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Reinforcing wooden joists with an additional beam
Today, I have wooden floor joists with cc60 45x220 beams.
420cm length.
There has been 22mm chipboard (nailed and glued) on top with plastic flooring and panel ceiling underneath.
I was thinking if I could eliminate bounce by adding a floor joist in between to achieve cc30 now that the floor is already removed. But I can't place the beam all the way out to the load-bearing outer wall due to heating pipes running in the joists. On the other side, the beam can rest on the load-bearing wall.
The idea was to place a header as close as possible to the heating pipes, which is about 25-30cm away from the load-bearing outer wall, and attach the floor beam to the header with a joist hanger or screws.
The thought is that with the header so close to the outer wall, much of the load will be transferred to the load-bearing wall.
The new chipboard will be screw-glued, and then either a parquet floor or laminate floor will float on top.
There are two bedrooms with the floor joists measuring 420cm and 660cm for both rooms combined. These rooms will later be divided with an interior wall once the floor is laid.
420cm length.
There has been 22mm chipboard (nailed and glued) on top with plastic flooring and panel ceiling underneath.
I was thinking if I could eliminate bounce by adding a floor joist in between to achieve cc30 now that the floor is already removed. But I can't place the beam all the way out to the load-bearing outer wall due to heating pipes running in the joists. On the other side, the beam can rest on the load-bearing wall.
The idea was to place a header as close as possible to the heating pipes, which is about 25-30cm away from the load-bearing outer wall, and attach the floor beam to the header with a joist hanger or screws.
The thought is that with the header so close to the outer wall, much of the load will be transferred to the load-bearing wall.
The new chipboard will be screw-glued, and then either a parquet floor or laminate floor will float on top.
There are two bedrooms with the floor joists measuring 420cm and 660cm for both rooms combined. These rooms will later be divided with an interior wall once the floor is laid.
It will be much stronger than what you have now; feel free to use joist hangers as it will be difficult to screw the new cc 300 joist into the short beam.B buhu said:Today, I have wooden joists with cc60 45x220 beams. 420cm length. It had 22mm floor chipboard (glued and nailed) on top with a plastic mat and panel ceiling underneath.
I was thinking if I could eliminate the sag by adding a floor joist in between to achieve cc 30 now that the floor is removed. But I cannot extend the joist all the way to the load-bearing exterior wall due to heating pipes in the joist frame. On the other side, the joist can rest on the load-bearing wall.
The idea was to extend as close as I can to the heating pipes, which are about 25-30cm from the load-bearing exterior wall, and attach the floor joist to the extension with, for example, a joist hanger or screws.
The thought is that the extension is so close to the exterior wall that much of the load is transferred to the load-bearing wall.
The new floor chipboard will be glued and nailed, and then a parquet or laminate floor will be laid floating on top.
There are two bedrooms with the joists measuring 420cm and 660cm together for both rooms. These rooms will later be divided with a partition once the floor is laid.
The ceiling doesn't need to be attached at all to the new beams, it should stay in place on the old ones, right?B buhu said:
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