I'm remodeling a kitchen in a condo apartment. Everything is being gutted. During the demolition of the old mosaic, quite a bit of plaster is coming off the walls. It doesn't seem to be in good condition anywhere.
Therefore, I've thought about installing drywall instead of replastering the wall. Additionally, I want to run some new electrical wiring in the wall, behind the drywall, instead of cutting channels in the plaster/brick and gluing the drywall. The problem is that I don't want to extend too far from the existing wall as the room is already narrow. So 45 mm studs are really too much. My question is if it would work/be okay to stud with 28 mm battens and screw the drywall onto that? Would there reasonably be room for conduit/flex too?
Therefore, I've thought about installing drywall instead of replastering the wall. Additionally, I want to run some new electrical wiring in the wall, behind the drywall, instead of cutting channels in the plaster/brick and gluing the drywall. The problem is that I don't want to extend too far from the existing wall as the room is already narrow. So 45 mm studs are really too much. My question is if it would work/be okay to stud with 28 mm battens and screw the drywall onto that? Would there reasonably be room for conduit/flex too?
Member
· Norrbotten
· 3 390 posts
If the glesen itself is screwed tighter than 600 cc, then there should not be any problems.
Thank you for the answers.
Norbotten - Denser than cc 600?
When framing for a ceiling with gles, you usually set it at cc 300, but is it really needed on a wall?
Smurfen - Do you have electrical wiring behind? Any comments from the electrician?
Huggan - Of course noggins where the cabinets go up.
Stefan - Could have been an option, but as mentioned, I want to run electricity behind without having to groove for the vp pipes in the wall.
Norbotten - Denser than cc 600?
When framing for a ceiling with gles, you usually set it at cc 300, but is it really needed on a wall?
Smurfen - Do you have electrical wiring behind? Any comments from the electrician?
Huggan - Of course noggins where the cabinets go up.
Stefan - Could have been an option, but as mentioned, I want to run electricity behind without having to groove for the vp pipes in the wall.
I will probably need to mill or knock out channels behind the gaps for the vp pipes anyway, but then it will be about 100 mm per stud rather than 4 meters with a concrete mill and dust in the whole apartment?
Or is it a stupid idea?
Or is it a stupid idea?
Member
· Norrbotten
· 3 390 posts
I reason like this; in a normal wall construction, you use studs that are at least 45x45. 45x45 becomes fairly stable when they are attached at cc-600 (on a stable surface). 28x70 might sag a bit if they are attached at cc-600mm. If you can attach 28x70 to the brick/plaster surface with denser attachment points, so that there is no sagging allowance, it stabilizes this properly. From what I understood, there will be "only" one plasterboard and the wall is where the cabinets will go up, possibly tiles? Stability feels important!
The Glesen should hopefully not be able to flex as they should be mounted directly against the existing wall, though perhaps 300 cc is still more recommended for later tile setting?
The cabinets will be screwed into noggings and not into the plasterboard, that's the plan.
The cabinets will be screwed into noggings and not into the plasterboard, that's the plan.