Ridge beam in vaulted ceiling

[amatörfixaren]

Hello.

I've been following the discussions here for a while and have gotten a lot of good tips, but now I have an issue that I can't find a thread about, so it might be time for my first post.
I need to set up an interior wall, and it wouldn't be a problem if the ceiling weren't vaulted. My question is how you would handle the top plate. The vault is even, and the height difference between the highest and lowest points of the ceiling where the wall will be attached is 15 cm.
Since the ceiling height is 3500mm, I was thinking of using a wooden stud, but I'm considering whether there might be a "flexible" metal track to use as the top plate or if there might be other nice solutions.

Fredrik

 

[Montören]

Can't you take a regular metal strip and cut "notches" to then let it follow the roof?
Alternatively, cut the "hammarbandet" beam to the correct length and press it up against the roof with a beam where the roof is highest? If it is a longer wall, the beam should be able to flex 15 cm.

 

[falkn]

There are sheet metal studs with notches specifically for this type of applications from, among others, Gyproc. Check out below:

http://www.gyproc.se/produkter/stål...lbehör/böjbar+skena+till+böjda+konstruktioner

Should be sold by a well-stocked hardware store.

 

[amatörfixaren]

Can't you take a regular metal strip and cut "notches" to then have it follow the ceiling?
Alternatively, cut the "hammarband" to the right length and press it up against the ceiling with a beam where the ceiling is highest? If it's a longer wall, the beam should be able to bend 15 cm.

Since the wall will only be 700mm, maybe it works to just set a regular beam and have a small "gap" against the ceiling. You can still attach it to the ceiling where it "gaps" with a longer screw. I have sturdy glespanel to screw into.

 

[falkn]

Yes, if it's such a small amount, I would have divided it into 3 pieces, about 230 mm each or similar, so you somewhat follow the slope.

 

[amatörfixaren]

Yes, if it's such a small amount, I would have divided it into 3 pieces of about 230 mm each or similar so you follow the slope somewhat.

Yes, that should work. You should try to miter it so it follows as best as possible; otherwise, you might have to go with the sheet metal rule option.

Thanks for the help.

 

[amatörfixaren]

Can't you take a regular metal strip and cut "notches" to then let it follow the roof? Alternatively, cut the beam "hammarbandet" to the correct length and press it up against the ceiling with a rule where the ceiling is highest? If it's a longer wall, the beam should be able to flex 15 cm.

I tried cutting a metal strip I had lying around, but because the curvature of the roof is quite large, the strip became unstable sideways since I had to cut many notches to bend it. It will have to be some tinkering with a wooden beam instead.

Thanks for the help

 

[Montören]

If the wall is only 700mm, I probably would have placed a regular beam and put pallet washers between the sole plate and the ceiling, and then driven in some sturdy screws

 

[amatörfixaren]

Yes, something like that will do. The thing is that the darn wall will have to swing 65 degrees with a door in it, so it's important to make the corner sturdy. The whole project is a nightmare of angles, luckily I have time.

 

[Montören]

I myself have a 60s house, sometimes I wonder if the level was invented when my house was built. The builder apparently didn't have access to one anyway! :banghead:

 

[amatörfixaren]

Haha, but this is from 2008 but it doesn't help when someone has chosen a design without right angles

 

[cem77]

I would have taken a thinner board that can be bent. For example, a 19 mm thick or thinner one. Screw or possibly glue board after board until you have the beam you want in thickness. Then you can make solid bends without any problems.

If needed, you can also manufacture the beam on a board with screwed blocks as support and then mount it when it is ready.

 

[amatörfixaren]

I would have taken a thinner board that can be bent. For example, a 19 mm thick or thinner. Screw and possibly glue then board after board until you get the thickness you want. Then you can make substantial bends without problems.

If necessary, you can also manufacture the support on a board with screwed blocks as a backstop and then mount it in place when it's ready.

That would have been a nice solution but making your own laminated beam for a 70 cm wall feels like overkill. The boards probably need to be very thin if they are to bend 15 cm over 70 cm unless you steam them.