If the concrete floor is an intermediate floor (i.e., not directly on the ground), nothing is needed; otherwise, some sill paper.
 
  • Like
nino
  • Laddar…
It is a slab on grade without insulation, so some paper will be used.

I might be able to get a 220x165x3000 from work; the issue is that it is solid wood and raw. Is it possible to arrange drying in a reasonable way and get it dry in a reasonable time?
Otherwise, it's just as good with glulam or dried solid wood.
 
If you want it to dry in a reasonable time, you'll need to find someone with a steam dryer, sawmill, or woodworking factory. But there should be plenty of those in Dalarna, right?
At the same cross-sectional area, glulam has about 20% better bending stiffness than ordinary solid wood of decent quality.
 
Yes, there are some sawmills here...
Feels like it's too much work to save a few hundred kronor.
 
nino nino said:
Feels like it's too much work to save a few hundred bills
Only you can judge that for yourself!
 
Yes, of course :)

A thousand thanks to you for all the help, I hope I can return the favor someday.
 
Received the beam yesterday
I've been thinking a bit about how to do it, should I make a straight joint between the old and the new, or should I make the new glulam beams L-shaped, so that it extends under the old one.
The glulam is about 10cm higher. Both beams will rest on their own column, which may possibly be screwed together
 
Make a straight joint.
 
  • Like
nino
  • Laddar…
More questions...
Started with shoring the other day and realized, as I think you mentioned earlier, that the rafters run in the same direction as the beam I need to replace.

Does the shoring do any good when it goes in the same direction?
I don’t know which direction the extension's roof goes.
 
Above the 2 nailed joists that need to be replaced, there is an older log.

Between the log and the joists, there are pieces of wood, probably instead of wedges.

I'm thinking of bracing on both sides and checking if I can move the pieces of wood; if I can, I'll try to saw off the pillar, which also consists of two joists.

If it's possible to saw off the pillar without it pinching significantly, it should be okay to demolish the rest?

I then start by installing the new pillar that will be against the current beam, then lift up the glulam beam, then wedge it up against the log after the pillar on the left is in place; on the right, it will be supported by the wall.
 
I think it seems like you solve most problems yourself...

nino nino said:
If it's possible to saw off the pillar without it pinching significantly, then it should be okay to tear down the rest?
That's probably a reliable indication. It takes very little for a saw blade to pinch.

If nothing else helps, you can always drill holes in the old log and thread a metal rod through it, which can serve as a lifting point.
 
  • Like
nino
  • Laddar…
Thanks, that's kind of what I was thinking too, try to get some metal brackets that hold the log.

Will have to do a test, but I forgot to order a post, though the woodworking shop was going to check if there was a glulam in a suitable dimension.
 
Hmm, it wasn't so easy on the inside as the roof beams run along the beam and towards the other side which is the outer roof, there seems to be another beam along which the inner ceiling is nailed to, so I don't really have anything to lift with...
Bombarding with some pictures...

Exposed interior ceiling showing roof beams and wooden planks with some insulation material visible in an old building renovation project.
From the inside, the roof joists go in the same direction

Interior view showing roof beams, a log, and old red exterior paneling with visible deterioration and damages, part of a renovation discussion.
Other side, old red exterior panel

Interior view showing red-painted wooden wall panels and exposed wooden beams under the roof, highlighting construction details.
Small sloping outer roof's attachment to the exterior wall

Interior view showing ceiling beams, insulation, and exposed wiring in a renovation project. Wooden panels and graffiti on the wall.
A little better picture of the beam and joists


Don't know how to proceed now...

Considering if I can get hold of metal in the dimensions 20x120x500 to stick between joists and beam and lift with.

It will be difficult to drill and get a pipe through.
 
Spontaneously, I do not envy you. One wonders how on earth they managed when they remodeled your house. If you can get in such a strong steel plate, maybe it can work. It doesn't need to be pretty as long as it works.
 
  • Like
nino
  • Laddar…
It may not be such large loads right here, but you never know...
 
Vi vill skicka notiser för ämnen du bevakar och händelser som berör dig.