Got in touch with an acquaintance who is a carpenter/joiner and he would fix it for me, had a good solution for holding up the beam.
Building up an upside-down V with a notch to hold up while swapping. He's probably used to it being hard to grasp as he works a lot with log houses.
 
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corre
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Experience is probably the be-all and end-all here!
 
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corre and 1 other
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Now it's finally in place, took 4 hours for 1 and 1/2 man (I count myself as half)

A person installs part of a wall frame with a drill in a room under renovation, with wooden beams and construction tools visible.
Renovation project in progress with a beam installed, supported by jacks and surrounded by construction materials and tools.

Column to the left and filling around the beam with expanding concrete, I'll try to fix tomorrow
 
You have good endurance! Strong work.
 
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nino
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Don't really have a choice :)
 
Would have needed another glulam beam to fit in a garage door. The existing hole by the window is about 2.2m

Exterior of a yellow wooden house with several windows and a boarded section near the roof. Area to the right is planned for garage door expansion.
It's the section furthest to the right that will be removed and opened up to about midway between the middle window and the right one, depending a bit on where any stud goes.
 
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Bödvar McOlsson
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The load on the beam will consist of 1) the corresponding share of roof loads, 2) the corresponding share of load from the intermediate floor, and 3) the dead weight of the overlying wall surface. This needs to be quantified, otherwise, it will be purely guesswork.
 
How do I get those numbers?
 
Exterior wall of a yellow wooden house with black lines indicating a planned opening near a window below a satellite dish.
So I want the opening approximately like the black lines.
Then I "move" the hole about 0.5m sideways, presumably there is a beam directly to the left of the large window that needs to be cut and supported.
 
There must be some adjustment over the window today. If it's possible to shift it sideways, that might be enough. How does it look on the inside?
 
That's kind of how I was thinking...

I'll tear out the windows and open up a bit on the inside, then I'll get back to you

Any tips on how to prevent all the sawdust from coming out later if I open up the wall?
 
Open at the top. There usually isn't much sawdust left. It is primarily the conditions above the window that are interesting.
 
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nino
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Here is what it looks like when the window is gone, if that makes you any wiser?
Open window frame with exposed wooden beams and insulation, viewed from inside. Sunlight and a blue cover are visible at the bottom. Window opening with removed window frame, featuring exposed building materials and visible light streaming through from outside. Close-up of an open window space with exposed wooden beams and insulation peeking through. The scene is from inside a building, showing renovation progress.

From the outside Blue tarp covering window opening on yellow house exterior with old window next to it, construction materials below, garden and cars in the background.

A house exterior with removed windows, visible boarded-up sections, and a blue tarp covering part of the old, worn siding.

The opening today is about 210cm, from the inside of the left window to the inside of the opening it's about 100cm

The idea is to get a car in this winter. The day I start on the apartment that will be inside there, there might be floor-to-ceiling windows; in any case, the windows need to be moved out from the corner as they go all the way in...

I would have preferred an opening all the way from the left window as then I would have all the options to do what I want there.
 
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You can see that the wall is some sort of framework construction and that there's a beam above the window. Between the two windows, there are probably at least two studs that you should ideally be able to cut off, but then you'll have an opening with about a 4 m span. If there's enough height, it might be possible to manage with a steel beam that you install from beneath. But you'll need to have an idea of what loads will be involved. Half the roof, half the intermediate floor to the heart wall, and the wall above the 4 m wide opening. If you can determine those areas, you can probably calculate an approximate load.
 
It will be 3m from the left window, if that window is left in place, it might look a bit odd but it's okay.

I'll try to measure a bit...
You can cut the hole in height and push a laminated beam in from below, then you have quite a bit of space since the ceiling height is about 270-280.

165x400 laminated beam should fit easily if that's enough?

I can place a pillar about 50cm in from the corner, and manage with an opening of 250.
 
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