I am going to apply renovation plasterboard on a particle board wall to avoid seeing cracks in the wallpaper/paint that have appeared until now. First, I thought of screwing the particle boards properly, as they are only nailed today.
I have read the plasterboard manufacturers' instructions and various threads here but still am not clear on a couple of things;
* You should avoid jointing the plasterboard in the extensions of window/door openings. How far outside should you go? Is 10 cm enough?
* Is it enough to screw into the particle board, or do you also need to screw into the studs?
* The renovation plasterboard is 6 mm thick, how do you easily and nicely handle the window reveals? Is there a suitable trim to build on with?
Anything else I need to consider?
I have read the plasterboard manufacturers' instructions and various threads here but still am not clear on a couple of things;
* You should avoid jointing the plasterboard in the extensions of window/door openings. How far outside should you go? Is 10 cm enough?
* Is it enough to screw into the particle board, or do you also need to screw into the studs?
* The renovation plasterboard is 6 mm thick, how do you easily and nicely handle the window reveals? Is there a suitable trim to build on with?
Anything else I need to consider?
yes, just as long as the joint is outside
yes. if you have chipboard I would try to hit the studs as much as possible
might work with a molding strip
be careful when you screw. it can create "mountains" around the screw.
I would have taken "regular" plasterboard
yes. if you have chipboard I would try to hit the studs as much as possible
might work with a molding strip
be careful when you screw. it can create "mountains" around the screw.
I would have taken "regular" plasterboard
My spontaneous guess is that if you screw the chipboards properly into the studs, you might get the wallpaper to hold without plaster.
If you mount the plaster with the joints offset from the chipboard joints, on the other hand, you probably won't need to screw the chipboards.
It should definitely be enough to screw the plaster directly into the chipboards without hitting the studs, but keep in mind that it's easy to get large chunks falling off the back of the chipboard if you screw without pre-drilling.
There is molding with a rebate for this purpose.
If you mount the plaster with the joints offset from the chipboard joints, on the other hand, you probably won't need to screw the chipboards.
It should definitely be enough to screw the plaster directly into the chipboards without hitting the studs, but keep in mind that it's easy to get large chunks falling off the back of the chipboard if you screw without pre-drilling.
There is molding with a rebate for this purpose.
Thanks for the tips! 
When I replaced the patio door, I made the new trims 6 mm deeper in preparation for renovation plaster, so I’ll probably stick to that. Otherwise, the standard plaster is cheaper
When I replaced the patio door, I made the new trims 6 mm deeper in preparation for renovation plaster, so I’ll probably stick to that. Otherwise, the standard plaster is cheaper
Yes, I've read that they should exist. But where?!Avemo said:
Heel pad
My chipboards are nailed and glued to the studs, but they still crack; only plaster holds.Avemo said:
Either you go with 13mm plasterboard and block molding or you use renovation plasterboard and put a small packing strip under the molding. There are no advantages to renovation plasterboard as it is more expensive and harder to get right.
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Yes, I guess it will have to be regular plaster after all .
I also considered a small salningslist, but then one would have to both make it and fill between it and the old window jamb. It's just too much hassle...
. I also considered a small salningslist, but then one would have to both make it and fill between it and the old window jamb. It's just too much hassle...
yes. that's because you often shape them. ready-made with the right cleat for you can be ordered but will be more expensive thenmexitegel said:Hm.
Furthermore, all the cleat linings from the retailers I've checked only come with a 12 mm cleat. The renovation plasterboard is 6 mm...