Member
· Västra götalands län
· 60 posts
Hello
I am renovating at home, just ripped everything out from the basement to make a laundry room and mudroom.
The basement is about 40m2 with a width of 4.1m span.
The house was built in '67.
When I tore down the ceiling, I saw that the joists are 2"x8" with a 4.1m span
So now that I've torn everything down, I want to take the opportunity to reinforce in a good way. Since it's the basement, I want to avoid placing a beam or laminated timber under the existing joists.
I have considered attaching a 2"x8" to the existing joists and then "blocking" between all of them. What do you think about this?
I can mention that after the basement, I will start with the upper floor and replace all the floors, space out with 28x120 for waterborne underfloor heating and then floor on top of that.
Tough question, but do you think this will be enough?
Grateful for some guidance
I am renovating at home, just ripped everything out from the basement to make a laundry room and mudroom.
The basement is about 40m2 with a width of 4.1m span.
The house was built in '67.
When I tore down the ceiling, I saw that the joists are 2"x8" with a 4.1m span
So now that I've torn everything down, I want to take the opportunity to reinforce in a good way. Since it's the basement, I want to avoid placing a beam or laminated timber under the existing joists.
I have considered attaching a 2"x8" to the existing joists and then "blocking" between all of them. What do you think about this?
I can mention that after the basement, I will start with the upper floor and replace all the floors, space out with 28x120 for waterborne underfloor heating and then floor on top of that.
Tough question, but do you think this will be enough?
Grateful for some guidance
It's probably enough as it is. But of course, it provides added comfort to avoid "rattling" floors. From experience, it often proves quite difficult to brace between old joists since they have usually dried and warped a bit. Cross-bracing works better in that case (search if you don't know what it is). If you think you can get a good fit, then of course bracing is fine as well. I believe the biggest difference will come if you glue and screw the chipboard on top when you replace the floor. I guess it's currently a nailed tongue-and-groove wooden floor? Gluing and screwing the chipboard provides a significant improvement as you get a really good compression flange on top, it's important to plane the existing joists so you have good contact between the chipboard and joists everywhere.
Member
· Västra götalands län
· 60 posts
Yes, it probably does, but I prefer it not to sag, so since I have so much down now, I thought I'd try to fix it anyway Maybe I should go for a cross-support? I heard somewhere that you can saw off all the beams and then insert an H-beam which you then attach the joists to, but it feels a bit iffy to saw off the joists to then reattach them to a beam which I don't think will work well. But as I said, it's just a feeling I have. Then there was the issue of attaching an extra support to the existing beam? The floor is nailed today, but since I am going to space with paneling (for underfloor heating) which I screw in, I want a "reasonably" stable floor before I start up there This is hard Thanks anyway for the answer! Maybe I should bring in someone who can calculate the best solution :/
Maybe I should go for a cross-support? I heard somewhere that you can saw off all the beams and then insert an H-beam which you then attach the joists to, but it feels a bit iffy to saw off the joists to then reattach them to a beam which I don't think will work well. But as I said, it's just a feeling I have. Then there was the issue of attaching an extra support to the existing beam? The floor is nailed today, but since I am going to space with paneling (for underfloor heating) which I screw in, I want a "reasonably" stable floor before I start up there This is hard Thanks anyway for the answer! Maybe I should bring in someone who can calculate the best solution :/