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Replacing patio door in house with load-bearing door frames?
Hello,
It's time to replace the windows and patio doors in the house, and this brings some issues...
I have a Hultsfred house from 1970 where a section of 4 windows and a patio door in the living room is built with load-bearing frames, i.e., the frames extend from floor to ceiling and support the roof on this part of the long wall.
Moreover, previous owners have enclosed the patio outside the windows, and the beams that the patio roof rests on are attached to the outer wall above the windows/door, and the snow load on the patio roof, as far as I can see, also rests on the standing window frames. However, I haven't seen any issues like sticking patio doors, etc., despite 50-60 cm of snow on it, but clearly, I don't want to add more weight to the existing structure but rather offload as much as possible.
I'm leaving the window frames unchanged and will install glass units instead of the sashes, so that's not the biggest concern; the main considerations are regarding the patio door. To install a new door, I need to cut away the existing door frames and support the weight in some other way, and this is where I need help.
I haven't torn down anything, so I can't tell what's inside the wall, but I find it hard to believe I can fit a beam over the door as it would be difficult to transfer the force to the foundation on the side towards the window. In that case, it would be to attach it to the window frame here, but then you add more load to it.
On the other side, it's probably possible to install a glulam column or similar.
My own thoughts have mostly revolved around the possibility of placing a beam in the attic and hanging up the roof trusses closest to the patio door. This would distribute the load over more roof trusses but not transfer any load to the foundation wall, which is of course desirable. There is an interior wall about 130 cm to the left of the patio door, but it's not possible to embed any support for a beam in the attic here since it doesn't stand over a basement wall.
The door manufacturers recommend that no load is placed on the door frame, and it's probably best to take them at their word there.
Does anyone have a possible solution to the problem?
It's time to replace the windows and patio doors in the house, and this brings some issues...
I have a Hultsfred house from 1970 where a section of 4 windows and a patio door in the living room is built with load-bearing frames, i.e., the frames extend from floor to ceiling and support the roof on this part of the long wall.
Moreover, previous owners have enclosed the patio outside the windows, and the beams that the patio roof rests on are attached to the outer wall above the windows/door, and the snow load on the patio roof, as far as I can see, also rests on the standing window frames. However, I haven't seen any issues like sticking patio doors, etc., despite 50-60 cm of snow on it, but clearly, I don't want to add more weight to the existing structure but rather offload as much as possible.
I'm leaving the window frames unchanged and will install glass units instead of the sashes, so that's not the biggest concern; the main considerations are regarding the patio door. To install a new door, I need to cut away the existing door frames and support the weight in some other way, and this is where I need help.
I haven't torn down anything, so I can't tell what's inside the wall, but I find it hard to believe I can fit a beam over the door as it would be difficult to transfer the force to the foundation on the side towards the window. In that case, it would be to attach it to the window frame here, but then you add more load to it.
On the other side, it's probably possible to install a glulam column or similar.
My own thoughts have mostly revolved around the possibility of placing a beam in the attic and hanging up the roof trusses closest to the patio door. This would distribute the load over more roof trusses but not transfer any load to the foundation wall, which is of course desirable. There is an interior wall about 130 cm to the left of the patio door, but it's not possible to embed any support for a beam in the attic here since it doesn't stand over a basement wall.
The door manufacturers recommend that no load is placed on the door frame, and it's probably best to take them at their word there.
Does anyone have a possible solution to the problem?
Your door and windows are 900mm wide.
You keep the windows which are load-bearing, alternatively, you can mount new windows frame in frame. You can saw off the old bottom and top pieces, but you keep the standing frame parts. Then you order custom windows that fit there. If you choose fixed windows, you will have a slightly less noticeable glass area since your old windows were openable.
When you replace the door, you keep the frame piece on the latch side (load-bearing) but saw off the threshold, top piece, and the frame piece with the hinges.
Behind the frame piece with the hinges, there is a stud to attach the new door to. You also custom order the door. It is not very expensive to custom order windows and doors. Some charge the same price as standard sizes.
Now you haven't affected the load-bearing parts; the only downside is a door about 4-5 cm narrower but still wider than many patio doors.
You keep the windows which are load-bearing, alternatively, you can mount new windows frame in frame. You can saw off the old bottom and top pieces, but you keep the standing frame parts. Then you order custom windows that fit there. If you choose fixed windows, you will have a slightly less noticeable glass area since your old windows were openable.
When you replace the door, you keep the frame piece on the latch side (load-bearing) but saw off the threshold, top piece, and the frame piece with the hinges.
Behind the frame piece with the hinges, there is a stud to attach the new door to. You also custom order the door. It is not very expensive to custom order windows and doors. Some charge the same price as standard sizes.
Now you haven't affected the load-bearing parts; the only downside is a door about 4-5 cm narrower but still wider than many patio doors.
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