hello
moisture measure the toilet + get a real steel beam and put it in the ceiling
The steel beam is 100x better than some glued laminated timber nonsense and regular wood
I have a 140x90x5 mm as a load-bearing beam on my carport
it's about 6x7 m roof area that this beam supports, with a 5 m free span
from the wall band.
sure, when there is 60-80 cm of snow on the roof, the beam settles a few cm
the advantage is that you can weld reinforcements to the beam afterwards
+ that it is possible to pre-tension a steel beam during installation
i.e., you bend it 3 cm upwards when you install it. it is also possible to do this after installing the load-bearing beam, you just need to heat align the beam with some welds
my friend built the same way but with a 400mm high glued laminated timber beam
they calculated the snow load free span so the beam would hold up ,,,
the thing settled about 10 cm the first year it ended with him having to prop up
the glued laminated timber beam with a support in the middle of the carport... super convenient
moisture measure the toilet + get a real steel beam and put it in the ceiling
The steel beam is 100x better than some glued laminated timber nonsense and regular wood
I have a 140x90x5 mm as a load-bearing beam on my carport
it's about 6x7 m roof area that this beam supports, with a 5 m free span
from the wall band.
sure, when there is 60-80 cm of snow on the roof, the beam settles a few cm
the advantage is that you can weld reinforcements to the beam afterwards
+ that it is possible to pre-tension a steel beam during installation
i.e., you bend it 3 cm upwards when you install it. it is also possible to do this after installing the load-bearing beam, you just need to heat align the beam with some welds
my friend built the same way but with a 400mm high glued laminated timber beam
they calculated the snow load free span so the beam would hold up ,,,
the thing settled about 10 cm the first year it ended with him having to prop up
the glued laminated timber beam with a support in the middle of the carport... super convenient
This is a product made of carbon fiber that an acquaintance was recommended when they were demolishing load-bearing walls in a basement space under an apartment building. It might be something for you. The price is admittedly somewhat higher than for a steel beam/glulam beam but it saves an incredible amount of space! The product is made of carbon fiber and is glued to reinforce the structure.
Contractor:
http://www.johns.se/default.asp?VisaSida=iSid.aspZQQZId={43841FEF-01D8-4526-AB69-4354B2317A8A}
Manufacturer of the product:
http://www.sika.se/sika_carbodur_.asp
Exciting with new materials, the house becomes like an F1 racer!!!
Contractor:
http://www.johns.se/default.asp?VisaSida=iSid.aspZQQZId={43841FEF-01D8-4526-AB69-4354B2317A8A}
Manufacturer of the product:
http://www.sika.se/sika_carbodur_.asp
Exciting with new materials, the house becomes like an F1 racer!!!
Hello
hmm the company that sold the glulam beam knew how and where it would be placed; the beam was calculated in a program that the supplier had specifically for calculating the strength of beams. Despite that, the glulam beam became like a rocking chair runner when snow came on it.
The problem with all wooden constructions is precisely that it's a darn hassle to reinforce them if they become too weak...
whereas a steel beam is significantly easier to both reinforce and prestress on site if it gives way...
just look at my little 190mm beam, I positioned/placed it on top of the posts which are 80x80 profile tubes
so by summer, I’ll simply just get another beam and cut it in between the posts under the first beam = 380mm steel beam supporting the roof.
I’ll simply weld the beams together with a few strings...and the problem is solved.
If I want, I can then cut steel wedges and weld them under the reinforcing beam that I mounted
then I should be able to drive an L50 onto the roof =)
+ I firmly believe that a glulam beam becomes at least 3 times larger than a corresponding iron beam
if you think it looks ugly with iron, you can just cover it with wood.
hmm the company that sold the glulam beam knew how and where it would be placed; the beam was calculated in a program that the supplier had specifically for calculating the strength of beams. Despite that, the glulam beam became like a rocking chair runner when snow came on it.
The problem with all wooden constructions is precisely that it's a darn hassle to reinforce them if they become too weak...
whereas a steel beam is significantly easier to both reinforce and prestress on site if it gives way...
just look at my little 190mm beam, I positioned/placed it on top of the posts which are 80x80 profile tubes
so by summer, I’ll simply just get another beam and cut it in between the posts under the first beam = 380mm steel beam supporting the roof.
I’ll simply weld the beams together with a few strings...and the problem is solved.
If I want, I can then cut steel wedges and weld them under the reinforcing beam that I mounted
then I should be able to drive an L50 onto the roof =)
+ I firmly believe that a glulam beam becomes at least 3 times larger than a corresponding iron beam
if you think it looks ugly with iron, you can just cover it with wood.
Jockefors... :
You live up in the northernmost part of Sweden, and the ground is more movable there than in other parts of the country.
Sure, the guy used computer calculations, but there must be something wrong in the construction that the beam rested on. A building doesn't consist only of load-bearing parts but also others that are meant to distribute and direct loads.
I also agree with Fehnik: cool, just as you said that (after some whiskey or beer) "Check out my carbon fiber construction. cost a lot but worth every penny" ....
You live up in the northernmost part of Sweden, and the ground is more movable there than in other parts of the country.
Sure, the guy used computer calculations, but there must be something wrong in the construction that the beam rested on. A building doesn't consist only of load-bearing parts but also others that are meant to distribute and direct loads.
I also agree with Fehnik: cool, just as you said that (after some whiskey or beer) "Check out my carbon fiber construction. cost a lot but worth every penny" ....
hi
well, I don't think the problem with bad soil is bigger here than further south in the country
where they often build on old lake or sea beds =)
if I remember correctly, the guy had the same foundation as me, meaning a solid
cement slab as the foundation
okay, the posts that hold up the roof may be weaker than my steel beams, it's not entirely impossible, but then those posts should have given way and not the laminated beam that
rests on them
the mistake I believe they made is that they overlooked that there is about 5-6 m between the support posts in the front of the carport; he, like me, had about a 6 m overhang from the house
and the roof was about 6-7 m wide, so it's quite a long span.
it's not really normal to have such a long distance between the posts....
But I refuse to concede that steel is worse; sure, for people who have never worked with iron, it seems complicated, you have to know what and how to do if you're, for example, splicing a steel beam so that it holds..
+ you need to have a welder and grinders
compared to working with wood, I'd 50 times rather do a steel construction
if I weld it, it holds.. a wood thing can almost never be completely rigid, it moves and slackens everywhere until in the end, the nails let go....
Take just splicing a beam in iron, if you make a proper seam for welding and weld it together, if you did it the right way, the splice holds as much as the rest of the beam
and it's barely noticeable that it's spliced.
also, you can just fine straighten a steel beam by applying heat; it doesn't take many welds on the beam before it pulls 5 cm in one direction. The problem with that is that people in general weld just where they shouldn't, so it pulls in the wrong direction.
if you just know how and why steel reacts the way it does, it's super easy to straighten it with heat, for example.
When I was welding tractor buckets, you'd straighten the bucket steel with the welder; those who couldn't do it didn't swear a little, it quickly pulled 5-10 cm in the wrong direction and it was a hassle to fix it afterward.
Once you figured out how to do it, there was no problem keeping the steel within 1 cm
over 3 m. it all depended on how and in what order you welded the steel
my opinions may largely be because I worked as a welder for 5-6 years, so I think it's 100 times easier to work with iron...my wood welder has kind of broken down=)
well, I don't think the problem with bad soil is bigger here than further south in the country
where they often build on old lake or sea beds =)
if I remember correctly, the guy had the same foundation as me, meaning a solid
cement slab as the foundation
okay, the posts that hold up the roof may be weaker than my steel beams, it's not entirely impossible, but then those posts should have given way and not the laminated beam that
rests on them
the mistake I believe they made is that they overlooked that there is about 5-6 m between the support posts in the front of the carport; he, like me, had about a 6 m overhang from the house
and the roof was about 6-7 m wide, so it's quite a long span.
it's not really normal to have such a long distance between the posts....
But I refuse to concede that steel is worse; sure, for people who have never worked with iron, it seems complicated, you have to know what and how to do if you're, for example, splicing a steel beam so that it holds..
+ you need to have a welder and grinders
compared to working with wood, I'd 50 times rather do a steel construction
if I weld it, it holds.. a wood thing can almost never be completely rigid, it moves and slackens everywhere until in the end, the nails let go....
Take just splicing a beam in iron, if you make a proper seam for welding and weld it together, if you did it the right way, the splice holds as much as the rest of the beam
and it's barely noticeable that it's spliced.
also, you can just fine straighten a steel beam by applying heat; it doesn't take many welds on the beam before it pulls 5 cm in one direction. The problem with that is that people in general weld just where they shouldn't, so it pulls in the wrong direction.
if you just know how and why steel reacts the way it does, it's super easy to straighten it with heat, for example.
When I was welding tractor buckets, you'd straighten the bucket steel with the welder; those who couldn't do it didn't swear a little, it quickly pulled 5-10 cm in the wrong direction and it was a hassle to fix it afterward.
Once you figured out how to do it, there was no problem keeping the steel within 1 cm
over 3 m. it all depended on how and in what order you welded the steel
my opinions may largely be because I worked as a welder for 5-6 years, so I think it's 100 times easier to work with iron...my wood welder has kind of broken down=)
Hmmm... I can visualize it :Fehnik said:Spot on!
Imagine how cool it would be when the buddies come over for a beer and you can say check out the carbon fiber beam ;D
As a cyclist, I am already weight and carbon fiber fixated (on the gear, that is :) If I were to start building the house with carbon fiber as well so ;D ;D. I would've heard about it ;D ;D Anyone have a guess on what it might cost (in the Stockholm area) to fix a problem similar to the one described here?
It's a load-bearing wall where a previous owner made an opening and now the ceiling/floor has sunk down maybe a couple of centimeters in the middle. I suppose you would need to raise it up again and put in a beam, and I'm curious about roughly what it would cost to have a craftsman do it.
It's a load-bearing wall where a previous owner made an opening and now the ceiling/floor has sunk down maybe a couple of centimeters in the middle. I suppose you would need to raise it up again and put in a beam, and I'm curious about roughly what it would cost to have a craftsman do it.