Renovating bedroom, flooring and joist issues

[eddiw]

We cleared out the space between the floors during renovation to level the floor. We had more sand/gravel and a lot of slag stone as well as various construction debris. Classic carpenter's fill. Replaced with mineral wool. Steps and impacts on the floor sound louder now while speech, music, and other sounds are better dampened. It was quite a job to get everything out though. Ended up being a few tons carried out in blue IKEA bags. We have slightly thicker beams. 80x220 if I remember correctly. No spring on 4.5 spans but we've removed a lot of weight as well...

Thanks for the input! Good to hear that someone else is clearing out the old junk between the beams

Ok, yeah, those seem to be sturdier beams. In our case, the beams are spaced differently, in some places it's only 45 cm between the beams and in one place it's about 55 cm. Perhaps that contributes to not having much spring for us as well.

 

[eddiw]

On top of the chipboard, you can lay whatever you want. A laminate floor is certainly thinner.

It may marginally affect the bounce, but hardly in your case.

I understand your point. Personally, I have a strong aversion to glue in houses. There is probably some tool that can be used. Use screws with reasonable heads, e.g., Torx.

Okay, just thinking if 22mm chipboard is enough. There is also 28mm chipboard available. But then it builds up very much too. Hope 22mm is enough; otherwise, I'll have some problems.

Yes, exactly, I don't really like using glue anywhere. I'm the kind of person who prefers to be able to unscrew everything if needed and avoid having to tear everything apart. I previously had a sunroom that we had to take down due to drainage. It was only nailed, not a single screw, then you get quite annoyed

 

[eddiw]

The deflection requirements have to be calculated. We humans are not sensitive enough. However, the requirements are based on studies with a very large number of participants.

But the house looks the way it does, and changing beams to more massive ones likely won't

Is screwing a solid floor not an option?

Apparently not according to JustusAndersson But no, I don't think I want such a floor.

 

[justusandersson]

22 mm is plenty.

 

[eddiw]

22 mm is plenty.

Great. But what should you do if the joists aren't completely straight? They seem to have wedged some bits under the beams under the floor here and there, probably to level the floor. Doesn't the chipboard get a bit tricky when the beams are slightly crooked?

 

[justusandersson]

If they are extremely crooked, you should probably use a plane, either hand or electric. Otherwise, it probably doesn't matter that much.

 

[Kretikos]

Great. But what should you do now if the joists aren't completely straight? It seems like they've put some pieces under the beams under the floor here and there, probably to level the floor... Won't the chipboard be a bit tricky when the beams are somewhat uneven?

It looked the same for us too, but since we were going to level the floor anyway, we screwed and glued new floor joists against the old ones and then installed a 32mm solid pine floor. I'm not sure why Justus rejects solid flooring, but it might have something to do with load-bearing capacity?

 

[eddiw]

If they are extremely crooked, you might have to use a plane, hand or electric. Otherwise, it's probably not a big deal.

No, it's mostly small scrap pieces that are a few millimeters thick scattered here and there. I'm not really sure to what extent yet because I haven't removed much of the floor. You can probably see the pieces on the beams in the first post's pictures...

 

[justusandersson]

Screwing and gluing on the sides of the beams has only a marginal effect compared to anything that increases the height of the beams. Floorboards lie across the joists and therefore do not contribute. The flexural rigidity of the beams follows from the formula b*h^3/12 (width times height raised to the power of three divided by twelve).

 

[eddiw]

Screwing and gluing to the sides of the beams has only a marginal effect compared to anything that increases the height of the beams. Floorboards lie across the joists and therefore do not contribute. The bending stiffness of the beams follows from the formula b*h^3/12 (width times height cubed divided by twelve).

Ok, then I understand.

Screwing and gluing to the sides of the beams has only a marginal effect compared to anything that increases the height of the beams. Floorboards lie across the joists and therefore do not contribute. The bending stiffness of the beams follows from the formula b*h^3/12 (width times height cubed divided by twelve).

Ok, then I understand.

Another question regarding floor chipboard. Checked online a bit, but it varies a little how to lay floor chipboard. My question: Should you joint the chipboard over the beams or does it not matter when you glue the ends of the boards anyway? I'm a bit semi-allergic to jointing "in the air," and actually want to have the joint on the beams (feels like it will become unstable?). But I see many who just lay out the boards, and the joints end up between the beams. You should probably make sure not to have all the joints in the same place either, but stagger them?

 

[justusandersson]

On this link, you can read more about the installation of chipboard flooring. https://www.traguiden.se/konstrukti...komplettering/golv-och-blindbotten/undergolv/

 

[Lane]

We have the same or similar under our basement floor. We've received several suggestions on what it is, but haven't heard of slag stone before. An older man who was here said it was siporex, which we think seems to fit the most so far. We've also found bricks in this material in the garden.
Ours is very light and like pumice in material (air bubbles). The kids think it's really fun to draw on the asphalt with pieces they find

 

[eddiw]

On this link you can read more about laying chipboard flooring.
[link]

Yep, I've checked it out, but it doesn't say anything about whether they should be joined over a beam or wherever the joint ends up, unfortunately. And when I've googled, it varies how it's done..
It's convenient if you can just lay it out and ignore where the joint comes, though I do wonder about how stable it is when one edge "hangs in the air"?

 

[Thomas_Blekinge]

I first tried just tightening the old floor to get rid of the creaking. It turned out to be fruitless. So out with the old floor and in with new chipboard flooring which was glued and screwed down. It became completely silent. At the same time, you can take the opportunity to check the insulation. Get rid of all the debris (I learned the fine term "byggmästarblandning"). For new insulation, you can use fluffed cellulose, which seems more fitting for an older house.

 

[eddiw]

We have the same or similar under our basement floor. Got several suggestions on what it is, but not slag stone before. An older man who was here said it was siporex, which we think seems to fit best so far. We have also found bricks in this material in the garden.
Ours is very light and like pumice in the material (air bubbles). The kids think it's really fun to draw on the asphalt with pieces they find

Yes, exactly, they are very light and kind of with air bubbles in them. I can easily imagine they can be used for drawing
Maybe it is siporex then? However, nothing else in our house is built with it.