outbuilding with a gable roof, including dimensions and interior spaces like a toilet and storage loft. 3D model of a structure with a gabled roof, showing dimensions, loadbearing specifications, and construction standards for a project.
 
Of course, only the metal beam needs to be over the part that is free, if it makes things easier. If nothing else, it will likely be cheaper.
 
Hmm, in Option 2, the glulam beam can't be undersized compared to usual, right? The glulam beam must handle the maximum snow load, etc., even when you have a full load on your beam. Personally, I would probably choose option 2, but calculate as if it were a normal glulam beam and then get the strength from the I-beam as a bonus when it's not loaded. This shouldn't cause any problems with the building permit either.
 
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jonmo
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I'm thinking that I won't have a significant load on the beam, and therefore it will help with the entire bearing of the load. But maybe that's wrong? I don't have strong opinions on the matter.
 
jonmo jonmo said:
I imagine that I won't have a significant load on the beam, and thereby it will help with the overall bearing of the load. But maybe that's wrong? I have no strong opinions on the matter.
I have no idea about the sizing of the beam and how large the maximum load you have in mind is. :)
 
Another aspect of this is the foundation. Say I cast a slab with an edge beam and then a normal thickness of 10 cm. With the weight that will be on the center column, it feels like it could crack the slab. Should one cast a beam under that column as well to reinforce the slab, or what is the standard?
 
Why not just have a steel beam supporting the roof?
Normally, a perimeter beam is made around the slab, thickness/width/reinforcement depends on the loads that come down as well as the ground/insulation's capacity.
 
B bossespecial said:
Why not just have a steel beam to support the roof? Normally you would create a perimeter beam around the slab, the thickness/width/reinforcement depends on the loads that come down and the ground/insulation capacity.
Yes, that might be an option, and you can also get some space for insulation at the ridge.

The question is just how such a beam should be dimensioned. How do you calculate it so that it can also lift a machine weighing say 300 kg? I will probably bring in an engineer for this, but I am very interested, relatively mathematically knowledgeable, and feel that I want an idea of how expensive this could become before I go too far with the idea.

Spontaneously, Dowser's point above about designing without a steel beam and seeing it as a bonus seems like a good idea. It's just important to dimension the supports sufficiently.
 
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