Have removed the ceiling in the future kitchen and exposed the beams.

The gap between the ceiling and wall (see image) needs to be closed up somehow, what's the most suitable way to go about it?

Leca then plaster? Studs and drywall?

Grateful for all ideas and answers, preferably personal experiences! Thank you.
 
  • Exposed ceiling joists above a door frame with a gap between the ceiling and wall waiting to be filled.
  • Exposed beams and brick walls in a gutted kitchen space, with a yellow Shop-Vac and cable reel on the floor.
J
It was probably never meant to look like that, it's probably supposed to be a blindbotten, you won't get shavings, peat, or kolstybb in your food, or have you changed the insulation in the floor joist?
 
J JohanLun said:
It was probably never meant to look like that, it's supposed to be a blindbotten, you won't get shavings, peat, or coal dust in your food, or have you changed the insulation in the joist?
It wasn't built for an exposed joist, no, but now it looks like it does, happily. I'm debating whether I should put in nail strips and paneling between the beams or leave it as it is.

What you see is indeed the bottom of the second floor's subfloor, which is currently unfurnished and not in use.

But to the point, do you have any ideas or suggestions regarding sealing the cavity?
 
Do you need thermal insulation in the ceiling?
 
J justusandersson said:
Do you need thermal insulation in the ceiling?
Thanks for the reply Justus, no it's not necessary! What idea do you have?
 
Then you just need to nail up a new panel onto the old beams. You might need to nail guide boards on the sides of the beams first. Use a sturdier type of tongue and groove panel considering the c/c distance. Consider placing a 50 mm mineral wool board on top of the panel for sound insulation.
 
J justusandersson said:
Then you just need to nail up a new panel on the old beams. You might need to nail guide boards to the sides of the beams first. Use a thicker type of tongue and groove panel considering the c/c distance. Feel free to place a 50 mm mineral wool board on top of the panel for soundproofing.
Maybe I misunderstand or have expressed myself unclearly. I want the beams to be visible, it's the cavity, or "shelf" between the ceiling and wall that needs to be closed so that the wall goes all the way up to the ceiling, if you understand?
 
I mean this party!
 
  • Damaged ceiling area highlighted in red above a doorway.
Aha! Then something you can polish might be suitable, for example, lecasten. They do come in quite thin variants, 9 and 12 cm wide, if I remember correctly.
 
J justusandersson said:
Aha! Then something you can polish should be suitable, e.g., lecasten. They come in quite thin variants, 9 and 12 cm wide, I believe.
Ok, Leca indeed. What do you think about regular brick/håltegel? Thanks for all the tips, even in the other thread!
 
It depends a bit on the measurements. Lecasten is easier to work with than brick, but if brick fits in terms of height, then why not. Håltegel doesn't have much use here, but it is somewhat lighter.
 
J justusandersson said:
It depends a bit on the measurements. Lecablock is easier to work with than brick, but if brick fits height-wise, then why not. Hollow brick isn't very useful here, but it is somewhat lighter.
Thanks for the tips
 
J
are the walls brick? It's probably best, as Justus writes, to plaster (with the same type of plaster) as the walls, and you could also just attach a piece of wood with plaster mesh to plaster against if bricklaying becomes cumbersome.

But something to consider is to ensure that no debris falls from the ceiling; maybe a paper and panel directly against the joist bottom? Or lift out the insulation from above, lay paper, and use something like flax insulation that doesn't release debris...
 
J JohanLun said:
are the walls built with bricks? It is probably best, as justus writes, to plaster (with the same type of plaster) as the walls, you could also just put a piece of wood with a plaster net to plaster against if bricklaying becomes tricky?

but one thing to consider is making sure that debris doesn't fall from the ceiling, maybe a paper and panel directly against the subfloor? Or lift the insulation from above, lay paper and use something like flax insulation that doesn't shed debris...
Thanks for the response and interesting thoughts!

Exactly, the walls are built with bricks. Plastered with lime mortar, I would guess. I've never laid bricks so wood and net certainly sounds easier. On the other hand, using bricks feels more "authentic."

I've also thought about cladding with rough-sawn planks between the beams, but since the planks look so nice and beautifully weathered, it would be nice to leave them visible and just whitewash them or something similar.

I had planned to wait with the upper floor, but perhaps it's an idea to go up and dig out the subfloor from above (roofing paper, sand, lime) and then insulate with flax wool. It's just a really dusty job with many bags to move down.

What do you think about notching the gaps in the ceiling from below and then sanding? Should hold tight, right?
 
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Have you considered buying faux beams in foam instead?
 
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