I probably can't fit in a glulam beam because of the height. Is there another alternative to a 630 glulam beam or an HEA260 that doesn't build as much?
I found something called balkankare, does it work the same way as an angle iron?
Which is better to use, steel post or wood, I imagine it easily becomes thermal bridges with steel in the outer wall.
//Peter
I found something called balkankare, does it work the same way as an angle iron?
Which is better to use, steel post or wood, I imagine it easily becomes thermal bridges with steel in the outer wall.
//Peter
Glue-laminated timber 90x630 can be replaced by 215x495, possibly even 215x450, depending on the loads involved. HEA 260 can be replaced by HEB 240. The question of columns in wood or steel has many aspects. One should start with a holistic approach.
Fastening in the web of the steel beam is a good solution if you want to make the floor structure compact. However, it is unsuitable if the secondary beams span across multiple compartments.
Fastening in the web of the steel beam is a good solution if you want to make the floor structure compact. However, it is unsuitable if the secondary beams span across multiple compartments.
I intended to place the beam from wall to wall (6m), with a door width of about 4.7m, and then there is a wall section before the side door which is about 20 cm from the outer wall of the house. The roof trusses will be placed on top of the beam. The trusses have a cc90 spacing except nearest the house where they will be cc60 (2 pieces due to a snow pocket). I need to open the existing wall to make space for posts, it's quite cramped especially towards the house.
I have a similar problem as Andreas who created this thread. I am going to remove a load-bearing wall between the kitchen and living room. My neighbor has done this transformation but chose glued laminated timber. It was a few years ago, so he doesn't have any calculations for it. The distance is at least 3.5 m and it rests on studs. I am thinking of opting for HEA as the beam and welding it to square KPR. A skilled welder will heat the beam, so it doesn't sag, and weld the supports. My neighbor used 65x315 glued laminated timber. Do you think you could give me an idea of the dimension for the beam? No upstairs, just a low-sloping roof (maybe 5%).J justusandersson said:
You're between HEA 140 and HEA 160, so it's best to go with the latter. Whether this is right in the context, I don't know of course, but a 3.5 m long HEA 160 can handle 10 kN/m (more than 1000 kg/m) in distributed load with a deflection of 1/600 of the span, so they're quite substantial units.
Absolutely. The buckling load at a height of 2.7 meters on a KKR 70 3mm plate is 108 kN, so there are margins.
As a comparison:
Our house, built in 2010, has an open area between the "dining room" and "living room" of 5.14 meters.
At the initial meeting before the construction, our quality manager (now called control manager) furrowed his brow for about 10 seconds and said, "here we need to insert a steel beam."
It became an HEA beam, 200 mm, 5400 mm in length.
It rests on a couple of 95x95 studs/posts, built into the walls,
and is completely invisible inside the floor.
The lower chords of the trusses are therefore cut in the middle there and rest on the lower flange of the HEA beam.
So with a little work, you should be able to get your opening between the rooms clear and nice too.
The beam cost, back then 9 years ago, 5000 SEK including shipping and VAT.
Our house, built in 2010, has an open area between the "dining room" and "living room" of 5.14 meters.
At the initial meeting before the construction, our quality manager (now called control manager) furrowed his brow for about 10 seconds and said, "here we need to insert a steel beam."
It became an HEA beam, 200 mm, 5400 mm in length.
It rests on a couple of 95x95 studs/posts, built into the walls,
and is completely invisible inside the floor.
The lower chords of the trusses are therefore cut in the middle there and rest on the lower flange of the HEA beam.
So with a little work, you should be able to get your opening between the rooms clear and nice too.
The beam cost, back then 9 years ago, 5000 SEK including shipping and VAT.
How did you get those in? The beam is not an upside-down T, so you can't just slide it up into a groove, so to speak. Did you slide the beam in from the side so it glided in with the cut bottom chords between the flanges of the HEA beam?KnockOnWood said:
No, I might have been unclear.
The beam was installed when the house was built, so the four trusses (calculated and manufactured by Derome) affected by the opening were delivered cut "in the middle," where the beam was supposed to be placed.
The beam was installed when the house was built, so the four trusses (calculated and manufactured by Derome) affected by the opening were delivered cut "in the middle," where the beam was supposed to be placed.
Ah, so you were able to somehow maneuver those in when everything was lifted into place.
I thought it was existing trusses on an existing house that you modified
We have just made an opening of 5.8 which we are supporting with a HEA bslk. We also have a low ceiling, so glulam was out of the question. The beam rests on 95x95 supports that are built into the walls. Supporting against the roof trusses. We had to tear down the entire ceiling and build the supports into the walls. When everything is finished, hardly anything will be visible.
An IPE160 is somewhere between HEA120 and HEA140.Bjorx said:
Thanks again! Then KKR was solved
Here you can compare different profiles, what you should compare are Iy and Wy between the profiles.
500 SEK excluding VAT is half the price if the beam is 3.5 meters long, so it's a bargain. The question is whether IPE 160 can handle the task. I think you should check that first.