Hi. I'm a bit puzzled.
I'm planning to install plywood floating, and then attach solid wood flooring to it. Floor plywood is hard to come by in a convenient way, so what I'm considering now is to groove the edges myself and use loose tongues in regular construction plywood. I was thinking of the method of placing the boards against each other to groove between them just like you do with non-tongued flooring.
If I want a groove milling cutter that makes a groove at least 4 mm high and 2 cm deep in the board, which one should I choose? I've searched but can't find one that meets my requirements. Is there a loose tongue available for purchase? I know one can cut it yourself, but the table saw is on its last legs. Does anyone know?
I'm planning to install plywood floating, and then attach solid wood flooring to it. Floor plywood is hard to come by in a convenient way, so what I'm considering now is to groove the edges myself and use loose tongues in regular construction plywood. I was thinking of the method of placing the boards against each other to groove between them just like you do with non-tongued flooring.
If I want a groove milling cutter that makes a groove at least 4 mm high and 2 cm deep in the board, which one should I choose? I've searched but can't find one that meets my requirements. Is there a loose tongue available for purchase? I know one can cut it yourself, but the table saw is on its last legs. Does anyone know?
I have an approximately 7 mm router bit with a ball bearing that works perfectly on facade panel boards. I usually saw the tongues in 7 mm pine plywood. The groove should be about 1/3 of the thickness. It must get more difficult when you go down to thin dimensions. I wouldn't choose that solution for a standard subfloor; it's better to use joists. In what way should the floor be floating?
The subfloor will be floating and consist of 15 mm construction plywood. This must be glued together with tongue and groove. On top of this, 22 mm screwed solid flooring will be laid, which is to be sanded and clear-coated. The difficult part is that floor plywood is hard to find. There is roof plywood, but it is often only grooved on two sides and usually in smaller sizes. Sure, I can use chipboard flooring, but that will increase the height, and every centimeter counts. I don't want to go below a ceiling height of 210. Therefore, I thought about grooving and gluing it myself because it is easy to get 15 mm p30 construction plywood. I have a concrete floor underneath, and I have done this before with good results, but now the building supply stores no longer have it in stock because they usually install chipboard.
With concrete floors, I understand better. K-plywood is naturally much better than particle board, especially as a subfloor that you have to screw into. I would go up to 18 mm, which has two more layers than 15 mm. 12 and 15 mm have the same number of layers, as do 18 and 21 mm. I believe the springs have to be made in furuplywood.
What I put in before with 15 mm has held up well. Old building in the countryside that doesn't have much ceiling height to begin with. Nothing is straight either. But it's hard to find plywood that is tongue and groove all around nowadays, hence the question about routing the grooves myself and where to find good ones. I have a router but no bit suitable for the task. The idea was that if you fix the boards against each other, it should be easy to route a groove in each board at the same time. Loose tongue is mostly a convenience thing. My table saw is getting worn out, and you have to be very careful for it to work well. I'm trying to convince an estate to sell a solid 70s Gjerde with a rolling table and complement it with a lighter single-phase. That's why a new table saw is not in my plans.
But do you need a groove on the plywood boards?
I installed my floor in the workshop (also floating on a concrete slab) with loose boards, staggered seams, and perpendicular to the floor planks.
From what I can see, it has worked well. Of course, it is cluttered with quite a few benches and so on.
If you still want a groove, maybe a biscuit joiner and biscuits could be an alternative?
I installed my floor in the workshop (also floating on a concrete slab) with loose boards, staggered seams, and perpendicular to the floor planks.
From what I can see, it has worked well. Of course, it is cluttered with quite a few benches and so on.
If you still want a groove, maybe a biscuit joiner and biscuits could be an alternative?
There is a risk of cosmetic damage if the subfloor is not joined together. When the floor installer, who has laid hundreds of such floors, says so, I don't argue against it. I don't have a laminate router, but I was considering using the regular router, though I need a good router bit.N Nybyggarn said:
OK, could any of these at Toolab be something?
I could only find with 12mm depth but maybe that's enough?
I have made loose tongues on long floorboards (about 5.5 meters) once but thought it was difficult to get a good fit, easy for them to chip and hard to press them together. But it might be easier with short plywood sheets.
I could only find with 12mm depth but maybe that's enough?
I have made loose tongues on long floorboards (about 5.5 meters) once but thought it was difficult to get a good fit, easy for them to chip and hard to press them together. But it might be easier with short plywood sheets.