Hello,
We are planning to install our Ikea kitchen this week, where we intend to mount the upper cabinets directly against the wall, i.e., without a rail.
I went to Beijer and asked for advice regarding screws and plugs and was recommended to use Fischer Lightweight concrete screws, without plugs.
Does anyone have experience with this?
It's a lot of weight that it has to hold with all the porcelain, etc.
The guy at Beijer seemed knowledgeable and confident in his advice, mentioning that he had built like this himself before.
//David
We are planning to install our Ikea kitchen this week, where we intend to mount the upper cabinets directly against the wall, i.e., without a rail.
I went to Beijer and asked for advice regarding screws and plugs and was recommended to use Fischer Lightweight concrete screws, without plugs.
Does anyone have experience with this?
It's a lot of weight that it has to hold with all the porcelain, etc.
The guy at Beijer seemed knowledgeable and confident in his advice, mentioning that he had built like this himself before.
//David
Ossian K Olsson
Hobby electrician
· Limhamn
· 2 454 posts
Ossian K Olsson
Hobby electrician
- Limhamn
- 2,454 posts
Why are you not going to use a rail? It's incredibly useful to have!David.B. said:
Hello,
We are going to install our IKEA kitchen this week, where we plan to attach the wall cabinets directly to the wall, i.e., no rail.
I went to Beijer and asked for advice regarding screws and plugs and was recommended to use Fischer Light Concrete Screws, without plugs.
Does anyone have experience with this?
It has to hold a lot of weight with all the porcelain and more.
The guy at Beijer seemed knowledgeable and confident, saying he's built like that himself before.
//David
Why can't you use the rail? Even if you're going to set the cabinets flush against the ceiling, which I don't recommend, you can still use the rail. What you do is attach the rail brackets first, then slide the cabinet onto the brackets.
The reason not to set the cabinets flush against the ceiling is that even a small unevenness can make it difficult to open the doors.
By the way, I believe that Fischer GB lightweight concrete plugs are great. Them or Tox Ytox. Ordinary nylon plugs are almost useless in lightweight concrete. No experience with lightweight concrete screws.
The reason not to set the cabinets flush against the ceiling is that even a small unevenness can make it difficult to open the doors.
By the way, I believe that Fischer GB lightweight concrete plugs are great. Them or Tox Ytox. Ordinary nylon plugs are almost useless in lightweight concrete. No experience with lightweight concrete screws.
Exciting! I will investigate this, it would be great to be able to use the track.tommib said:
Why can't you use a track? Even if you're installing cabinets right up against the ceiling, which I don't recommend, you can use the track. What you do is first attach the track brackets, then slide the cabinet onto the brackets.
The reason not to install cabinets flush with the ceiling is that even a small unevenness can make it difficult to open the doors.
Furthermore, I believe that Fischer GB light concrete plugs are great. Either those or Tox Ytox. Regular nylon plugs are almost useless in light concrete. No experience with light concrete screws.
I will leave enough space to slide a cover panel between the cabinet and the ceiling, so they won't be flush.
Then you can hang the cabinets on the rail as described above. It's helpful to have two people during the installation. I don't remember if I placed a small piece of painter's tape on the brackets as well, or if it was even the case that I attached them with a screw loosely in the cabinet and then tightened them when they were in place.
I have, for example, the entire garage interior (which consists of kitchen cabinets) fixed to the wall with aerated concrete screws. It holds excellently even years later despite overloaded cabinets. I have also used it to mount heavier doors, and that works excellently too.David.B. said:
I don't know what holds better—you quickly end up in a situation where it's the aerated concrete block itself that sets the limit, not the actual fastening in it.
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