We have started replacing our brown-stained baseboards with pre-painted white ones.
We don't think it looks quite right now that we've installed the first few boards.
First, I cut the boards with a regular miter saw but felt that the cuts were a bit uneven.
Then I tried cutting the boards with the miter saw that has a 30-tooth blade, running it very slowly to avoid damaging the lacquer too much.
I already realized that I have too coarse a blade, but I still think it turned out better than with the hand miter saw.
Will I get nice cuts if I buy a blade with more teeth and how many teeth should I have (on the blade, that is)?
The next task was to install the boards with white trim screws (which I thought was easiest).
When you screw in the board, the screw "tears" the board around the screw head, making each attachment point clearly visible.
Is it better to use white trim nails, or is there a trick to attaching the boards as neatly as possible?
We don't think it looks quite right now that we've installed the first few boards.
First, I cut the boards with a regular miter saw but felt that the cuts were a bit uneven.
Then I tried cutting the boards with the miter saw that has a 30-tooth blade, running it very slowly to avoid damaging the lacquer too much.
I already realized that I have too coarse a blade, but I still think it turned out better than with the hand miter saw.
Will I get nice cuts if I buy a blade with more teeth and how many teeth should I have (on the blade, that is)?
The next task was to install the boards with white trim screws (which I thought was easiest).
When you screw in the board, the screw "tears" the board around the screw head, making each attachment point clearly visible.
Is it better to use white trim nails, or is there a trick to attaching the boards as neatly as possible?
Hello
I bought a blade with 60 teeth for my saw with a blade diameter of 210mm. I cut some window sills yesterday and have previously used it for white moldings. I think the cut is almost perfect; if you look really closely, you can see a slightly jagged edge, but I think it's negligible.
I used white nails, but that’s pointless, after two blows with the hammer the paint is gone. I went over the nail heads with Tipp-Ex, but there should be a better technique
Best regards, Emil
I bought a blade with 60 teeth for my saw with a blade diameter of 210mm. I cut some window sills yesterday and have previously used it for white moldings. I think the cut is almost perfect; if you look really closely, you can see a slightly jagged edge, but I think it's negligible.
I used white nails, but that’s pointless, after two blows with the hammer the paint is gone. I went over the nail heads with Tipp-Ex, but there should be a better technique
Best regards, Emil
Thanks for the answer!
I'll see if I can find a new klinka tonight and we'll see if it gets better.
Yes, you'd think there should be a better technique than using tipex, but it's an idea that seems to work
If anyone has more ideas for how to get nice attachment points, they are gratefully received.
I'll see if I can find a new klinka tonight and we'll see if it gets better.
Yes, you'd think there should be a better technique than using tipex, but it's an idea that seems to work
If anyone has more ideas for how to get nice attachment points, they are gratefully received.
I cut with a miter saw and then a strip of latex sealant in the corners/joints, which is smoothed out with a finger. I nail with regular galvanized 40-50mm brads. Then the back of a brad/toothpick with a dab of white paint (tippex will probably work just as well.)
The result is nearly perfect. You basically have to search for the nail heads to find them.
The result is nearly perfect. You basically have to search for the nail heads to find them.
Also mounted pre-painted white moldings. Had no issues with uneven cuts. I have a 24t blade, though brand new. Have you tried placing the molding with the paint facing down in the miter saw? I also used white molding screws and got an annoying "tearing" around the screw head. Solved it by pre-drilling the molding, and the result was better. However, I only needed to do the moldings for a hallway and a kitchen. There is otherwise a better molding screw with a slightly smaller and rounder head, but I do not know if it is available in white. I have used it at work, and the tearing is much less. Best regards, Putte
Thanks for the tip!
I will try to turn the strip with the color towards the fence.
I have now acquired a 48t blade but have not had the chance to test it yet.
I also got a tip from the hardware store that if you are nailing, you can pre-drill and use a nail driver to minimize "cracking" in the wood and marks from the hammerhead.
I will try to turn the strip with the color towards the fence.
I have now acquired a 48t blade but have not had the chance to test it yet.
I also got a tip from the hardware store that if you are nailing, you can pre-drill and use a nail driver to minimize "cracking" in the wood and marks from the hammerhead.
I have tried using Grabbers list/baseboard screw (white painted) but I don't like it. Even though the head is small, it looks dimpled to me. It's better to use hot-dip galvanized brad nail (which is rougher than electro-galvanized) and then dab a little paint on the heads with a brush or a cotton swab.
the blade should have as many teeth as possible and the only and best way to attach moldings is with a dyckertpistol.
Completely indispensable if you are going to nail some moldings, paneling, etc. you can get a reasonably good one for about 1,000 kr. Then latex on the tiny tiny nail heads and the miters on the moldings.
Completely indispensable if you are going to nail some moldings, paneling, etc. you can get a reasonably good one for about 1,000 kr. Then latex on the tiny tiny nail heads and the miters on the moldings.
Tested cutting with the new 48t blade yesterday and the result was, in my opinion, good.
If the planning goes as I hope, I'll be installing some moldings this weekend, so we'll see how nailing goes too.
Unfortunately, I don't have a compressor, so I'll probably have to skip the nail gun.
If the planning goes as I hope, I'll be installing some moldings this weekend, so we'll see how nailing goes too.
Unfortunately, I don't have a compressor, so I'll probably have to skip the nail gun
.
DJ: NO not face down. then you scratch the edge and paint against the material....
A fine-toothed saw is the best, alternatively laying the edge down but with the paint facing up.
However, you should keep in mind that if you lay the edge down, you need to set the saw at several angles in different miters...
A fine-toothed saw is the best, alternatively laying the edge down but with the paint facing up.
However, you should keep in mind that if you lay the edge down, you need to set the saw at several angles in different miters...
Hello
Okay, then I did it right when I laid the molding down with the color facing up.
Maybe I misunderstood Byggputte when he wrote.
"Have you tried laying the molding with the color facing down
in the miter saw guide? "
I will soon start working on the trim around 4 doors and moldings in the kitchen, so I'll try some new tips then.
Emil
Okay, then I did it right when I laid the molding down with the color facing up.
Maybe I misunderstood Byggputte when he wrote.
"Have you tried laying the molding with the color facing down
in the miter saw guide? "
I will soon start working on the trim around 4 doors and moldings in the kitchen, so I'll try some new tips then.
Emil
Yes, you can very well run with the paint facing down. That's what I do, and if you've painted your moldings properly and let them dry, there's no problem with the moldings. If you get a little paint on the stop, you remove it with a cloth and some turpentine when you're done.